Metallicar

Perhaps method is part of the problem. I have found when cutting anything thick, no matter what tool, cutting the smallest surface to blade area is fastest and best. I did buy a Ryobi 14" chop saw at Home Despot, I found it on sale for $49.00. I burned the living shite out of it in about 60 minutes. I literally melted the plastic bearing retainers and melted the brushes. I returned it to the store and got another one. Of course the replacement one has lasted, because I overcame the learning curve on its use and capabilities. I recently purchase 7 1/2" blade for my 10" table saw, it is made to cut steel up to 1/8" thick. I paid about $60.00 for it. It is wicked. I definitely wear a face shield and gloves when using it.

That's a tough place to be in. If you call the building inspector, your client will hate you. In the mean time, you put your neck in the noose if you don't. "Got Permit?"

While removing the paint from the current car, I was listening to a local radio station announce a contest. The contest rules required having "Metallica" painted on your car, then be spotted by the radio station people on the road driving around town. At the time I wishing I had a stainless steel car, because I liked the metallic look so much. (No, I don't want a delorean - I would prefer a stainless S30.) Jon

The more I look at this car, I keep not seeing S30 pieces like the fire wall or familiar door holes, am I wrong? The ad was stated for a 240Z, but also others. It does look like it's close. Still cheap at 100 pounds. Theres a stout trans tunnel:

Very interesting http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Datsun-240z-style-Kit-car-Carlton-Carrera_W0QQitemZ190072602501QQihZ009QQcategoryZ29750QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I received material for front rails and subconnectors today. I also picked up some 16 gauge galvanized sheet steel as a gift. Actually, there is enough of this galvanized sheet material to replace the entire floor. Are there any drawbacks in using the galvanized metal for the floors? Besides fumes and zinc puddling, is there anything else I should watch out for when welding the galvanized metal to the plain steel? Would plain steel sheet welded to plain steel stock be a better/stronger finished product? Will I be safe using the galvanized metal? Thank you all again!

That's great, but are you sure it's wired in right? She might be speaking backwards:cuss:, or speaking in tongues! I wonder if I can get what that speaks like Jackie Mason, "So, you think you might want to close the door? Oy Vey!"

My Lincoln 135 does very well and has for a few years now. 110 Volt welders get a bad rap. Mostly, I think, because of power issues. Key thing is the power source. Try to run the welder from a dedicated circuit as close to the house panel as possible to minimize voltage drop. Most of the time the poor old 110v unit is plugged into the same circuit as garage lighting and gawd knows what else (probably the spare freezer, right?) If you have to run it on an extention cord, get a 12 guage cord if the run is 25 feet. 10 guage if it is longer. Heavy cordage will not only help keep the required power available, it will minimize the risk of hurting the welder itself from running on lower than specified input voltages. Those of you happy with the 175's or any unit running on 220v, are running dedicated circuits! So far as the comment made about a 220v unit saving energy, that is bunk. Yes it draws less amps. Half of a 110v unit, but on both legs of power.

I told you so.

My bumpers are steel. My point is, is that by the time I was done with the 2+2 bumper, it ended up being the same size as the 240 coupe bumper. I think you are going to be happy with the size of the MSA piece as it is with no modifications. Good Luck!

Whoa! Don't start cutting anything until you have the new bumper in hand. This is my story....I have a 77 2+2. I decided to install the smaller bumpers on the car. I really lucked out and purchased a brand new Nissan, center bumper section for an early 74 2+2 on ebay for $25.00 shipped to my door. I already had a 240 bumper complete, but was concerned about that extra 3/4" the 2+2 has in width. I pulled off the ends of the 240 bumpers and attached them to the new center section piece. After going back and forth with dry fitting the whole thing on the car, I ended up cutting that 3/4" of an inch off of the 240 bumper ends (3/8" on each side)! I like the way it looks on the car. I have approx 1/8" space between the inside of the bumper to the cars skin, all around.

