Metallicar

The hunt is on! Looking for a stock windscreen from another OEM to work for this application. Don't want to go Mad Max and use two flat windows.

You better start shopping for a welder.....

How about adjusting the pedal push rod? Put yer head where your feet go and look up at it.

His Majesty, has put up some great posts at http://www.classiczcars.com Search فيصل Over there ! Most photos are from: http://www.q8hp.com/ a pretty cool site.

I had to replace my slave cylinder not long ago. The replacement had a push rod about 1/4" longer than the original. Worried, I swapped the rods before I installed the new slave. New Slave, Old Rod, No Problem.

That red looks great! Perhaps instead of adding black, add some blue. Congrats, that is looking sweet.

AS my first effort to save a very rusty 2+2, with no expertise in welding, or much of anything else, I decided to do this: I used two 1 x 1 x 1/8" box tubes and later welded a 18 gauge skin over the tubes. It is a little hard to make out in this picture but there are 2 tubes, one where the new floor pan meets the rocker and the top one at the top of the rocker box. I welded in intermdiate verticale pieces, making like a ladder. It posed no problems with the seats sliding for and aft. Also I used square tubes to install the seat sliders to. These seat supports were welded to 1/8" plates at the tunnel. This left side progress picture is all I can find at the moment. I thought it might be useful to someone out there in Z Car Land.

Sorry, I am a dumbass for not posting the rim spec. I have BFG's on 14 x 7 US Indy - 5 slots . I have 225 /60/ 14 in the rear and 215/60/14 in the front. They have zero offset. As I posted earlier the rear did come down on the very very edge of the outer sidewall, when hitting a bump hard. I have decent suspension. So I ruled out any problems with poor springs, struts, bushings. I just took my angle grinder and removed about 1/8" of an inch on the inside of the wheel opening. Actually, I drove around with it hitting for a while before I figured out what the noise was. It really just ever so slighty cut into the tread where it meets the side wall. It is nearly impossible to see where it cut. Now I also must admit it only did it on the right side. I still dont know why. everything is equal, tires, wheels, etc. I am planning to move the fronts, (the 215's) to the back of my newly aquired 240 ( Thank You! VihnZXT !) and get something smaller for the front, I think the 215's in the front look too wide, almost jeepish. One more thing , I'm talking about a 77 2+2 car

I have 225/60/14 on my 77. I had to grind a little off the inside of the rear fender lip, other wise they would rub ever so slightly hitting bumps.

The black looks great! I prefer satin or semi gloss for this. Flat shows every smudge and spots. The satin is easy to wipe off.

I got my stainless steel mesh from Mcmaster Carr. I used 1/4" square, but they have other sizes and patterns.

I am not ready to do the swap yet, but I am close. I have been reading all of the swap related posts looking for problems guys have had before and after their swap. This bad connector problem seems to be prevelant. Even after cleaning the connectors and exersizing them in and out, they fail. But, I am wondering, is that really the issue? Could it be that the ECU, needs to be reset? Would disconnecting the Battery and reconnecting it provide a required reset? I don't know, is there an eprom or something that needs a reboot?

Lean could mean vac leak or low fuel flow or pressure. The turbo fuel pump and the N/A pump are the same part number I think. Your not using the fuel pump modulator are you?

Very cool! congrats! So, the vacuum leak, gotta a gut feeling where it is?

It's 3 days later, now. How are you doing? I would like to hear it's in, running, and burning up tires!!

While your at it, If you have a trencher on site, bury a water line, gas line, and the digital cable.

That amount of #3 copper, might scrap you out enough money to buy Alum feeder wire, conduit, and all of the breakers, to get you 100 amps.

Yes, I did read the article. I also printed it out and took it to the garage, compared it to my donor (a 1982) and well, my brain started to hurt. I am feeling much better now. I think my schematic is now accurate. I was hoping that I could get some input or advice, one way or the other. I am almost ready to do the swap. My plan is to swap in all of the stock components, (uhh, not all of the stock stuff- no a/c- no fuel modulator- no boost sensor- no egr- no vacuum pump with all of it's conglomeration of valves and electrics). Drive the car. That's day one. Day two, install the same side in/out intercooler. Drive the car, Maybe over the winter, I will do it all over again, installing either the Z31 stuff or go aftermarket. Depends on my brain.

Drop a L6 turbo in this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EXTREMELY-RARE-1950-MORRIS-J-TYPE-VAN_W0QQitemZ320002295218QQihZ011QQcategoryZ6472QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Something cool, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-DIAMOND-REO_W0QQitemZ180003439109QQihZ008QQcategoryZ39405QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Hmmmmmmmmm, I wonder, if that's how he gets a piece of ***.

I'm still staring at the Haynes Wiring Diagram, trying to derive a Turbo Swap Wiring Diagram. How am I doing?

Getting ready for my install of the 1982 Turbo Engine in to my 1977. I have and want to install all of the stock components for now. So I have removed all of the goodies from the donor car. I have been tracing out the wiring for the famous three plugs, using the Haynes Wiring Diagrams for the 1982 280ZX Turbo. Does this look right?

Drop VinhZXT, a message. He has one installed in his yellow car. He is very happy with it. He has convinced me to get one for mine as well. I have read on a more than a few forums, that the ebay sourced intercoolers are well worth trying. They seem to be as well made as the name brand units.

I purchased one of those on ebay from a guy who claimed it was used for a few hundred miles. The turbo sure looked clean inside and out. It did have some shaft play. I took it apart to investigate and found that the casting of the center section had a pretty wide crack in it where the bearing floats. This crack could have been caused by lack of oil, but since everything looked pretty sterile, I think the casting may just be poor. One other thing, the "5 bolt pattern" is not the same as the stock unit. It is off by quite a bit. I am toying with the idea of bolting up the cold side to my Nissan T3