datsunlover

Heh.. I find coin-op car washs are also good for these kind of things.. I've done brakes, exhast, stereo instals, rads, ect. When you're done, pop a few bucks in, wash the car, and the floor/crap/oil/whatever fell of as you were woking away. And the 'my car broke down' excuse works great. I to have had the urge to.. er, kill someone like that.. I once got in trouble because I had TWO vehicles. Yah.. THEN, I almost got evicted when I changed th motor in one (Jeep J10...) So I threw a for sale sign on the Jeep, and the next week did brakes on my 200sx... Land lord came over and started freaking out... so heres what I told the land lord: "If I don't fix the brakes on this car, I can't get to work. If I don't go to work, I don't get paid and won't have rent for you next week. And I'm not trying to be a dick, but it's the end of october and you CAN'T legaly kick me out. Not to mention I gave you first and last rent when I moved in, and you never mentioned anything about 'no working on cars' here. Look across the road; it's a low income residential area, and EVRY house has a vehicle or two being worked on. I clean up my mess, and always pay my rent on time.. unlike half the people in this building." He grumbled and walked away.. Dink... Oh yes, when I left that plave I to left oil spots, and a few tires.. rear diff.. suspension arms/struts from the 200sx.. Figures, I could use that diff NOW...

I agree.. I cut a 'relief hole' in the firewall of my 85 RX7 to fit the chevy dizzy.. and I regreted it. Looked like a$$. Is it possible to maybe move the whole motor forward an inch or two? (plates or something on the engin mounts) although that would make more work as you have a trany/transfer case/driveshaft to move forward to then.. crap..

Yotas can be very good vehicles.. reliable, good on fuel, ect... but I would stay away from that one.. with cash damage, it's a parts car at best.. at worst, crush it into a cube. From what you describe, the car took the impact just like it was designed to: It crumpled and bent. I wouldn't feel safe drving around in it evryday... If it was a high dollar car (say.. Volvo, BMW, Porsche, ect) IMO it'd be worth FIXING and then driving.. but corrolas are like butholes... they're evrywhere. I'd look around some more for a daily driver..

I believe the stock Z speakers are 5.25" and yes, they will likely be toast. I didn't even replace them as I felt the positioning is.. well, horrible for decent sound in a Z.. I have two 6X9's sitting right behind the seats, pointing up and it work better, but I'm trying to figure out a better way of getting decent sound... I'll probly build a panel in front of the rear light covers, and fire the speakers forward.

Personally I'd go for something newer than the ZX.. I had 3 of those cars, and evry one of them was a cold ride... went through several blower motors too.. I agree the tracker blower will likely be quite powerfull compared to the Z.. but I've found newer hondas to be quite good as well.

I say the ECU turning off when you try to start the car is the problem. From acc through start postitions (on the key) I think there should be power to the ECU, and I'm 99% sure BOTH lights should be on.

Funny.. with all the warning lables these days.. I'm suprised they havn't started putting them in SUV's "This vehicle does not make you invincible" or "Warning: will not stop any better on show/ice with 4 wheel drive engaged" I mean really..

Well, next week when the motor comes out, he's gona come over with a depth mic and check things out.. My motor was rebuilt once already (10+years ago) so I have no clue what's been done to it, or what's in it.. and the head I'm working with has ALSO been rebuilt once, so we'll have to crunch some numbers to see where it ends up.. I could get the head milled to bump C/R I supose, but I don't really wana take more than about .030 off the head..(big cam tower shims, possibe timing chain issues..) I don't know what (if any) has been decked off the block either, so I'll have to wait to see..

Along with the brake upgrades, I'd say get some 'sloted mags' and decent tires on it. (slots would keep the 'look' original, but be wider/lighter than stock stelies and caps) If you're planing on runing high speed's on the highway, I'd think about getting a front air dam as well. Motor wise, I'd look for a good running 280zx turbo w/5 speed and drop the whole driveline/electrical in.. big IC, some kind of boost control (manual is cheep..) bigger down pipe and exhast, and you should be ready to rock.. You may want to upgrade the rear end to an R200 however (posibly with a limited slip) ... dono how long the R180 peg leg will hold out with the turbo motor pounding it..

Welcome to the forum, and I'll be the first to tell you; Search! Although it seams the search may not be working properly.. or posts are missing as of late.. Anyway, I havn't done the mod, but there is extencive info somewhere on this site on swaping a (I think) 300zx Mass Air Sensor in place of the 'flapometer' AFM. A few folks have done it here as far as I know, and it works well from what I've heard. Not a drop in, but with a little electrical re-wiring it's quite posible.

