Metallicar

In the case of North Carolina. I am sure the population explosion over the past 10 years is not helping the water situation. I read that the population has tripled in the along I-95 in the past decade. So far as the Outer Banks, they keep putting up 10 bedroom houses in Duck and Corolla, moving the old 5 bedroom houses up beach to Corova. Rendering ground water non-potable. Finally a working municipal water works in Corolla, and the water company now says not to install copper pipes, becuase their product (water) is corrosive - and it tastes like it is too! What a F'n place!

This represents what was left of both rocker panels, both doglegs, both front and rear frame rails, floors, battery box, and seat mounts. If there is anything you do not see in this picture, it is because it was lost to rust into dust... Mind you, that the above pictures are of the same things, just displayed. The best tool I ever made for sandblasting:

Moving along.... http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa195/jonelby/bbb015.jpg?t=1193182085 http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa195/jonelby/bbb006.jpg?t=1193182113 http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa195/jonelby/bbb005.jpg?t=1193182137 http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa195/jonelby/bbb002.jpg?t=1193182169

That a good question!

Look whats on sale at Summit: http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=400304+301664 Hmmm, I wonder if I could drill and tap the top of that....

I searched Zcar also. I found a link to a supplier to the Bronco cult. They used to have these "surge tanks" but no longer, they now have this: http://bcbroncos.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=131_108&products_id=119

I want to do the Z31 ECU swap. I now only need the ECU to make it happen. I have everything else. I picked up a 85 ECU but it is in sad condition. The P.O. claims the car was running fine with it in the car (the car was wrecked). Here are some pictures of the boards. Can I clean these up safely? With what? I remember seeing boards cleaned with Refrigerant 11. Is this a good option? I still have access to some R11, R12, and others. Thanks for your help! Jon

N13 series (1987-1990) Nissan Pulsar NX seats seem to be plentiful, lightwieght, and fairly easy to install. These are smallish for my fat arse. I'm 5"10 with 40" waist. These are still more comfortable than the worn out stock seats. Today, I pulled the black leather front seats out of a 93 Saab 9000 CSE. I had to abandon the seat computer, fore & aft gear, and the hieght adjustment automation, otherwise they would never fit in the S30. I can keep the lumbar support, heat, and motorized recline. These seats are very comfortable. $40 at the junkyard. Looks like it will be easy to make the Z sliders work on the Saab seat frame.

I never installed the stainless trim on mine. Driven daily in rain, snow, and even nice weather, never leaks. Roughly 40,000 miles now in about 2 years. So far as the channel that the stainless trim sets in, it really does not look bad empty.

Their website says Free Shipping = Not True! They told me they have it in stock, two months went by, never received my stuff. I called a few times to see what was happening. I was told they had 3 of my 4 pieces, did I want to wait for the fourth or ship out what they had. I said ship out what you have. I waited two more weeks, never received. They never shipped. I cancelled the order. I could not stand the Bull Crap anymore. I got lucky and found and won on ebay what I had ordered from Tabco. Only I got real Nissan stuff! There is another company, though I have not used: http://www.rustrepair.com/repair_panels/onlinecat.htm?r=ru&p=sm-datsun Edit: I was told that the shipping for my parts was going to be somewhere between $45-50 for two rocker panels and two dog legs.

I am still sore from doing a swap in my 77 car. There really is not a whole lot to keep track of, to do this swap. Just this: 1) You will probably want to use the original stick shift as it has the right bend in it to not interfere with the hole in the chassis. 2) You want to use the throwout bearing collar for the transmission you are furnishing. Everything else fits just right. Good Luck By the way, I am sore from doing this little project myself. No trans jack. Oh yeah, (probably, more oh yeahs to come....) The speedo cog is a science, pay attention to the web site posted above.

Thanks to Eric_280zxt at Zcar.com for posting where to download FAST, the Nissand Dealer Parts Software. Here: http://www.phatg20.net/ The site has older versions but for me, it is what I needed. It does have a learning curve, I have to climb. I am still learning Fast, slowly. Anyway, I found the part number for the LEFT fender for the S30. Which I need. Left Side ~ 63101-N3600 I took that number to the search box at Courtesy Nissan: http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasite/fender-fro-p-385657.html Edit: Okay here is the Right Side Fender: Right Side ~ 63100-N3600 http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasite/fender-fro-p-385577.html For crying sake! Please double check these part numbers with your parts guy! I hope this helps.

