rytherwr

Hey Folks, Merry Christmas...project is coming along pretty well....just no time to work on it. Hoped to have it completed by Christmas...no joy. I put one of the down-pipes on (sending away to get coated) so you can see how they will go through the fender-well, behind the front tire and into the mufflers. It looks a lot more busy in the pictures than it does in person, however, it still helps to have worked in a spaghetti factory...)...enjoy! Wayne

Thanks for the kudo's, folks...sure appreciate! Coming along slow as it seems I can't find time lately. Changed my mind on the down-pipe routing...going out the fenderwell, along the contour and behind the tire. Very similar to the routing of the rear turbo in-pipe on my Tundra that comes up through the fender well into the engine compartment. Wayne

What hood, Dale?? ) Just kidding...I think I know what I'm going to do with the hood, (L88 add-on and then some clearance humps on each side for the turbo's) and we'll see I can make it work. Thanks, John...I hope it runs like I think it will.... Wayne

An update on the hotrod....pls excuse the sloppiness at the moment, jigging things around to get the routing so it clears everything I need to clear before I clamp it down. Had to make a wild bracket to relocate the alternator to the lower right driver side...thought I could get an off-the-shelf bracket...n-o-t! Worked out ok though...plenty of room an it looks like I will have room to clear the snake-monsters also. Routing the down-pipes to the exhaust will be a little tricky. More as it happens Wayne

Go for it, Davy!!!! I thought I could wait until after the first of the year, but the bug got me!! ) I have had very good luck with the Mass Flo system in N/A form and I watch the Mustang guys do crazy things with turbo's and centrifigul superchargers using the EEC IV computer. I had Chris (from MASS FLO) send me another computer programmed for the boost, as well as an in-line MAF programmed for the bigger injectors. I am holding my breath because he swears the injectors he sent me are more than big enough to make 1000 horses, however, most of the calculators I have used have shown that I am short by about a third of what it says I need. I am not going to say what I'm using for injectors until after I see if he is correct or not. If he is, then there are lots of other folks who are wrong. However, Chris has never steered me wrong in 2 years, so I will give it a whirl...wideband system won't lie. I originally bought a PRO blow-through carb to run, however, I was just being lazy....they built it specifically for my combo...the sheet they have you fill out tells them everything but the typhoon condition. Other folks I've talked to have said they build them spot-on, they had the right AFR out of the box. Anyway, enough drivel...put your turbo setup together and call it a Christmas present..) Wayne

Guilty as charged...look for rytherwr (progress on twin turbo 454) and there are pics of the partial assembly...can't talk right now, however, look at the pics and hit me with whatever questions you have and I will answer after I get in the hotel. Wayne

Hey, Jerry...you are too kind...I appreciate the kudo's from the experts! I know John must have been kidding you...more like 5's in the 1/8th with your new NOS motor...last time I talked to Rip, he was up to his ears in work and hadn't had a chance to work out his new setup...he has been conspicious by his absence....You and John are MORE than welcome to anything I have...please don't ever hesitate to come over or pick my brain on some of the things I've learned (the hard way most of the time...my wife says it goes along with the hard head ) ) If you need anything, please holler... Wayne

" i know i have seen 300zx turbo rears installed, but is it worth it and how much trouble is it? will the halfshafts take that much abuse? what about where the halfshafts hook to the wheels?" If you want to know what the stock rear setups will hold, you should talk to J&J racing, RIP, Z-Gad and a few others that routinely abuse them. In the mean time, an R-230 (ring gear is larger than a 9" Ford) from a '90-'96 300ZXTT, Moser axle shafts with 300ZXTT CV nts on both ends and billet companion shafts make it pretty much bullet-proof. Wayne

Starters on Chevy motors (especially with headers) are notorious for solenoids overheating...some things to check: Have some shims and a standard paper clip handy when you install the starter Uninstall the solenoid so you can push the starter gear on the shaft by hand tighten the bolts, push the gear so it engages the flywheel/flexplate stick the paper clip between the starter gear and the gear on the flywheel/flexplate....you should have very little room around the paper clip. If you have too much room, take shims out, if not enough room, add shims. Re-install the starter solenoid and it shoud be fine (unless it gets heat soaked) The answer to GM starters getting heat soaked is to use a fender/firewall mounted Ford style solenoid and it will work every time. Hope this helps the cause. This has solved pretty much every GM starter problem I've had over the years. Even if installing an aftermarket gear reduction starter, you still need to make sure the gear clearance is correct Wayne

Z-Gad...I humbly apologize..I keep trying to answer and keep on forgetting...old people ya know? What I wanted to say is that 8.91 still scares the heck out of me...on a six cylinder no less!!! Awesome! Wayne

Thanks again, folks...sure keeps a body working when everyone is watching and waiting, eh? I am open to any and all suggestions, by the way....some I can/will use and some I can't/won't but I sure don't have a lock on ingenuity...I see some pretty wild stuff on this site...) Terry, first of all let me say I have been drooling over your car for since I have been on this site...it is a superb piece of work. Secondly, I believe I can get the traction with the 4-link adjustability and tires I have....I've tried to work this whole mess to be able to get the power to the ground...I've seen 10.5 Outlaw cars in the high 6's, so I think it is a matter of trial and error. I'm going to try the 4.11's but I strongly suspect I will have to drop to the 3.50's and hope between the gears, 4-link and spool time that I can make it stick. You guys with the scoop recommendations....given the topography of what you see under the hood and the way the hood mounts, any ideas on how you would go about it? Send me some drawings or examples if you do...we'll make this a board project, eh? Wayne

