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Everything posted by bunkhouse

  1. It looks new. The only thing I can think of related to your work is the trans. input shaft bushing located in the center of the flywheel.
  2. Do you feel the shake in the steering wheel or your butt? Trying to isolate the problem. Front or rear.
  3. I always found the S30 suspension to be very predictable. A Sunbeam Tiger was a handful and defines snap oversteer to me.
  4. quickanddirtysutuning/classiczcars will get you running. The folks over at ClassicZCars are still using these carbs, even the flat tops.
  5. No pedal pressure is usually a hydraulic problem. Pull the rubber boots from the ends of both the master and slave cylinder. If there is any fluid inside the boots the cylinders are leaking. I always replace both at the same time. If one is leaking, the other is soon to follow. Another possibility is a cracked or broken release fork
  6. You're on the right track. Vacuum leaks must be eliminated before one can tune any carb. If you have any specific questions about flat tops, ZUP at Classic Zcars is the person to ask.
  7. Don't throw them away yet. A few of the folks over at Classic Zcar Club (classiczcars.com) are very knowledgeable about flat tops and state they are actually superior to round tops in many ways. The best thread on the subject is "We're bringin' back the Flat Tops".
  8. @chassis87 I realize now the Hitachi SUs you're referring to are the flat top SUs used in 73 and 74. If you head over to CZCC.com there are a couple of flat top experts and an excellent thread called " Bringing back the flat tops" that discusses parts, rebuilding and the different models of flat-top hitachis and why these carbs can be superior to the round-top SUs.
  9. @chassis87 ZTherapy specializes in Hitachi SUs.
  10. ZTherapy in Salem, Oregon is my "go to" for parts and advice. They also have a DVD called "Just SUs" . I highly recommend it along with the SU kits.
  11. The 165s are satisfactory. If the valves haven't been adjusted for a while, try that and check the compression again. If you're sure the valve adjustment is fine, squirt a tablespoon or so of oil into the cylinders and take the c. test again. If the numbers raise significantly the problem lies in the rings. If the numbers stay about the same the trouble is in the valves.
  12. I'd start with a sniff test. You should be able to tell if it's fuel. Is the oil transparent or does it look like salad dressing or mayonnaise? Is it losing coolant? I'd also run a compression test.
  13. If it dies when you turn the key from start position to the run position it may be the ignition switch. It's a common problem with old ignition switches.
  14. IMO, buy it back. ASAP. Are you going to feel more regret if you buy it or if you don't. If you don't buy it you'll forever wonder what if.
  15. Probably a broken camshaft. Not common but not unheard of. A member at CZCC had one break in the center just a few months back. As I recall he discovered misalignment in the cam towers likely caused from improper installation.
  16. Take it out and drive it. Some (hopefully all) of the clunk should have gone away with the new u-joints.
  17. IMHO the 600 cfm is much better for street driving. If you're interested in pure acceleration, go with the 750.
  18. @kceBill's Datsun Shoppe Etc. in Clackamas has been working on Z cars since the early seventies.
  19. I forgot we working a 280. I was going back in my memory to my 240 days. I'd look into getting a repair quote from a drive shaft shop.
  20. I agree with you. U-joints sound like the source of the clunk. There should be absolutely NO perceptible movement in the u-joints in ANY direction. They will clunk when reversing or going forward and vibrate at high speed. Don't replace them with cheap ones. Nissan and Spicer are both good quality. I believe Nissan sells u-joint c-clips in different thicknesses to tighten up the slack I see in the 1st video.
  21. Yes one can test the cap for continuity with an ohm meter. Be sure to check the rotor for continuity too. I've read about some rotors having a resister buried in them that can go bad.
  22. It's not OEM. What's on the back side of it? I'm going to guess it's a kill a switch.
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