rytherwr

sq creations....sorry, this is the only video I have

Thanks, Hanns...that is a real compliment, coming from you. Will post some follow-ups when it gets warmer and I get it figured out. Wayne

Hey Dale, thanks buddy. You're right, it doesn't launch that hard off the converter, but I was working on the suspension to get it to go straight and stay closer to the ground, so didn't use the nitrous or the transbrake. The Friday before this video, I was testing, set the secondary rev limiter at 3000, and launched off the trans brake..I could see about 7 lbs of boost on launch...it went up, and up, and up and I finally had to get out of it to let it come back down before finishing the run...the track owner described it like this: " I have never seen a car that far up in the air that didn't fall on it's roof". He offered me more money during the match race if I would do that again...I don't think my jeans could have taken another one like that...) I've since put it on wheel scales, balanced it out with my fat butt in it, installed an anti-roll bar in the rear, so she launches straight now. I just have to play with methods to get the best 60 ft time...best so far is a 1.28, but I think I can do better...keep in mind, that's on MT ET streets. Inferno 08: No. I have it set up for the 1/8th mile and pretty much stick to that. Wayne

bshiltz..can't get away with nuttin'...yes, used to be red...turned it purple last March in my driveway...got every species of bug known to SW GA in the paint..but they sure are shiny! )

Thanks, Warren...ya done let the cat out of the bag...) darn... Hope you have a great Christmas! Wayne

Hey Folks, Hanns got me started on this with his "409" video, which was awesome, by the way. My local track paid us to do some match racing and I ended up racing a 39 Ford..nice car and runs well. This was the first time out for the "PPE" so only 12 lbs of boost. As you can see, my videographer (actually "ess") was not used to the camera but you can get the drift. As you can see, the Ford ran a pretty decent 5.91 at 116 mph in the 1/8th. I beat him in the match race and I ran 117 and change in the shakedown...I will let you guess what the time was...) Enjoy

Hanns, you dog, you! Never a dull moment with you around, Sir...) This is superb stuff! Super clean and runs like crazy...they say the same thing about mine....too quiet...never can tell how fast it ends up going....I sure like the way you put that together as a system. Now you got me started...I have to figure out how to post a video as well...) Congratulations!! Well done. Wayne

Sounds like a heckuva deal, Doc. Even if you opt for the 1.550 spring option, I still believe it's a deal when the quality is as you say. Good find! Wayne

Thanks for the heads up, rturbo 930...I had looked at Stony's before and I think the way his struts are set up, they are too high and interfere with my turbo's. Sure appreciate the eyes.. Wayne

Want to trade my Bill Mitchell World Products 454 SBC Special Edition for any first generation Z car tube chassis rolling chassis. Don't need anything but the basics, i.e., tube/or box frame, full cage, front suspension, rear end and suspension, preferably four-link, brakes, would be nice if I could make it streetable with little trouble. Front end must be either a low profile tubular a-arm or strut such as strange with 12 to 14" struts...I need to be able to fit turbo's where the normal strut towers on a Z car are located. I have around 1000 street miles and 4 1/4 mile passes, and around 20 1/8th mile passes on the motor. An honest 600 hp at the flywheel on 91 octane pump gas...it's a killer street motor but I just like my turbo's. To see the particulars, the part number is WRL-101011 on Summit or go to World Products web site. Retail is $13,000....I value the motor at $10,000 and would like to trade for a certifiable rolling chassis of the same value, or possibly will pay the difference in cash if the rolling chassis is special. Must be set up for pretty big driver, 6' 260 lb... If anybody sees anything please holler at me either here or at wayne.ryther@live.com Wayne

