cheftrd

New engines are not tested. Delivery time depends on Stock. If Nissan has them in stock, it's usually less than a week for the dealer to receive it. Want me to check stock?

All of the aftermarket pumps have the slot. The price for the genuine parts pump has always been expensive in Japan, but the aftermarket N1 pump is the same price as the standard pump. It also has eight blades, but the blades are longer. I use stock Gates belts on 10,000+rpm engines with high lift cams too. I've never used an aftermarket belt (sell a lot of them, though). I've had exactly ZERO belt failures on any engine, RB or other.

The easiest, least expensive way I've found to do it is with SDS efi. If you get the 6F system, and order it to drive the MSD DIS4, you can use the stock coils. By deleting the coils that come with the system and not having to buy quality plug cords, the price comes out to about the same, including the DIS, as the standard F system. Plus you end up with a high-power ignition system.

Same seal.

The R200 in the GT-R and the Cefiro/S13's are not the same. The GT-R diff is substantially beefier with larger ring gear bolts and larger stub shafts. Additionally, the GT-R front differential mount lugs are different. Although in the same position, they are made with a bushing abd have a cross member that runs across the bottom side where the Cefiro and S13 are just two bolts that go straight up. The case length is different, as well. I think what you are asking is if it's sort of a bolt-in job? The answer is no. One advantage to the Silvia member is that you can get it without the Hicas mount and just toe control rods, stock.

If you use the factory Z31 steel oil pan, the windage trays will not fit. Maybe the rear one will. but the front one deffinately won't.

The difference is in the impeller. All of the RB pumps will fit all of the RB blocks. Standard impeller has eight blades and the N1 has six larger blades plus a plate behind the impeller. The N1 pump will produce less cavitation at sustained revs. Running around town you are not producing much HP. I've never seen an engine overheat because of an N1 pump. Guys that were having drip issues probably didn't use enough sealant, and would have had the same problem with any pump. BTW, the N1 pump costs twice as much as a standard pump (more than $100 more). If you're not circuit racing or autocrossing, that's money to be spent somewhere else.

The 26 blocks are mostly not drilled. There is a boss for where the dipstick is supposed to go. You will have to drill it yourself. Outside Inside

This is a fuzzy shot of the pickup. The "bell" is the original RB26 pickup.　You can also see the factory windage trays. Front of the pan with SDS hall sensor and mount. Right side of pan. Left side of pan. I didn't take pictures of the baffeling. There's also a trap-door I installed to keep oil in the back of the pan on deceleration. All of the bolt holes line up and the factory windage trays fit with no problem. You NEED those windage trays if you are going to turn this engine. They won't fit with the RB20 steel pan.

The 26 I'll be putting into an S15 shortly will have this mod done like Joel's car. This is an uber-expensive engine, so I really hope it works!!

That's cool.

A couple of points here that I feel need some clarification. Some of you guys already know this stuff, and I don’t mean to beat the proverbial “dead horseâ€, so please bear with. ITB’s are not conducive to power production. The reason for using ITB’s over a conventional throttle/plenum is improved throttle response/control. Improved throttle response/control is good for circuit cars. Circuit racing is what the GT-R was designed for, not a no holds barred drag racer as we would like to believe. An engine will make more power when it doesn’t have an 8mm shaft running through the middle of the port, obstructing air flow and creating turbulence, six to eight inches from the intake valve. Most of the drag (uber power) RB26’s use a large single. Aftermarket twin throttle intakes serve the same purpose, but with an attempt to better distribute the air between the front and rear cylinders. Indicated AFR (according to the meter, wideband or otherwise), is affected by many variables. Complete or incomplete combustion (read clean or dirty combustion) knock, and cylinder head temperature are a few of these variables. Early on in the RB26 (or any RB for that matter) aftermarket modification race, it was found that even with no audible knock and AFR in check, #6 cylinder would consistently fail ring lands at elevated power levels. With the addition of forged pistons, power could be increased, but #6 will still show failure in the form of burnt (melted) pistons and squish pads while other cylinders may appear unscathed. Damage to other cylinders could also be present, but it is progressive from front to rear, with the rear always suffering the worst. Many “builders†assumed that this was because the rear cylinder must be getting more air and therefore be lean. Sure enough, individual cylinder testing showed AFR increasingly lean from front to rear. Many assumed it was a bad manifold design. However, even with the addition of an aftermarket manifold the problem persisted. One look at the stock RB26 plenum and any reasonably mechanically inclined person will know that the hyper-breathing #6 port phenomenon is a myth. Common sense says that there is no way that cylinder is getting more air than the others through the twisted, choked, compromise of a port runner that was made that way to clear the clutch master cylinder; no matter what individual cylinder AFR comparisons say. Here’s what I found through a little testing: The RB26 runs progressively hotter from front to rear. By third gear on a full throttle pull with a 500hp motor, coolant temps in the #6 combustion chamber area can be smokin’ (or steamin’ if you like), while the overall coolant temps are in check on the gauge. High cylinder head temps contribute to many things; two of which are more complete combustion and knock inducing hot-spots. More complete (and hotter) combustion will show as leaner on the AFR meter, and knock will destroy pistons. See where this is heading? By adding an additional coolant outlet to the rear of the head, the temperature in the #6 combustion chamber area came almost in line with #1. AFR differences between #1 and #6, and exhaust temperature differences between #1 and #6 were negligible. Adding three additional coolant outlets like the Exvitermini GT-R is also an option, and will keep the entire head cooler. I haven’t personally done this mod yet, so the jury is still out on the disparity between front and rear cylinders.