Save all of the pieces you cut out. Even sweep up all of the rust and dirt as it falls on the floor as you go. When you are all done with the car, weigh the savings. We will see who has the bragging rights for the POS saved!. Keep going, it's worth the experience.

I could or would have never begun this project without the help and kindness of my friend VinhZXT. His generosity is unmatched, his patience is amazing, his talent is awesome. Thank you again, Vinh! This project is a 1973 240z, that looked okay on the surface. Once the surface was broken, the true condition became apparent. A ripple effect began. Finding one ring of rust, lead to another. I started by removing everything but rear suspension from the shell. While doing this, I found the majority of rot that the car was suffering. It seemed pointless to sandblast the shell. I just started to cut out the cancer, strategically, replacing and reinforcing the metal work as I proceeded. This is just the beginning. I am collecting and saving every piece of rusty metal and every ounce of rusty dirt that I sweep off the floor as I go. I will gather it all up and weigh it in, once I am satisfied that the removal of it all is complete. More than anything, I just want to be able to say that I removed "x" number of pounds of rust, from this beast. So, I so far have installed new 2 1/2" front rails with 2 1/2" x 1 1/2" rear rails that connect to the cross member that the rear sway bar mounts to. I have replaced the floor pans with "skid plate" 16 gauge galvanized sheet, against the advice of some. I have done the same in the battery box. I have installed new rocker panels and dog legs. I have been able to MIG fill some small holes in the rear fenders. I have piece-mealed the tail/hatch deck successfully, I think. I am doing this without a rotisserie. Since I left the rear in, I can lift up the front high enough to get to it all. Still more to go. http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa195/jonelby/ImportedPhotos00003.jpg?t=1186623819

Uhh....maybe he was looking for his stray ball? The left one?

Those huge compressors at Home Depot sit in the store for a long time. I recommend going right to the Store General Manager, and ask him to drop the price if you have cash in hand. I picked one up for 20% less than Grumpyvette. A 10% discount is easy to get anyday from HD, ask for 20% on a big ticket, slow seller and you can get it!

Did you catch this thread at Zcar.com? http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/1/1820145/1820145#msg-1820145 Look a the link and see the Leather Dash!

I have had no problems without the trim installed, in my 77. This may be due to using Nissan sourced weatherstrips, installed as specifed in FSM, with adhesive / sealant, which I installed all by myself! (Now that was fun, I don't ever remember sweating so much!) My car is a daily driver in NJ/PA, year round rain and snow, now near 40,000 miles in 20 months. No signs of leaks, no signs of the windows popping out. I drive fast, wth the windows open on I-95. If, the glass hits the pavement, I will let you know!

Great! I wonder what this means for me, as I came to the end of your thread; http://www.usexplosive.com/

I rarely go to that site because the logging in ♥♥♥♥ is such a hassle. It seems I always have to go to lost password link, get a new temp password, reset password, log in again, and end up getting not much out of the site visit anyway. I'm not sure if it's my security settings or thier's.

I feel the same way, Ernie. At least let us know where we can find your posts in the future, via Private Message, maybe. I'm root'in for you!

For crying out loud, practice on something else first.

For a Round Hole, I would use a Hole Saw. 10" may be hard to find, but it would be ideal. I would also consider using my Rotozip, with the "Circle Cutter" attachment and metal cutting X Bit. http://www.rotozip.com/Shop/CategorySubBrowse.htm?IID=66587&HID=188064&BID=18 Or, as I have used in the days when I installed sheet metal duct work, a tool by Malco for cutting round holes in sheet metal. This tool fits on a standard drill and has a compass gizmo. Perfect round holes in metal, up to 12" Dia. http://malco.malcoproducts.com/products/shear/hc1.asp

I don't know, I guessing that Tig is not very portable. Would it not be cheaper or possible to run Aluminum Service Cable and a recepticle 45 feet closer, and use only 5 ft of copper cord?

:fmad:Tabco is disappointing. Their website claims free shipping, yet they charge shipping. Their website claims prompt shipment, yet when I placed an order; I was told "Yeah we have that here, we will try to get it out by the end of the week, or next week". Well, two months went by, I gave up. Here is a site that has body parts, but I know nothing about their products or service: http://www.millsupply.com/