Jump to content
HybridZ

Dat73z

Members
  • Posts

    793
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Dat73z last won the day on December 8

Dat73z had the most liked content!

Profile Information

  • Location
    CA

Recent Profile Visitors

6694 profile views

Dat73z's Achievements

Proficient

Proficient (10/14)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Posting Machine Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • Conversation Starter Rare
  • First Post Rare

Recent Badges

12

Reputation

  1. Last night I mostly re-laid out everything on the firewall, close enough to finish fabricating the rest of the lines at least. Sort of tempted to start welding up the unused holes in the engine bay and shave things a bit, but I know that will turn into a major project so saving it for when I repaint the entire car someday. It'll also be interesting to see how the bulkhead heater fittings I put in for the vintage air will look with the OE hoses, but won't get that full view until the engine is back in.
  2. Last weekend my buddy came over and we pulled the motor as it made sense with all of the work going on. Everything only took about an hour and honestly I think we spent more time eating at a buffet and catching up afterwards 😂 Everything is easily accessible now so the plan is to finish up the hardline work on the chassis + setting up all of the new turbo and manifold(s) on the engine stand. This past couple of evenings I've been bouncing between projects, but for the turbo rebuild redoing the fuel system to -8AN feed and -10AN return SS hardlines. The physical dimensions of all the components are much larger, but through careful fabrication I'm able to mostly reuse the mounting locations from the prior setup limiting any new holes. Earlier on the fall I also had new -8AN and -10AN hardline clamps machined for the tunnel so later this week I'll start fabricating up the new lines into the previous mounting locations with the new clamps and around the new CD00A transmission which occupies a lot more tunnel space. SS hardlines, especially in large diameters are always challenging for me but I think the end result is worth it. This will also likely be the last fuel system I put into the car because I can't see a scenario where I'll need larger than -10AN and -8AN with 450 pump(s) on a L series.
  3. This winter I've been making good progress on various aspects the build, but most importantly getting back into the groove of one mini project per day. Tonight I diassembled the frontend of the car to revisit the cooler packaging. In the last iteration of the build I had intentionally left enough room to mount a half-size AC condenser, which are popular for other turbo cars such as evo's running large forward facing turbos. The packaging is extremely tight as I wanted to retain the hood springs while running a large oil cooler and condenser behind the fmic. I also left enough room for the option to run a 2" thicker core fmic in the future. I did have to mount some new PIAA horns as the OEM units would not fit. After some measuring, the plan this week is to SS hardline the oil cooler from the bulkhead fittings as although everything is functional I've never been quite happy with the SS braided hose. At the time I also didn't have the 10AN SS hardline bending tools and materials which I now have. Perhaps this will allow me to bring the oil cooler further to the pass side and give the condenser a bit more room as well.
  4. Look forward to your updates @Derek. I'm hoping to get to my VTS install early next year once I get some adapters machined for my in-tank surge tank. I agree all of the vents on the later 240z tanks makes a difference. I recall when I was deleting vents many years ago on my 1973, I ran into issues where I actually could not pump more than 1/2-2/3rds of a tank due to trapped air which was a major nuisance. So I went back to all OEM vents and the issue went away.
  5. Trust me when I say the heat from the turbo hot side effectively into your brake master cylinder and reservoirs even with a heat shield is not a good idea. Cruiser or not, it is dangerously close just from a heat perspective let alone movement of the driveline and even firewall/bmc from actually using the brakes making all of this worse. I'm not sure why you are opposed to simply cutting a flange you have already modified before and rewelding it to properly clear everything when you are willing to cut open the shock tower and elaborately plate it back in. Good luck
  6. This winter I've been rebuilding the interior of my car. One item I could not find any information on at all were the mounting dimensions of the RS Mach Steering wheel. I believe in period this was a competition option, with the thicker wheel material and 380mm diameter often seen on the s30 and Hako Skylines. It seems the RS Mach wheel mounts more like the JDM s30 wheel compared to the deeper dish of the USDM wheel. Potentially I may machine a spacer to move the wheel further out but will see when I get everything back together. I know for the JDM s30 wheels it is popular to modify the turn signal stalk to account for the difference in wheel depth. I am also around 6' tall so also likely dimensionally different than the typical JDM person in period. Hopefully this helps someone. There is plenty of information out there for Checkman, Nardi, JDM s30 types, etc. types but nothing on this item.
  7. @Derek I'm planning to run 2 vents. The fuel filler vent to the evap tank near the rear shock tower, which then goes to a one way valve and vents back into the rear fenderwell (I'll likely plumb in a charcoal canister for fumes). The second vent is on top of the tank on the fuel pump plate, also feeding back into the evap tank. Are you still having fuel tank backpressure issues?
  8. Not knocking your work, but what was the rationale behind cutting your shock tower in half which is a major structural component of your car versus reworking the Jpipe which can easily be modified or re-fabricated? It looks like even after severing the shock tower, your Jpipe still puts your turbine hot side into the brake master cylinder which has already been ground down? After looking through your build thread I see you modified the bolt-on jpipe from an old turbo kit. The chassis has already been cut but I would advise you remake or modify the jpipe to fit the turbo properly away from your brake system. You may be able to reuse your modified jpipe by simply changing the angle on either flange.
  9. Thanks @calZ. Big fan of your work.
  10. Reserving post 2 Also have a bunch more pictures and videos to upload. Not sure why but I keep getting upload errors so perhaps I'll focus on the written aspects first.
  11. Misc.: Triple carb idle up solution Set a bunch of placeholders going to keep this post as a catch all. Open to any suggestions on what else I should add as I am working on this through the winter.
  12. Wiring: Write this up later out of time today.
  13. Refrigerant Charge and Service: Write this up later out of time today.
  14. Line Branches and Dryer: Write this up later out of time today.
×
×
  • Create New...