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Everything posted by mull
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Despite numerous passes inside the rocker panels using a vaccuum cleaner and compressed air: There's still stuff in there. Not anymore though =)
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Thanks Mike : ) That's a good question. I've tried locating resellers in the US' date=' but haven't found any. Here's some info though: http://www.henkel-lim.se/se/productDetail.php?recid=221 Contact information consumer-ua.norden@henkel.com Tel: 0046 (0)31 750 54 01 Fax: 0046 (0)31 750 54 02 So far, I have only gone through 1 (one) 300ml container ... : )
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Not that I know - but it might be good to know for those who actually have a 318 seat installed: 318 what? E30, E36, E46, E90? Measurements might not be the same on all models
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Olderthanme's early 260 worklog(run 56k!!!)
mull replied to OlderThanMe's topic in Miscellaneous Tech
I have the same airdam - like you say, it's very flexible : ) However, I think some previous idiot owner used a saw to cut away the turn indicator mounts. Do you think you could manage removing one of your indicators and snapping a picture of what it looks like? Thanks -
Pics of the day :
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Olderthanme's early 260 worklog(run 56k!!!)
mull replied to OlderThanMe's topic in Miscellaneous Tech
Hey, nice video : ) Feels good to be of some inspiration to other Z-nuts Keep up the good work! Looking forward to the next video -
Latest batch of pics "Forgot" to remove the old "trolley" wheels before paint. No worries though. More paint later on - once they're gone. Sent off, back home. Currently installed in the rotissery - waiting for the caulk/putty/yada-yada-stuff-to-keep-moisture-dirt-etc-out-of-the-welds-and-seams : )
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Thanks Mike! The reason for not doing the flares right now is that I want either a custom made rear end or that of a Skyline. Either way - I want to model the flares once the new rear end, and the wheels I want to use, are in place in order to get the correct width/design of the flares. The battery tray welds (along with all the other welds/seams/etc) will be covered with Plastic Padding body caulk/putty/whatever-its-called(?) then smoothed with a brush and (sooner or later) recieve a couple of layers paint on top. It won't be 100% smooth, but I don't really care about looks under the hood since this car isn't built to be a show car : ) Here's a picture of the products that will be used for the undercarriage. The stuff in the back labeled "body special" is a thick/rough elastic paint that'll protect undercarriage/wheel arches/etc from stone chips, etc.
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Yeah' date=' that's just the [standox'] epoxy primer. I'll probably make a short video from the paintshop. Hang tight ; ) I have to get my wide angle lens back in order to film properly as well. Lots of more work to be captured on film, so there'll be more videos coming along. Not to worry ; ) more pics: Yeah, I know it's not smooth as a babys bottom - it will be though =) ... And yes - the fender flares will be chopped off eventually and custom made metal flares will be installed in their place. But for now it's heading for bondo. FOR NOW. I promise : )
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YAY! : )))
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Somtimes, it looks so small it makes me wonder if I'm gonna fit in it : )
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Thanks! I know what you mean : ) Before After
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Update : ) Sandblasting No.2 is finished. Here he is, the little bugger : ) Battery tray. Loving it! : ) Drivers side whatever-its-called-mount : D Battery tray and firewall - add some compressed air and sand - ét voila! The floors are longing for some epoxy primer : ) Before and after : ) I love Allblästring! Tomorrow it's time for "Hugo" to say hello to some epoxy primer : )
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23 and counting Not all tapes in this pic... : ) Norway is on my to-do-list.... ; ) I'll have a custom made 10+ point WRX-style cage mounted in the car once it passes its initial registration. Pre-fab cages can be found at JEG's: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=24207&parentCategoryId=10775&langId=-1
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I'd imagine Stonys engine to be out of a R34 (since its a red top), thus not being 15 years old (that is, without the use of time travel) I am by no means a skyline know-it-all, but all the red top RB's I've seen have been housed in a R34. Also, the valve cover with the GT-R print is yet to be seen on a stock R32/33 GTR-engine. Not trying to step on anyones toes here. I was just asking. Thanks for the reply Stony. Now try not to break it
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"update" : ) = monday 24/4 = ~friday 28/4
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Why use a Jun balanced crank instead of balancing the stock crank - since some people run it along 1 200 hp? Just being envious (and curious) - very sweet engine indeed : )
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You need to get some twenties for that green goblin of yours
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Updates have been a bit scarce lately - I know - "Sorry" Last thursday I learned that my 1 year job contract (that expired the next day) wasn't going to be extended - so: no job anymore. No more immature boss. ...and more time for the car! =) The plan is to send the car off to sandblasting again to have some sand sprayed at the new welds, subframe and frame rails - as well as some areas that some parts that were covered up last blasting (f.ex rear hatch hinges). After that, it's off to the paint shop to get some epoxy primer on the body...
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"delphi" = Defi?
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I think you need to re-read the first post : ) Thanks for the pics tho : )
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Thanks a million for the pics! I managed to get my old noodle working' date=' and I figured I might as well go with 2 5/8" gauges in the dash - [b']Boost[/b] - Amp (or Volt) and Fuel Level. Gauges that don't "have to" be in metric scale. I Think I can adapt to PSI for boost instead of BAR if I absolutley have to. Then there's always the possibility of fitting a logger of some kind somewhere in the center to obtain other data, like oil press/oil temp/ water temp/etc, etc : )
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If you get wider rims, usually, you go with wider tires as well (at least, I would). I'll blame my being swedish for saying "rim" instead of "wheel" or "rim + tire" ... I'm sorry. I really didn't think anyone could misinterpret: "Should'nt the rims be about 2" wider? : )" But ok, here goes: I think the rims/tires/wheels should be about 2" wider (towards the edge of the flare) to eliminate/reduce the amount of space between the edge of the wheel and the edge of the flare. To make a long story short: It looks like installing widebody-flares and keeping your stock tires/wheels/rims. : )
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There's about 170 people named "Hallström" in Stockholm' date=' big family More pics would be awesome! Thanks in advance! I'm not. Read the first post thouroughly : ) I WANT 2 5/8" - but Autometer lack metric gauges of that size, that I know of anyway. This is why I'm asking for pictures of 2 1/16" - since Autometer have metric gauges of that size.
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What does anyone elses wheel width have to do with this? It's always the same thing on forums, no matter what language or interest: one can't have an opinion unless they've made something better I would never have that amount of space between the wheel and flares. It just looks silly. Either you don't build your flares/fenders that wide, or you get rims (or spacers) and make up for it. That's my opinion anyway =)