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bunkhouse last won the day on September 18 2019

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  1. Are you sure it's getting fuel? Running for a few minutes and then losing power or dying could be fuel starvation.
  2. Any possibility of oil getting oil on the new clutch disc or pressure plate? I've seen old clutches shudder when they had oil on them.
  3. If the noise goes away when the clutch pedal is pushed down, the noise is coming from the transmission. The disengaged clutch stops the transmission from spinning.
  4. When a stock oil bar is clean. solid and working correctly, the oil coming from the oiler holes lands on the cam lobes at idle.
  5. Interesting. I hadn't heard of a V-12 Z at SEMA. Last year I sold a left door skin to a fellow who was using it on a V-10 Z for the SEMA show.
  6. I'd pull the valve cover and take a good look to see if there's any loose parts.
  7. The folks over at Classic Z Car Club (czcc.com) are very knowledgeable on this subject.
  8. I'd start by checking ground connections.
  9. What is the battery voltage when it's time to add the jump pack? I'd also check everything from the battery to the starter for heat (either a fingertip or infrared sensor) after trying to start it.
  10. I've never seen a release bearing that wasn't smooth, not that it has to be if it fits properly into the diaphragm tangs. Seems like one might hear an occasional click when pressing on the clutch pedal as the bearing meshes with the diaphragm. I'd love to hear the theory behind this supposed improvement. Just had another thought. Is it possible it's supposed to stay meshed with the diaphragm and spin all the time? Which would mean reversing your adjustment.
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