cheftrd

The 2J head outflows the 1J head by a mile. The reason for the 1J head on the 2J is exactly what I stated; it's an engine management issue. When I am referring to the MK II, I mean the Toyota Mark 2/Chaser/Cresta. From the JZX90 on, they are mostly 1J's. This is the popular car in Japan for the 1.5J swap.The 1.5J doesn't automatically make more power just because you increase displacement to 3.0 liters. They make more power because 99% of the people doing this swap also use big cams and big turbo kits. 99% of the 1J crowd, here in Japan, is still on the boost-up, muffler, and air filter menu. I've seen 700hp 1.5J's and I've built 700hp 1J's. The difference, as I stated earlier, is that the 3.0 makes the power at a lower RPM. Now that stand alone EM has caught on in Japan, I never see 1.5J swaps anymore, it's always the complete 2J.

Sorry guys, VQ crank is forged.

James, that's a nice shop. Looks kind of like mine!

10X1.5mm

I always use a regualr thread sealant (like that used on SBC head bolts), and have never had a problem. Not even on aluminum blocks with steel plugs.

http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=759

CC is for combustion chamber. If the pump can't keep up with the flow/pressure demand, the pressure will drop, regardless of the pressure regulator; you will see a huge drop. Very obvious on a gauge.

If your tune is "on". there are only two major causes of a high boost/high rpm misfire (and a lot of little ones). Fuel and spark. Assuming your set-up is stock, your injectors are not running maxing out at .7 bar. Is the boost/vacuum line attached to the regulator? If so, you need to install a pressure gauge in the fuel line. Tape it to the windshield. Verify that the fuel pressure rises a proportionate amount to the boost. i.e. you are running 38psi, static, (vacuum line off), if the boost goes up to 10psi, fuel pressure should be 48psi. I would put my money here. That pump is probably not up to the task. You will see boost go up, and as the revs climb, fuel pressure will go down. Pumps lose a lot of capacity as the pressure is increased. Additionally, turbo engines have a higher BSFC than NA engines. As pressuere in the CC increases, it takes more and more spark power to jump the gap. While the stock Nissan ignition is certainly up to the task, what of the plugs? I've seen lots of high-dollar (yen) "race" plugs give up the fight pretty quick when run on a daily driver. They may run fine until you lean on them. Electricity takes the easy road; this may mean the gap until the going get's tough in the CC. Then they may leak-to-ground through cracks in the insulation, not firing the charge. El-cheapo, non platnium/iridium plugs also have a hard time playing the boost game without some back-up in the form of a CDI, etc. Be awaer that most in-cockpit EGT gauges are very slow resopnding. Open-junction sensors are the only ones you should believe. I've put HKS, Autometer, Defi, etc against my Omega hand-held. They are usually about 200 degrees behind on the climb. Once stabilized, they are the same, but in a gear where you pass through quickly, just be aware of what's going on if the gauge is climbing. A lean misfire will cause my Omega to show 1200 c, sometimes, where the aftermarket gauges will barely register a blip. The aftermarket stopped using open junction long ago because the sensors burn out pretty quick (reletive to an enclosed junction).

It's not an R34 motor/crank. By JUN balanced, he means that it was balanced by JUN. An R32 crank will handle as much power as an R34 crank. The oil pump drive is the difference. The stock crank will not support the rpm's to make 1200hp and live. It is not fully counter weighted and not stiff enough. The flex at 12,000 rpm is unreal and it will wipe out bearings in very short order. Accelerating a roller on a dyno and accelerating a 3000lb car put completely different loads on the crank.

SDS Haltec Motec DFI TEC3 and lots of others. Two injectors per port. Idle on 440's but have 880cc worth of injector per port. Four injectors run up to about 30-40% duty, then the other injectors come on line.

The problem of the AIC is not one of atomization, but one of distribution. Dry-flow manifolds (most EFI) do not distribute fuel evenly among the four cylinders. A good AFR can show in the down pipe if one cylinder is rich and one is lean. Proper AIC operation needs one additional injector in each runner. If you're worried about idle quality with big injectors, buy engine management that has staged injector capability.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109378

They sell the entire front case for SR to R33/Z32 trans here. It's around $1800!! I've only had two failures of this gearbox and they were both behind 700+hp RB26's.

Just read it. Let me know if you still want it. Can have it in the mail tomorrow. NTT installed fiber at the house. I haven't had email in a month....still waiting for them to fix it.

Wiseco pistons run $640 for the set, including rings from Race Engineering. They're coated and have an offset pin to eliminate cold engine piston slap. JE's are $110 per piston. I get the Arias pistons for $1100 per set with rings including $100 for shipping from a supplier in Australia. HKS pistons don"t slap because they're made from a high silicone alloy, which is good for reducing expansion but bad for heat durability when compared to a low or zero silicone piston. Even on a high HP engine running 0.11mm clearance, any noise is gone once the engine warms up. If you don't rev it hard when it's cold, you shouldn't hear any noise anyway. N1 pistons are cast and not really any better than stock.

GO HERE

You would be better served by having a flange made. The 26 pan is a serious PITA to be cutting up for that. Look at it closely. The oil pump can be gutted and the plate left off. You must block the passage in the block from the pump to the filter outlet or oil will just pour back into the pan. Dry sump tanks are not just storage units; they also act as a swirl pot, among other things. I am a major fabricator, and would buy a tank before I custom built one. You're looking at 15 quarts, minimum. Your pick-up locations depend on how the car will be driven. Please don't say it's a street driver; not with a belt drive dry sump. Pick-ups must also be filtered. Hate to ruin an $800 pump with a little debris in the sump. I know you are set on a dry sump, but the cost of a correctly plumbed system is huge compared to even the $1500 HKS pump. There are HUNDREDS of 9 second GTR's and more than a few 8 second ones running around the streets of Japan with factory-style pumps and a modified sump.

Nissan is no longer producing/selling new long block RB26 engines for the 32 or 33.　Nissan is selling overhauled engines, but requires a core. They may be having an engine assembled for you out of new parts. Still, I can do that in one day with parts on hand.

If this is the solenoid I'm thinking of, it is in line with a T off of the actuator boost line, then it recirculates back into the air inlet to the turbo. This is used to "spike" the boost. It keeps boost off of the actuator until a certain point so the boost comes up quicker. When using an aftermarket boost controller, this solenoid goes into the trash or it will cause extremely erratic boost. The "gain" feature on modern boost controlers does the same thing, it holds off boost from the actuator/wastegate until a predetermined point is reached. You turn up the gain until the boost overshoots a little, then turn it back a little. Boost acts on the actuator as soon as it sees even 1psi. Say at max rpm, the wastegate valve needs to be open 10mm to hold the boost at 10psi. That means that it starts to open at much lower boost. This, in effect, bleeds off exhaust pressure on the turbine wheel, making boost come up much slower. The solenoid is normally open, allowing boost to bleed back into the inlet pipe, lowering the signal on the actuator. When the boost reaches a point set by Nissan, the valve closes, giving the actuator a much later opening, and bringing boost up much quicker.

Just curious, but is this advice anecdotal?