I went to the paint store today. The mixer guy told me that Rustoleum had in fact stopped the "Custom Color" program here in the U.S.. The reason he said was becuase of "known toxins" in the base. He did also tell me that he would be happy to add any tint to "White" Rustoleum, if I would promise to hold him harmless of the end result. Meaning, I would buy the mixed paint without warranty or complaints. The limitations on the color mixed Rustoleum would probably be that only a "(small) percentage" of pigment could safley be added without harming the product. So deep colors would be hard to make. But, you know there are still so many cool colors that could be made. I am thinking of my new project looking like a BMW art car.

Turbo pigs?

you could make the body strong enough for a convertible top, why not a T-top? There are many examples of such reinforcement which exclude roll bars or cages. Heres one from Zparts.com If

Check out Carl Beck's Zhome Web Site. http://zhome.com/ Look for the link http://zhome.com/History/240Accessory.htm Also search these forums. I remember some discussion of grafting a ZX roof to a Z. I also found somewhere on the web a source for an aftermarket tbar roof for a Pontiac.

That color is a genuine Rustoleum Color! As I posted, they had a chart of over 100 colors that the retail store would "custom" mix using Rustoluem base paint. I have not seen the bases in Home Despot in a while, but the chart is still hanging on the shelf! I do not want to rant here about Home Despot here, becuase if I get started, I may not stop. Anyway, a decent paint store that has Rustoleum products should be able to mix anything using the Rustoleum white as a base. Look at: http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=555&SBL=5 The Tremclad seems to describe what I had used for my test fender. Anyway, I will grab that color chart and scan & post. Better yet, I will go to the paint shop and see if I can get the recipes for tinting the bases.

Rustoleum in the not too far past had a paint that they offered to "Custom" mix. I still have a chart at the shop. I will get it this week and find out more. They still offer Tremclad in Canada that can be mixed in over 100 colors, but not here in the US. I would think that any paint store that does computer mixing could still do a computer match using White Rustoluem as a base. Well, maybe not a perfect match, but better than a S.W.A.G.. Here again is a test fender of mine in Rustoleum! The lady at Home Depot's Paint Department asked me "What in God's Name are you going to paint with this?" I still have this fender in the shop, the paint is almost bullet proof after 2 years. It is very reluctant to chip or scratch.

Crispy Chicken, your new frames look great! I have two questions. It looks like 1/4" x 1/4" x 16 ga angle was used to connect the front fenders to the frame rails is this right? I am assuming that the new angle stock is overlaping the bottom of the old fenders. Can you post a picture of the point here the front crossmember bolts to the new rail, please? I am not sure how to make this connection solid. Thank you for sharing!

Just a filter/moisture removal unit. You do not ever want to have any oil in the air hose if you want to paint. I just use the eye dropper for oiling air tools. When you do paint, get some in line dessicant units, less than $10.00 each, they will last for a limited time. Install just before the spray gun, it will change color when exhuasted.

Before you begin piping the tank up to a "system" in the shop, think about adding another tank to add more capacity. Try to add at least 10 Gallons more, but try to double what you have. You could even use one of those $29. "portable" tanks from Home Despot. I have found it makes a diffence in the capacity of air available when painting or using tools over a duration of time.

I have two of those Shop Vacs, with the stainless tanks. I have had no problem with one. The other had the ball check problem, so I removed it. After four years of use the pump was not pulling. I found that the impeller had cut a groove in the volute. I fixed this with hot glue. No problems since. The Shop Vac are the only vacs I could find locally, on the shelf that use filters and bags. All of the Ridgid units at Home Despot are crap.

Diamond Plate Aluminum on the rockers and lower fenders, the rest Olive Drab. Screen stone guards on the lights. Safari style. Black out trim and wheels.

I could not resist posting another picture of mine. I know, I need a better camera....

Cheap paint? read this thread: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1 It's the Roll on Rustoleum thread, lot's of comments and pictures.

Like this? This I did to a 2+2. I do not have pictures of how I connected the front to a 2 x 3 tube in the wheel well which connected to the front frame rail. I welded on a "skin" to the square tubes. I did all of this because the inner sheet of the rocker was gone.