hogie

They will refund you the return shipping. At least they did on mine....I had the exact same problem.

I checked on pathfinders on that list and 505 95's met the same fate as mine... On top of that so did one 2007 pathfinder. How could they not unload that for better than $4500

What a peice of work, stealing from everyone under the son and cruel to animals. I am just suprised that he actually had any engines on hand.

I don't think you need any sort of points. I was able to view it right after I signed up.

I have been putting in a fence at my house lately so havent had much time to do any updates. Essentially the only real work I have done on the car lately is wiring. Luckily that seems to be working at least. I finally got a chance to pull out the angle iron and see what is left of the frame rails. Honestly the inside edge is not anywhere near as bad as I feared. Also the area around the frame double is solid. Here is what we are left with on the drivers side. I need to get a couple more jack stands before i drop the other side down. Judging by the rust on the angle Iron I wonder if it was actually driven with that as a repair for awhile?

I can't handle waiting for BBC to start broadcasting the new season in the US! Why do we have to be so behind...I may have to hit the torrents up again.

My brother has nothing and yet managed to get sued for borrowing a car with no insurance and rear ending a lexus. I wouldn't consider you safe at all. In indiana you would at least lose your license 6 months and get a hefty fine.

I had that top one! I wonder if I still do somewhere....I certainly didnt remember it was a 240z though

I found review on JP magazine...they mentioned that the light isnt perfect because of the housing. apparently the design of the bulbs is supposed to help counteract that fact. http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/electrical/154_0901_jeep_hid_headlight_install/index.html

While these don't have the projector lenses they are much cheaper than alot of the kits that have shown up on the board before. They are listed as being Jeep specific, but I think a 7 inch lamp is pretty well a 7 inch lamp. http://www.electrosport.com/products/product-detail-2353.php http://www.electrosport.com/products/product-detail-2317.php Heck, it could be garbage, but for 299-399 it sure looks better than the big "nuclear nipples" Has anyone heard of this company?

I just don't think they are near as good looking as the S30's. Though I would love to have the turbo engine for my 72!

Is there anything that can be done through Ebay as well since he has about 90 differant store names on there?

This is pretty similar to my cracked out frame, though not as bad. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=149446

I still have this and the wiring to sort through before it is drivable. For some odd reason I started at the back of the car and worked forward. Everything from the middle back is in great condition now.

Unfortunatley, I dont have a factory style scissor jack...my luck I would find something else filled with foam the hard way! That frame rail looks a bit over built!

I can weld, maybe not the best, but I think good enough to fix this. As far as yanking out the angle iron that is already there I am not sure that would be a good idea. My jackstands are underneath it for one and without it my engine would fall out...on the passenger side it looks like the section just above the crossmember rotted away on either side of that area is relatively solid. From looking inside the frame I can see most of the problems on the inside edge and they are not as severe or at least don't appear to be. Is it safe to move my jackstands to just behind the tension rod arms? I would be more comfortable yanking out the peice that is in there now if so. Thanks

This was supposedly done professionally. I finally got around to checking out the undercoating on the front frame rails. After I dug around a bit I found some pop riveted plates. After popping those off I found they filled the holes with great stuff. On the inside edge of the frame rails is a big peice of angle iron bolted through at the engine cradle, sway bars, and at the back. After pulling out the foam it looks like the inside edge of the frame is relatively sound. Also, ahead of and behind the hole feels quite solid. If I can weld the inside frame rails to the angle iron and the plate the outside with 1/8 inch steal would this be an acceptable fix? I am not looking the replace these rails unless I have too. I have heard that bigdog has front frame rails, but all I have seen is the under floor and rear sections. Please check out these pics and let me know what you think. This is the angle iron reinforcing the rails. http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z82/wangchung_01/240z/240z%20front%20frame%20rails/DSCF3968.jpg[/img

Arne (from ClassicZcars) figured out the problem. Whoever painted/powdercoated the shaft put it on extremely heavy and that wouldn't let the shaft go much past the seal. After about 4 soakings in paint remover the driveshaft slides right in. It looks like the collar on the shaft slides into the collar at the end of the transmission. Is it possible to put the drive shaft in too far? I know on my old hardbody that could cause problems. THanks

Please let me know if anything looks out of place in these pics. The splines on the shaft look like they are in good shape, but don't fully engage. Even after a good greasing. I am quite sure the diff is mounted properly as well as the engine. The fan is darn near touching the radiator so there is no way for it to move any further forward. I thought I read that there was supposed to be a tiny F on the diff mount, but I dont see that either. Thanks

I was able to call MSA earlier today and their driveshaft is right at 30 inches. I guess that solves one thing, my shaft isnt too long (by much)! However, now I just need to find out why the splines wont engage fully and what I need to do to get it into the space required. It could be that my engine tranny is too far back or I guess the diff could be too far forward somehow. THanks

If you could measure that it would be great. On a side note I checked to see if the mustache bar was flipped, but it appears to be going the right direction. Everything on the axle is bolted tight, and the motor appears to be in the proper place. Thanks

I am getting closer to finishing up my car and I tried to put in the drive shaft tonight. Long story short is the drive shaft appears to be way too long. I have about 25.5 inches between the flange at the axle and the seal at the back of the transmission. However, the drive shaft I have is 29.5 inches long altogether and about 27 1/4 inches to the collar at the front. Also the splines don't seem like they want to engage all the way (though the flanged ends match perfect). How long should the drive shaft be for a 72 240 with a 4 spd? I have found a bunch of threads, but none with a proper length. That or they were for v8 swaps....yes I know this is hybridz Thanks

nice, where did you get the switches?

That looks better than I was expecting...good job on bringing the pics back to life.

Nope, but porno is at least tittilating! errr, pun intended