Thanks to all those who sent info.

Any RB'ers from the central Florida area? Thinking about relocating there in the next year or two and would like info. PM me. Thanks.

3.214 1.925 1.302 1.000 0.752 Nissan is cheap on R&D and they like to use the same parts on car after car after car... I would assume that the final is either a 4.1 or a 4.3; most likely a 4.1. Most of the cars that came with the 3.8 were autos.

http://www.sdsefi.com/techocta.htm

WOW!, I had no Idea that this swap would upset people all over the internet. I guess I'll be talking to Jon tonight and see if he wants to pull the Mustang from the back pasture, sell the S15 and move forward with the 26 into '67 Stang swap. But then again, I don't know how many times I can tolerate "Hey, that's just like that car in F&F".

Maybe you have no support because you're at Camp Fuji? I build American V8's and trannys left and right for people. ATI superchargers, stroker kits......... Most of the shops around you cater to the road race customer due to Fuji Int Speedway being right down the street. The American V8 and classic car market in Japan is thriving. I see more 60's era Impalas and low riders in Okinawa than SoCal. We have a population of around 1.5 million. Okinawa has the highest percentage of high performance cars on the street, per capita, than anywhere else in Japan. Why would HKS, ORC, Omega Oil, and others come down here to sponsor and run race events if there was no market? There are over 50 race shops here, that I know of. I'm sure there are many more back-woods operations. On the G-Tec Pro Competition: Both Road & Track and Car & Driver, among others, have tested it and shown it to be accurate to less than one tenth in the quarter. If my Vette shows 9.5 seconds on the ticker, I'm sure it's running 9's. Henza is over one mile long, dead straight and dead flat. Compare this to what? Sendai? Half of that track is downhill. You can't give the world accurate quarter times from there, either. When 99% of the racing in Japan is done on the street, I can assure you that nobody but the F&F, little kid crowd cares what your car does in the quarter. The common phrase you hear among the real players is "Who cares what your car did at Sendai; bring it to Henza" (Mizugama, Aja, Irijima, and on and on....). As far as machine shops go, you're right that they suck. Most are like mom and pop operations. If you want quality, you must send your stuff to Tomei, Toda, etc. You're going to pay; it doesn't matter if it's an American V8 or an RB26. That's why you buy a balanced rotating assy from Egale etc. Most of the RB's and SR's that I build are standard bore, so that Joe-machinist doesn't get the chance to ruin it. The RB26 we've got going into an S15 almost went into an old six-banger Mustang. In the end, we decided that the body was just too far gone and would cost too much time to refurbish.

Wire the coils just how MSD shows. The coils are constant power. You can use that lead for the power to the DIS. The third wire from the coils is a ground which has nothing to do with the pos and neg from the DIS; this wire gets bolted to ground. If you still have the SR coil harness, you will see that all these wires terminate into a single loop for bolting to the engine (ground). All the coils get power from a single wire. That wire splits off after the igniter coupler and the #1 wire turns black. This wire is extra long with a loop for connecting an inductive timing light. Don't make it too short.

The water inlet is through the thermo in the block. Outlet to the radiator is from the intake manifold.