Dat73z

Just a quick update I got the steering coupler re-painted. Looking it over, the ujoint seems ok but maybe I should replace it at some point since everything else is new (it's the later staked type). I'm going to focus on cleaning up my workspace as it would probably be good to let things continue curing out, but I think it's mostly just reassembly from here.

Likewise I'm not pushing it 11/10 on the streets in my typical driving but I am considering maybe putting a OE ZG or early 240 rear bar on but we'll see once I get the new setup dialed in. I actually sold 2 former track toys this past few months so maybe the Z will get some more use if I don't end up getting another fun/daily car...getting tired of having multiple projects. That's some good points on the trans mount. I couldn't find my other OE mount but I seem to recall I dinged my t3 crossmember due to trans movement under high load/boost but otherwise it felt like a good match with the milkfab poly engine mounts which basically cut the engine rotation down to 0 and there was minimal cabin noise. The poly trans mount is too harsh and there was basically 0 movement of anything with a lot of gear noise being transmitted to the cabin. Maybe I'll try filling the OE trans mount with window weld or find some lower durometer inserts for the poly trans mount. It would be interesting to set up a camera and see what direction(s) things are moving.

More parts trickling in. I'm going back to the OE trans mount for now. For some reason I seem to recall the moulding was a lot beefier, where this new OE mount the moulding seems super thin. I'll need to do some digging to find the OE mount I was using before and compare.

Finally caught up on measurements. This AM I got my rear stubs painted in under the solar eclipse...I was wondering why it was so dark out 😂 I think I'll let these cure out over the week while I address other brake system items.

@Zetsaz it's the OE front bar powdercoated with poly bushings and endlinks. I had considered bigger sway bars but they seemed more trouble than they're worth. I made AL spacers for a rear bar in the past which could likely help in your situation, just get some flat plate and drill some holes

Just a quick update got the rear 280z stub axles stripped tonight and ready for paint tomorrow. More parts trickling in this next week but making steady progress, trying to do 1 thing per day again against the daily schedule. Some house renovation projects as well in the background and maybe the garage next, remove all the cabinets from the 60s and redo the floors and walls. I'd love to open the ceiling and install a lift.

Last week I modified the 280z rear stub axles for the ZCG stoptech brake kit. The cast nubs need to be ground down to clear the machined AL rotor top hat, an issue not present with the cast rotors from the t3 wilwood brake kit. The stub axles material is extremely hard. Later this week time permitting I will paint them and continue the suspension refresh/reassembly.

Some additional SK/OER reference pictures as there isn't much information on these carbs out there especially since they're boost friendly. Comparing the vintage SK 50mm bodies to the newer production OERs. It is apparent the vintage castings are of higher quality also with more attention paid to machining steps. For example on the newer OERs the barrels just have an abrupt step to the aux venturi whereas the vintage bodies have a nice chamfer machined in. This attention to detail carries throughout, I would assume due to cost cutting. If you have the vintage bodies in good shape/configuration (chokeless) it would be worth restoring them over the new production.

Some reference pictures of the most common leak points I've found on dcoe type carbs when boosting. The aux vent and main vent are sealed with special hardware, cap screws and fiber washers. The pump adjustment and pilot screws are sealed with cup washers and orings. Depending on the carb any through holes need to be plugged with set screws and/or sealant. Finally any pin locations from machining should be covered with epoxy.

This evening I started in on boost prepping the 50mm carbs. I'm really behind on this project but I'm slowly reeling it in.

Almost done for the weekend, got the full ZCG setup about wrapped up on the front. Just need to get the brake lines reattached and check for clearances against the tires. The rest of the limited time I have will be spent on cleanup and measurements.

Nice change of pace today, got up at my normal time which is way too early and got the new rack situated. I think I need to get back into the routine of putting an hr into the build every AM. Did some measuring as well between the exhaust and new DP and I don't think I'll need to order any more pipe but I'll need to order another vband flange from Vibrant.

An interesting note on the t3 new mfg rack, there are no grease points on either end for service.

