datsunlover

Heh.. Move Over Pontiacs Are Racing

Yup, the farmers I've met are ALL like that. Bare minimum, patch it up, just make it work. It's amazing how long most old farm equipment will actually hold up to this kind of repair.. hell, I've see automotive stuff abused and still running, but the farm stuff allways blows me away.. We 'fixed' an old shaft of some sort (something that got towed behind a tractor to till I guess.. ?) and when it cam in, it was so worn that don't know how it was still spining at all.. The 'bearing' surface was about .050" smaller than it should have been, and wasn't even concentric to the rest of the shaft anymore! Some welding and a quick turning 'tune up' and it was good enough. If this shop does a lot of this kind of stuff, the crank from your Z probly looks to be in near mint shape to them.. having said that, I would look around for another shop to regrind it for you.. Anyone can use a micrometer (AKA; Mic) but if they are used to doing stuf "eh.. close enough.. ", that isn't really good enough for your needs.. Hell, if you don't have a good feel for it, a mic can read WAY off anyway.. and that 2-5 thousanths of mis-read diameter could mean a quick death for your engine..

Yah, look like the VB metal flares, but they've been blended and maybe modified a little.. I don't know if I like it.. maybe it's just the color though.

Actually, my 280 did something before starting.. the pump would come on (and run continuously..) and there were 5-6 'clicks' from the engine bay.. not sure if this was normal though, as it had a failing FI system.

Yah, I'll second the 80's 200sx.. I had an 85 that I bought for $500, and drove the hell out of for 2.5 years. Then I sold it to a guy for $300, and he wrecked it in a high speed chase! Good little cars...

I'm sure there has been some mis-interpretation, purple monkey dishwasher.. (anyone a Simpsons fan?) but still, it sounds like something govenrment would do.. I'm in a training/aprenticship program and should be recieving benifits (which are pathetic; 55% of my gross earnings from the last 8 weeks of work before the course start, AND it's taxed) but I'm 4 weeks into the course, and have yet to see any money. I am lumped in with the rest of the people in the system (IE; People that are not working due to lay off, seasonal, or just plain lost their job..) so therefore I may have to wait 6 or more weeks.. The course is only 8 weeks long!!!! I was told it would be 'accelerated, because it is trade training.. 2-3 weeks..' but it would apear not.. Maybe I'm just bitter, but government systems have a way of FU$&(NG people under the pretense of 'helping them' and there is never anything you can do about it.. I just heard about a new by-law here, that anyone who has a sexual assult, or assult charge on their record (even if it is 40 years old!) will have their drivers licence revoked. (Hmm. maybe just the taxi licence? But even that is still retarded...) There was a thing on the news last night about a local cab company; The owner has lost his licence to operate a taxi co., and over HALF of his drivers no longer have a licence because of this. Most of them are 40-50 years old, and their charges are from when they were 16-18.. one was an assult on an officer, and he served 6 months in prison for it.. 40 years later, it's biting him in the arse. I find it totaly absurd, but to government, things like this make sence..

Hmm.. I gap mine a bit bigger, .035-.040 but of you're burning oil, that might be a sign the engine is just tired.. does it puff a lot of blue smoke, or just a bit on startup? Worst case, I guess it could be a burnt exhast valve causing power to fall off.. but.. is this problem apearing only after changing the plugs? (did it do it before?) I remember when I had my 85 crx I had the strangest thing happen; I changed the plugs, and it fired up but it had lost a lot of power.. the higher I reved it, the worse it got. So I put the old junk looking plugs back it, and it ran good! wtf? So I checked the old ones, and re-gaped the new plugs to match (went bigger.. IE; if it was .032, I went to .038/.040) and it was like night and day.. the thing had plenty of power, and wound out to redline..

Heh.. I noticed it to, but didn't wana say anything.. if you guys had seen MY car at that point.. Ahhhh!!!

Just a random thought.. My 93 King cab is an auto, and iirc the 3.0 engine is basicaly the same as your 300zx (block I mean) so in theory, could you not pick up a cheep used truck tranny? I drove mine for the last 3 years (quite hard sometimes..) and it NEVER gave me trouble.. Shifts smooth, but there's a 'switch' of some sort that lets it rev out and shift harder under WOT (there is a togle on the dash to engage it whenever you want, but it will turn on by itself under sudden throtle application.. goes right to red line and feels like a manual shift when it kicks into the next gear).. kinda cool really.. The write up in the owners manual actually says it it intended for "towing/hauling loads on steep grades, or 'spirited' driving"

My first guess would be the timing needs adjustment, or the distributor cap/rotor have to be replaced.. Just curious, what plugs did you put in, and what was the gap set to?

I think most of it will work, but the hatch area plastics may differ. I think the tail light covers/panel changed, and the trim pieces in the rear window pillars (does your 74 have one or two lift suports?) may be difrent, but will probly work..

Cool... but I hope you like sanding body filler.. Looking good man!

I think it will bolt up fine.. although I doubt it will last to long behind the turbo motor.. and I think the gearing will be quite wrong for a turbo motor.