Yah, I'd crank it back up a bit. I have mine set at about 30*. Any more, and I found I'd get 'run-on' when I shut in down. It would sort itself out afer a few seconds, but it was anoying to shut off my car and sit there for a sec while it went "cha CHG cah CHG.. pop." Part of my problem (I think) was a slightly bent dizzy shaft though, so it would 'bounce around' a bit. and I never had the carbs synced properly, so that could have been doing weird things..

I'm gona try to get over to my builders place tomorrow and see if he got pricing on my bottom end gaskets/bearings/ect, (I have to drop some cash off too so he will start the real work..) and I'll talk to him about the head. I'm sure he's already looked at it and decided what has to be done. I'll mention the sharp edges though.. He ussualy builds performance stuff, rather than just 'basic rebuild' engines.. This guy seams REALY interested in doing the head too..his words were; "A really interesting piece.. different and unique..I'd like to see you wooping stangs with it.." He said it looks like nissan did their homwork on the head design too.. he was suprised that it's from a 75.. and figures it sould make good power with the cam/better breathing. I'm getting excited already...

Eh! Where ya been man? I was JUST thinkng about getting a hold of you sometime...

I don't run my vacume advance, and havn't had any problems. Well, I DID have similar issues at first, but playing with the carb's and advance fixed it. By advance I mean just setting LOTS of intial advance by turning the dizzy. I had an idle around 950-1050 rpm, and it was a bit hard to crank on startup, but nothing major.. always satarted, and was very quick to rev whenever I taped the throttle to match revs/take off.

Well I'm still not sure what I have for pistons (have yet to pull the motor.. soon..) but it is stapmed N24 onthe drivers side of the block.. I'm assuming it has dished pistons.. It's been rebuilt (10+ years ago) already, so I have no idea what my piston hight/ect is going to be, but in the end, I'm going to be shooting for close to a 10:1 CR. As for what I want out of the car, well.. it's a toy. I'm not much for 1/4 mile racing.. I'll probly run it a few times, just to see what it'll do.. But mostly, I just rip around town.. drive double the posted speed limit on ocasion down curvy/hilly back roads, and sometimes put a Civic in its place.. (Although one civic put ME to shame last year.. ) I'd like to get into autox maybe, but mainly it's a street car. I don't mind a bit of a rough idle/ride or bad gas mileage so much.. it IS after all a 30 year old carb'd sports car.. They're suposed to act up a bit.. it's part of the fun! I'd like it to be a quick as it looks though.. getting spanked by 4cyl ricers sucks. I'll hopefully be getting the engin torn down next week, and I'll have my friend come over and take a look at it. Then we'll know what I'm dealing with, and can go from there. He's gona start on the head work, but doesn't wana take too much off it untill he knows what kind of 'room' he's got to work with.

Link no worky for me...

Eh? SAME tranny in the V6 trucks? Do you know if the ratios are simmilar or did they change between the truck and.. other vehicles they used those 5 gears in? Hmm...

True.. my bad.. I ment to say "almost like an interference fit" and 'feel' tight as you spin them on. Sorry for bad info there... And on the tap extractors.. I've never had one work very well. Ussualy just end up trashing it, or breaking it off; so now you have a tap AND pieces of extractor to drill out. I've used needle nose pliers quite a bit, or if there's enough sticking out, a good pair of vice grips works sometimes.

I am aware of a whole TT engne/tranny/harness combo (no ECU) for $2000 canadian..

What you are describing sounds like a frined of mines old s10.. well, his fathers truck.. Started making that noise, and all they could come up with (after going through simmilar troubleshooting stuff) was the motor was 'tired' and possibly a main bearing was starting to let go. The thing was burning oil as well, so they got rid of it.. got $500 or something as a trade in on a 99 cavileir. IIRC, it blew up shortly after.. wow was that used car dealer pissed off..

Well I'm a cheep a$$ and didn't wana spend $200 on bushings either.. so I built my own. Boat trailer rollers work really well, as do hockey pucks. Turn them down, drill them out bigger, cut in pieces, whatever you need. I just finished puting the rear suspension back in my 280z.. did the inner bushings on the suspension (outer were ok) the bump stops in the struts, and all the mustach bar rubbers. $25 and an hour of my time to make them. Mind you I work in a machine shop and have access to equipment.. if you don't this may be difficult for you..

Yah, I forgot about the villager/Quest vans.. May be an option. Have you looked at any older V6 maximas? They are front wheel drive layout, and may have ANOTHER style.. (I'm not sure though..) The V6 is fit in there quite tightly from what I've seen...was looking at one a few years ago.. it may even have a better flowing intake..

That is kinda cool.. I can see that in a dune buggy, or something.. be a mess of wires out the back of it though! Or for a custom dash board..(not nessacarily a Z..) one single guage on the stearing column or behind sunk in, evrything else smooth.. pretty slick.. although I'd prefer a volt/amm guage in there rather than the oil temp...