Grumpy's diagrams are center target! I am a fan of two complete fuel systems from the tank forward and return-type pressure regulators. When set up properly with the correct size lines,, filters, pumps, and regulators, there is never a doubt as to whether you are going to get the right amount of fuel when you need it. For my main fuel system, I use an Aeromotive Eliminator fuel pump with an Aeromotive fuel pump speed controller with -12 lines to the pump, -10 lines to the fuel rails, then to the return-type regulator and -10 return lines. I use the speed controller to keep the pump at a low ebb as I drive my car on the street as well as the track. You won't need anything with this much flow and pressure, but the setup can be the same configuration. For my nitrous system, I use a Walbro in-line with -6 lines to the return-type regulator and -4 from regulator to the solenoid. Although I have an abundance of potential fuel flow and pressure with just the Eliminator system, I run two systems because my main pressure regulator is controlled by engine vacuum or boost, therefore, the fuel pressure varies and I need steady state 55-60 lbs of fuel pressure under all conditions, which I can set up with the secondary system. It is critical that you set your fuel pressures while flowing as opposed to static, otherwise, you won't know if you have a pressure drop when you kick the solenoid and can't compensate for it. Most nitrous systems I am familiar with are jetted for a certain fuel pressure, so the correct steady state pressure saves a lot of aggravation and broken engine parts. All the fuel pressure and flow numbers will depend on what kind of a nitrous system you are using...for instance, I use a couple of NX Shark nozzles in a two-stage set-up so I need between 55 and 60 lbs of fuel pressure at the solenoids. You don't need anywhere near that if I understand what your system is, however, I find the configuration I use is conducive to safe nitrous use under all conditions. Hope this helps the cause. Wayne

Darn, Dale...you need to go back to work...you have WAY too much time on your hands and here ya go, showing off again...) Just kidding, my friend, just kidding. Looks to be super clean as I've come to expect from seeing your work and I, too, will bet on a smile after you get it broken in. Great stuff! Wayne

Nice stuff, Hanns...shoot, I never knew you were waste-gateless to begin with..) Watched your videos as well...great looking car and runs as good as it looks. I STILL blame my TT fixation on you! (and my empty wallet) ) Wayne

Spot on, Doc...

Careless, charging system is load-dependent, so if you aren't drawing over 70 amps with your starter and all your accessories on, then no worries...if you draw more, you will blow the fuse. Again, nothing says you can't run a fuse, it just needs to be large enough and the charging wire needs to be big enough to handle it, typically 12 or 10 gauge minimum.

Thanks, Mike. That was on a 2 second shot of 100 hp nitrous starting at 100% for 1.3 sec and ramping down zero. I just got my trans brake and secondary rev limiter in the computer working tonight. So far, I see about 6 lbs of boost at 3500 w/the rev limiter kicking in, so I'm hoping for some help with the sixty foot without the nitrous. Wayne

I was hoping some of you old folks would have a maginifier on your computer...) Let me try again from a different angle. Not in the 5's yet, Dale, 6.14, but will get there next time out, I promise! Wayne hotrod timeslip.pdf

We'll get into the fives with a little more tuning...drive it there, through the mufflers, and drive it home...) Wayne

Think of what the fuse is trying to protect....most modern alternators have an internal voltage regulator so there is little chance of overcharging the battery...you are trying to protect from a short in the rest of your wiring harness from the battery throughout your vehicle. Electrical theory doesn't stop you from putting a fuse in line between the altnernator and battery. It is not common practice, but if you do, it must be at least 10% higher amp rating than the alternator. Do you know what amperage your alternator output is? I run a single wire 200 amp alternator with a 00 gauge (the size of your battery ground wire) wire from the alternator directly to the battery and don't have any problems at all. Wayne

You should not have a fuse in the charging line from the alternator to the battery. If you do, it must be at least 10% larger than the amperage your alternator is rated for. I.e., if you have a 60 amp alternator, then it stands to reason if you are putting out full amperage and you only have a 30 amp fuse or a 40 amp fusible link, you will blow them every time. Again, you shouldn't have a fuse between the alternator and the battery, you should have a fuse or fusible link between the battery and the rest of your wiring harness. Wayne

Thanks, Grumpy....dead center target! Not easy to adhere to, but absolutely the correct way to go about it in the real world. Regards, Wayne

I had a 4L80E in my 71 240Z...the only thing I had to do was make room near the left bottom of the tunnel for the electronic plug that goes to the controller. pretty easy stuff...I use the JTR setup. Am using a TH 400 at the moment, same size casing and I actually have a full trans shield on it...still have room. Wayne

Doc is right...4L80E is better choice, however, TCI is advertising the "6-X" six speed automatic transmission rated as being capable of handling 850 hp (based on the 4L80E). Package includes trans, converter, control unit, paddle shifter, complete wiring harness, trans cooler and dipstick. I haven't seen prices, however, I suspect a wheelbarrow of shekals will be in order. ) http://www.tciauto.com Looked at the web site...price for the package is $6,064.35...a bargain if that is what you need for your hotrod... Wayne