Heck-of-a job!!! It sure is a huge amount of work to get to the point you are at.....Super stuff! Wayne

I've been using (and abusing) a Bill Mitchell 454 SBC for over a year now in my 240Z. The motor has gone through a number of intake, carb, fuel injection iterations and I have no complaints at all. I am currently in the midst of installing a twin turbo system (see posts this forum) and I am doing that because my experience with my particular Motown engine is superior. All internals are forged and use ARP L19 rod bolts so I am not afraid of the longivity. I agree with Grumpy on both selections, especially the Shafiroff motors...please note, the Ohiocrank 454 uses Motown block, intake etc. Not sure what cam they are using, as they are only advertising 455 hp and 550 lb ft of torque while mine is dyno tested at 600 hp @ 6100 and 585 lb ft of torque at 4850 on pump gas with a 1050 dominator. I would be leery of the 700r4 behind that motor...you can make them live, but it takes someone who really knows how to modify them. If you are looking to cruise at low rpm, a 4l80E is a much more viable option in being able to withstand the rigors of the right foot. Wayne

Many thanks for the kind words, Scottie...means a lot coming from a gentleman who has put together some pretty wild stuff...) As for the view, I certainly hope that is the case....gotta sort it out of course, but I'm looking for some good time slips... Wayne

Wow! Everybody's enthusiasm is awesome and somewhat unexpected...I really appreciate and intend to update as it is useful. Yes, I will do a startup video. Hahns, If you can picture how the block hugger headers go down through at the apex of the collector on a NA setup, that will be my through-point to hooking up to my current 3" exhaust as I must come to the outside of the turbo headers. I will need to come back from the turbine at a slight compound angle toward the outside of the car for about 2 inches, then down from that point with a bit of an inside curve to mate up with current connections. Again, that goes into 3" pipes which go into 3" Dynomax straight-through mufflers. Wayne

Didn't have much time to work today, however, did get some mock-up completed. I hate to pick up air inside the engine compartment, but ran out of room for the 4 inch ducting to the turbo inlets. Compesated a little by cutting out the outside of the radiator braces on each side to flow more cool air into the compartment...best I could figure. Wayne

AMEN Doc/Pete! and no, Doc, it's never "Too Much" ) Wayne

Thanks for the kudo's, guys...will be running MSD timing retard indexed from the boost in the hat. The EMS itself is based off a Ford Mustang EEC IV computer and sensors. Trust me, that 408 turbo will be plenty bad! Actually, buZy, I have to 'fess up...I crunched the front end putting it on a trailer for the last SEZ and cut the bottom off. I still have to re-install another air dam to keep at least some of the air from underneath the car as well as create a low pressure area under the front end to aid in getting air through the intercooler and especially the radiator now that the intercooler is blocking some air. Wayne

Will do...by the looks of your signature, you have some pretty wild stuff yourself..!! )

Hey Clifton... Max 10-12 lbs of boost Turbonetics.. .98 AR turbine/.70 AR compressor 9" Ford (currently w/4.11's. Changing gears to 3.55's) M&H street/drag 29X13.5X15 Wayne

Stony...just adding the twin turbo system and everything that goes with it to what was already there. Had to re-jig the computer, change the MAF from on top of the throttle body to in-line and calibrate for the larger injectors, add boost indexed fuel regulator and stuff it in the Z-car...what fun we have!! ) Deja...sure appreciate the vote of confidence...you know I HAVE to make this work or you folks will never let me live it down!!!! Wayne

Some pics of progress on the hot rod. Still got some clearance challenges t work out, but no worries...it will work. You can see where I had to clearance the strut towers and driver-side valve cover. Wouldn't have had to do the valve cover if they weren't tall to clear the stud girdle. You will also note the passenger turbo is higher than the driver side. No had to use a spacer as there was no other way to get enough clearance on that side to clear with the motor offset 1" toward the passenger side. Banks designed the system to work without an intercooler, but I'm running more compession than he, so I wanted the safety net. Besides, who knows where this will lead? ) More to follow as I get more done. Not a huge amount of room for the down-pipes, but will have to have patience and work them down through. Wayne

Having recently taken a set of S&S 1 3/4 inch long tube headers off my SBC 240Z, I can tell you unequivocally, the ones in the picture won't remotely fit that combo through '78. Wayne

My Lord, Rick!!! you aiming to be the first Z on the moon? That is one bad setup! I'm going to stick with what I've been working on for now (remember my Ford EEC IV?) I have that working well and just got the re-programmed stuff back..MAF is programmed to the injector size and the computer is programmed to meet AFR at all levels based on air flow. I have a couple of other fuel injection systems (Holley 950 and Accel DFI) but the Ford system is much less work and I'm basically a lazy person. ) What on earth are you using that setup on? Wayne

Graham28...finally got a chance to see what headers I have...two different models...I have some 1 3/4 S&S long tube ceramic coated that fit a SBC/240Z combo. Lesson's learned...I almost had to take the car apart to get them on...then I got to looking when I took them off and all I did was unbolt the motor mounts from the frame, jack up the engine and take the motor mounts completely off and they pretty much fell out (with some twisting). They didn't do as well for my SBC 454 as I wanted, so they are just sitting here. As I said, I originally had a set of 1 7/8 shorties..they turn out to be Sanderson's and are very well made...part number on the S&S is 5205 and part number on the Sanderson's is CC178. They also have 1 3/4 of the same ilk part number CC134. I have angle plug heads and they allow plenty of room to get at the plugs. Hope this helps the cause. Wayne