@Zetsaz I had the t3 setup before so GC coilovers and Koni yellows. I ran multiple spring rates and configurations including pillow ball top hats. It was a really nice setup for all the years I had it. My buddy who had BCs actually bought my setup because the BCs ride terrible comparatively. The KWs imo are a few steps above the t3 setup and they're compression and rebound adjustable. Tonight I finally had a few mins so I pulled the old rack and prepped the new one along with changing the ball joints at the front with some new moog units. I think I want to repaint the steering shaft but it's supposed to rain tomorrow so we'll see how the weekend goes.

@Zetsaz if you're ever in the bay area give ZCG a call and see if you can try the setup on their shop car. The full package is really impressive tbh from the KWs, Rebello stroker, stoptech brakes etc. Well worth the wait. Rob is a great guy and experienced driver driver. @AydinZ71 thanks still weighing swain versus full inconel shielding again. I think I need to see how the clearances turn out with the cnc manifold first and go from there. This past week or two I've been working a lot but it looks like I finally have some time this weekend to get back to the build. At least a few hours. Hopefully some updates soon.

Thanks @Zetsaz yeah it's been a long time coming, I really liked the feel driving the ZCG shop car over the t3 BBK setup personally with both the 1" and 15/16 MCs I had before. I'm downsizing everything but I think it'll be the right balance for my needs. More parts came in today including the t3 rack and high clearance tie rod ends. I owe a bunch of people measurements at this point to keep things moving forward on some design and machining work so that will be the priority this weekend.

Have a lot going on and I realize my workspace is an absolute mess. It's been a while and there are parts and tools scattered about so I think the strategy here is to clean everything up this next couple of weeks while doing these sidebar projects to get the car sorted.

Parts are still slowly trickling in. My ZCG Stoptech brake kit came in so I can hopefully finish reassembly of the new suspension and brakes. The first test print for the cnc 50 manifold came in as well. I'm really excited for this manifold project, I think it'll be the perfect high clearance dcoe manifold. Fortunately I have both a spare engine on the stand and also a blowthrough s30 to test real world clearances on 😁

@tube80z thank you got it working

Edit: I have decided to keep these

How do I get permission to post in the For Sale section? I am a donating member.

@Sean 83ZXT for my setup, I wanted the highest response setup with a powerband between 3-7k running at 15-21psi (OER/SK carbs can do ~16psi constant and 21+psi intermittent). I had also looked at the g30-770 but the 660 won out for my goals. ATP advised that the newer aero on the G series turbine wheel will flow enough to keep backpressure in check on the large 3.2L up to 7K without choking up but the key is to mate it to the .83 A/R housing. Also noted that on the g30 the 660 comp wheel is the most boost responsive configuration that is capable of providing the right amount of airflow for those required boost levels.

@DuffyMahoney yes the step up will be necessary to clear the turbo and manifold. I assume the HKS v2 surge tank was designed with the s130 in mind as fitting everything into the s30 poses some interesting challenges. Likely the cnc option would be between the Mik short runner and the FET mid, combining the best of both. @rossman after playing with boost adviser and staring at compressor maps for a while I narrowed it down to the g30-660 or 770. After discussing with ATP turbo I went with the g30-660, as it sounded like a good match we'll see how it goes. @AydinZ71 I looked at the g25 too but it seemed too small for the 3.2 8.5:1, perhaps it would be a good match for the l28ET. Post some pictures of the swain coating when you get it back, that sounds pretty sweet. I was considering that this time around but ATP inconel is on the table again as well.

Yeah I'm stoked to get this setup together! I suspect the 0.83ar will spool like the old .63 and provide a lot more. The v1 is really awesome. I wish there was a vintage option that checks all the boxes, but after some news today I may go with a custom billet cnc option. Mikuni length with proper clearance and porting for 50s.

More mockup work with the new turbo setup. It would be pretty sweet if I can run this FET manifold, the clearances are actually pretty good. Perhaps if I machined a bit off the DCOE flange side. The downside to this manifold is it's pretty thin walled, so porting for 50s may require welding. Either way I can already see I will need to cut and weld the inlet on the new G series like I did with the old hybrid turbo.