The second one looks like mine when I got it.. From what I could tell, it was a repair job from years ago. To me, it looks like the whole quarter panel may have been replaced, and the same thign done there; bondo'd over but now it has cracked. If you're gona do a body job, you may find a few difrent colers on that panel. My white car was repaired with a quarter panel from a red/purple car from the looks of things..

I've noticed this too.. There will be a new post visible in say, the 6cyl forum. If I go into the forum, it not there!! But if I go back to the main page, and click on the post topic from there, it takes me to it... I thought I was crazy..

I'm considering getting rid of both my trucks (93 Nissan King Cabs; both V6, one 4x4 5 speed, one 2wd auto) and possibly picking up a 2001 Extera. 3.3 V6 5 speed 4x4. Basicaly wondering if anyone has one, or knows of any 'issues' with these vehicles? I'm thinking about doing this in the next few months (once I'm back to work and making real $$$ again) and figured I'd start looking into it now.. I was going to take my 4x4 off the road in the spring and drive the 2wd again.. but somethin newer would be nice, and I feel that ONE daily/all year driver would be better than having one for winter, and another for summer.. not to mention my 4x4 is..hurting. 275 000 K's, the ignition is going bad (have to giggle key around to make it start), the door locks are dying and the passenger door won't unlock even from the INSIDE sometimes, the manifolds are leaking, u-joints are shot so the thing shakes on the highway, and the body has seen way better days.. the 2wd is in much better shape, but the locks are doing the same thing, and the body is starting to show rust in places.. Also, carying passenger's is difficult as room is scarce in the pickup, and the ride is kinda harsh on long trips (combo of typical truck suspension and poor seats) both of which I seam to be doing more of lately.. So I'm spoiled now and will not drive without a 4x4 in the winter, but I'm tired of my aged pickups.. I've looked at some newer pathys, but I find them.. too plain, as wel as uber expensive.

I'd put them in the dash in this order, (left to right); Water Temp, Oil Presure, Boost, and fuel presure in the lower left dash. (where you have the Oil guage sitting) The EGT and oil temp I'd put in a pod on the 'A' pilar, or wherever else you were thinking of mounting...

Sounds reasonable to me.. Maybe DOT would know.. He had dodge small block(s?) in his Z for a while till he went to the Jag V12.. Havn't seen him on here for a while though..

Not that they are indestrucaible, but you'd be suprised how strong the Audi drivetrains are.. There are plenty of guys using them behind V8's in ferrari/lambo 'kits' based on Fiero chasis. (I've been doing some reaserch lately..) Aparently, the audi transaxle (for example, the one from the audi 5000 front wheel drive and quatro models) will handle around 400 horse. And while possible to get that power out of a turbo Audi I5, it is a bit on the pricy side.. I've even seen a web site documenting an LS1 swap into a 5000 Quatro..

Funny.. My friend and engine builder was at a local gas station and niticed an old 1st gen supra in really nice shape. Turns out it was the owner of the station, and they talked for a few minits.. He told the guy (an older italian fellow) he was curently building a head for (mine) a 75 datsun 280z and the guy laughed "Oh yah, old dotsin Z's.. theyyyyy're ok, but the supra is a way better car.. I'll take him easy man..that thing is old but it realls goes you know. 240K an it runs like new..." My friend decided not to explain what he was doing with the head.. (cam, port work, shaved head, I'm rebuilding the bottome end AND will hopefully have a 5 gear to go with the 3.90 rearend.. ) He now wants to REALLY make my car fast for next summer.. He said he figures I'll be able to take that supra easily, and look better at the same time.. hehehe..

I dono if it's wort it to you, but I know where a zx is in Toronto for $700.. IIRC, its all good where yours is.. bad.. IE; it has all the parts you list here in pretty good shape..

I might be interested in the brakes.. $$?

What he said. I did the rear roll pan on my 280 using a flat sheet of 'door bottom repair' metal. It comes about 6" wide, 5' long and has one edge folded over to about a 45* (I used a small piece on my door, and you just get it in place and fold it the rest of the way and weld) I was considering building a custom panel for some round tail lights, but my stock ones worked, and I didn't want to add to the list (the while I'm at it thing..) and IIRC, the rear of a ZX really is almost flat across the back.. I found it's really easy to line it up (flat metal on a slight curve) and just use a few pop-rivets to hold it, and just start triming/bending it slightly. Work from top/center, down and out equaly, some fidling around, and it will take shape quickly.

I don't think there's anything 'wrong' with a slightly negative deck hight.. I think that's pretty normal for N/A engines, although it seams you're talking about using 240 rods as they are longer, hence 'stroking' it.. (I'm not 100% sure on this though..don't know anythign about the KA pistons) But what really maters is what's been done to the head you're using, and where the valves are gona end up. IE; Has it been shaved? Gona run a hot cam? I supose you could deck the block as well..

I think 250 should be easy to get out of the L28et.. Heck, 250 isn't too hard to get from a N/A L28..