Greeko

I would like to put in my 2 cents here. I went with a 1JZ because I got the ENTIRE swap for 2400 us currency. Thats 1jz gte non vvti, w58 etc. I got it through a local shop in the vancouver, bc area who bought it from an importer. Reason why I did this was for warranty purpose. THe shop has a good reputation and was very easy to deal with! In hindsight..I should have ponied up the extra $1000 for the 2JZ swap...but Its in the car an running ludicrously well! ECM: I scrapped the stock toyota control because of a couple reasons: Plastic connectors were worn and brittle; aging wiring harness, custom cutting and splicing would be needed Control was overcomplicated from the factory (its got some nice features but I didn't need them for what I wanted) Chipping the stock computer is difficult; i did not want band aid piggy back control So I went with a super easy to use/start Microtech EFI. I fabricated a brand new harness custom to the Datsun engine bay, got a used ecm and was all in for $1200. The car starts, idles and runs marvelously with GOBS of power! Radiator I went with Champion Radiators 3 row for $200...It is THICK, bolts right up to factory mounts and uses toyota factory hoses with NO issues!!! I am super happy with it http://www.championradiators.com/Datsun-280z-radiator-1975-1978 Mounts I also went with CX racing for mounts. It was cheap, it works and have no issues Intercooler I went with CX racing again for this. I got their intercooler kit with piping..It fits like a glove! Super happy with this product for the value! Just my experience... I am just over the border if you want to take a look at what I did. Its running at the moment but the interior is in 1 million pieces lol

here is some decent reading. http://www.d-series.org/forums/forced-induction/120686-holset-turbo-specs-hy-hx-h1c-wh1c-h1e-wh1e.html It seems like the hx35w may be able to just support what you like. Nice to see a fellow vancouver tuner!

Which model spoiler is this ? Good to see a manufacturer willing to stand behind their product!

That would be a pain to integrate!

I scrapped the toyota Ecu and went with Microtech...best money i ever spent!!! Started up right away! The cracked coil packs will cause shuddering and knocking ...you should stil be able to rev it. Does it struggle? Idle smooth, revs smooth to 2200? have you checked the voltage signal going to the TPS? one wire should be voltage, one reference and the other signal

Gosh darn thats quite the dilemna. There are a lot of choices for swaps... Just across the border you can get a 1j or 2z engine for 1500-2000. What did you end up deciding?

Really, worked fine for me!

I would Epoxy some fasteners to the hood so you have some adjustment in the latch.

I had a b18c CRX back in the day and I now have a 1978 Datsun 280z... The crx was fast if I could get traction but my Datsun is much much faster!!! I did however pull out the stock L28 because my horsepower goals for a NA L28 would cost me $10000 in rebello parts, machining and bits/pieces. I opted out for a $4000 fix. A 1JZ with standalone management. I now run 338 hp at the wheels at 12 psi and she is a BLAST to drive. If you want to stay with the stock L28..maybe do a turbo option? Maybe thing about a 280zx turbo swap?... there are a couple for sale on the forums... Good luck

In addition if someone has a parts Number list to help track down some of these bushings for my 1978 Datsun 280z I would appreciate it.

Hey guys, I have been looking for a set of replacement bushings and do not want to go the Poly Route. Has anyone found a supplier that carries a decent set of bushings? Mainly LCA. Mustache bar. Thanks in advance

The connectors are pretty easy to decipher. Just look at the pinouts on the drawing and look at the connectors, a bunch of them have non terminated pins, I am attaching a commented PDF that helps you with alternator terminations, starter terminations etc etc. I hope it helps. I was going through my notes a bit 78_280Z_wiring_commented.pdf

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Hey man, I just finished up my 1jz 280z. You need to use engine harness c1,c2,c3,c4 and c9 with your JZ swap. You integrate these wires/connectors to the alternator, starter, headlights and a couple random items underneath the engine bay. Depending on what you use for ECM you will have to splice and integrate the original harness into the new.

I am having incredible difficulty finding wider wheels for my Datsun. I was looking for 17x9/10 or 18x9/10 wheels. Everything I find online has incredibly bad offsets and would require wide spacers. Let me know what you have. Regards,

Thanks man, that helped me out! I will be ordering that bad boy!!

Very nice attention to detail. I wish I had the time to do what you are doing here.

Not those no, the rubber stoppers in the corner of the door below the door latch

I am interested as well. Let me know when they come up! Regards,

Taking about the door stops. I dont need sill plates..I should get pictures up

Hello everyone, I picked up a project car and now its nearing completion. I need some interior panels that were missing from the original owner. Hope you guys could help me out 1) Gas tank sender cover ( its the metal circular cover that goes in the back hatch area) 2) Tail Gate Trim ( its a rectangular plastic cover that covers the metal part of the Hatch) 3) Door Stops (the pieces in the bottom corner that act as a stop) 4) Arm Rest chrome cover ( the chrome part that covers the end of the arm rest that bolts to the door) Thanks in advance, Niko

I just finished my 1978 Datsun 1jz 280z swap. She is purring like a kitten. Running 335hp at the wheels with 12 psi. Mechanical is done, just requires paint. I am just over the border from you in Vancouver, I did pick up the car originally from Everett area. It was a california car. Message me if you are interested.

Have you reached out to them? Their site says they are satisfaction guaranteed.... I mean, it looks pretty good, just could have used another hour or so of prep and finishing... not a HUGE deal... Maybe he will give you a break on your next order or possibly throw in free shipping because of it...

Wow, Sooo much work in the details! I was lazy and just slapped in a 1JZ lol

That works really well for cleaning but make sure you put some sealer over the metal... Once you have stripped the coatings then they will corrode super quick.. If you have metal contact lubricant or even WD-40 (its a miracle spray) will work well to keep things nice, clean and operating well from my own experiences.