drift_inertia

As long as it's electric, is SOLELY for powder coat and no foodwill be prepared in it, and has enough space for the parts it is easy to make custom racks and would work fine.

I'm in modesto in nor-cal, If you don't mind driving up I have a clean 260z fron end i'd sell you for $150 o.b.o, clean hood, fenders, headlight buckets, clean oem lower valance corners and blinkers. Lemme know if you wanna see pics

I am parting out a 74 2+2 lemme know if you need anything.

I have a set if your interested, I am located in modesto ca so i'd have to ship. I'll take some pics and mail them to you. I can either sell to you through here or I can put them on my ebay store. My ebay store is www.treasurefromtheattic.com I am not sure what they are worth, what kind of price are you thinking?

the hard shell back makes me believe it is out of a roadster of sorts

I heard he was taken out by the ShAmWoW guy............... o_O

Not true on an N/A car, you need some back pressure in your exhaust system, on a TURBO car you want the minimum amount of backpressure after the turbo for higher hp, but the the exhaust manifold to turbo gives you enough back pressure to keep your motor happy. so N/A needs some backpressure TURBO you want the least backpressure possible after the turbo as possible. at least in all my years thats the way it's been.

before you have the manifold machined flat, you can always lay a flat metal file acrocss the manifold and run it back until you see fresh clean metal to get it flater then it is in an attempt to get it to seal better. I had to do it on both of my intake manifolds because they woerent sealing right.

happy fathers day, today is my first my daughter was born 4/26/09. So I am still a total noob at being a father but it comes pretty naturaly to me which is a definente good thing. have a fun and safe day fella's Matt

Sorry if i described it wrong, my sensor didnt, have threads either. It was an autometer c2 egt gause the probe was about a 1/4 inch? thick of round stock that was bent into a 90 degree, i didnt have the fittings that came with it except for the the piece the sensor slid into. the piece the sensor slid into looked like a nut with a setsrec drilled into the side of it and abou 4 threads at the end. i found a nut that fit the threads and drilled hole in my exhaust spot welded the nut to the exhuast and installed the senor and piece i had. BUT I have also seen people take a drill bit the same size as the sensor,find a nut the right size to drill through and then weld the nut to the exhuast, drill hole through the nut and piping ,insert the sensor and the use a hose clamp to clamp it down by wrapping around the exhaust pipe and sensor. I only have experience with autometer egt's and sensors so i'm not sure if they are all 90 degree bend or not.

lol

its the disclaimer from the betamotorsports "ultralight suspension" in the bench racing section. " This product is meant for educational purposes only. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead is purely coincidental. Void where prohibited. Some assembly required. List each check separately by bank number. Batteries not included. Contents may settle during shipment. Use only as directed. No other warranty expressed or implied. Do not use while operating a motor vehicle or heavy equipment. Postage will be paid by addressee. Subject to CAB approval. This is not an offer to sell securities. Apply only to affected area. May be too intense for some viewers. Do not stamp. Use other side for additional listings. For recreational use only. Do not disturb. All models over 18 years of age. If condition persists, consult your physician. No user-serviceable parts inside. Freshest if eaten before date on carton. Subject to change without notice. Times approximate. Simulated picture. 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It is understood that you have read and agreed with the terms stated in this disclaimer." lol i spent 10 minutes reading that, whoever wrote it must have had alottttt of caffeine that day. amazingly the only repated prt was "slippery when wet " the rest are used only once. lol

the offset seems real shallow if you are planning on running the wheels with no spacer behind them. i have a set of 16x8 f 16x9 r watanabes with 0 offset all the way around and they barely meet the stock lip of my 260. i would get a better offset especially for flares, other then that yes the dimensions will fit

WOW o_O that was an insane crash, i'm glad to see they made it out in tact!

if you truly are boosting 15 psi, then yes your probably are running on the lean side, but being lean doesnt always mean you will detonate. timing, and heat come into play with detonation also. you may just be ( safely lean ) where you haven't started to ping yet. maybe you have really good octane gas in the car or just havent hit a real hot day where you live and you've lucked out to this point. do you know anyone with a spare boost gauge to hook up and see if yours is reading right? 15 psi of boost is hi for stock injectors and stock fpr, with an aftermaarket fpr you may be able to squeeze it out though? just my 2 cents

"IF" I am understanding you right in this post, you are wondering how you stock ecu and electronics are registering and " putting out " 15 psi of boost. Your ecu and electronics dont "put out" any boost period, they just add more fuel, timing advance/retard, etc. Your boost should be regulated by your wastegate and boost controller, if you are using a mechanical boost controller ( simple turnable valve ) or an electronic boost control, it simply opens or closes a valve aloowing more or less vacuum to the turbo's wastegate diaphragm. the wastegate controls how much positive pressure (boost) is actually directed into the motor versus being sent into the exhaust stream. It sounds like your wastegate may be he issue. If it was me i would use a vacuum pump to check the wastegate and make sure it is functioning properly and isn't clogged and the seal is still good. that would cause a variation in what you SHOULD be boosting versus what you ARE boosting. Also as Skib pointed out, all turbo's have a certain effeciency range where the compresser and housing trim's and a/r 's will work best and produce clean boost (with highly dense charge air), compared to producing hot (less dense air) ineffeciant boost. clean boost ='s more tightly packed air molecules ='s more power at less boost and easier to compensate for. dirty boost ='s hot loose packed molecules, very minimal if any power gains, harder to compensatse for due to excess heat . this may have turned to rambling but i know there is some usefull info in it, hope it helps a little, Matt p.s. if you want to drive your car safely while you work out the problem just drop your boost with your controller 2 or 3 pounds and then the max you SHOULD hit would be ner your desired 12 pounds.

wow first time i've ever seen that kit. it really has a starion/conquest look to it.

I just went from the home page and clicked on forums, it then proceeded to take me to a really weird layout that only had like 7 forums, a calender at the bottom right corner, favorite picture and etc? is that normal or did the site just mess up??

it looks just like my valve cover, I painted it with Harley-Davidson crinkle engine paint, you can get it at any harley dealer. Its very tough and looks fantastic. I also thought of doing the nissan cima headlights, i seen them on n mr2 looked very nice.

just find a nut that fits the sensor thread drill a hole and tack weld the nut to your exhaust pipe?? it worked on an fc3s i used to own

I agree but I'll shut up now since I appear to be a hole for myself lol

It's not just in the drift world where I have seen this. I have also seen it on Auto-X aand roadrace cars. As far as the positives and negatives of it I am unsure, all the I personally know about it is that company's such as J.I.C and Tein have a few of there competition cars setup that way and they have way more knowledge and money to spend on setup, researc and suspension then I ever will. I just use camber plates and bump steer reducers on my cars just a normal setup.

actually they are mounted in a functional way, ALOT of drifters and racers mount them that way if you research on the net it IS so you can adjust slight camber AND caster changes. It is getting WAY more popular these day and you will start seeing more and more.

all the CF I personally have ever drilled I had to tape where i wanted to drill and first drill a smaill pilot then use the size bit you want the hole to be to prevent cracking or chipping the surrounding resin.

Yeah it's the same, actually fitting cf is usually easier because you cant really do bodywork on it so a quality company will get the mold and cf part as near perfect as possible.