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bunkhouse last won the day on September 18 2019

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  1. Which carbs does it have on it now? Flat tops or round tops and what seems to be the problem?
  2. A few more questions. Was the throttle wide open during the test? All the spark plugs out? Screw-in connection on the gauge or rubber cone? Rubber hose used on the gauge and the length vs. metal tubing? Did you turn the engine over until the highest reading was obtained? I'd like to see it somewhere in the 165-170 range but 160ish is darned close and any, or a combination of the variables mentioned above could lower the readings slightly. Also I'm not an expert on all the compression ratios throughout the years. Were any of the cylinders considerably lower than the others is what you re
  3. Before you assume it needs a complete rebuild, know that these blocks last a long time. I've seen these engines with over 100,000 miles and the bore hone marks are still visible. A common cause of excess oil usage, aside from leaks, is bad valve guide seals. These can be replaced without removing the head or cam. Have you re-checked the valve lash and done a wet and dry compression test to confirm it needs a rebuild?
  4. Did you hold the throttle wide open during the tests? If not, retest and turn the engine over throttle wide open, until the c. gauge needle doesn't go any higher. Then put a tablespoon or so of oil in each cylinder and retest. If the compression raises significantly during the wet test, it means the compression is escaping past the rings. If the compression stays about the same the problem is in the valves.
  5. A quick test for water in the oil is put one drop of the oil on hot (+ 212 f. ) metal. A hot exhaust manifold will work, If the drop of oil smokes, it's pure oil. If it smokes and sizzles, the sizzle is caused by water.
  6. I'd start with a compression test. and check the spark plugs for water fouling. I'm not familiar with the term "bag of spanners" but I'm going to assume it's not a good thing and there is a lot of valve lash noise as well as poor running. It would be a good idea to reset the valve lash prior to the compression test.
  7. Get rid of any and all rust ASAP and keep an eye on any new spots. The sheet metal on these cars is thin and it doesn't take long for rust to eat holes in it. Beautiful Z. 1970 0r 71? It's identical to my first Z, right down to the wheels. If you're going to leave it stock checkout classiczcars.com. They tend to focus on original equipment and problems.
  8. Check over at classiczcars.com. There are many people over there that help with stock 280 injection problems.
  9. Next time you fire it up watch the carb pistons to see if they raise to the same height.
  10. Raise both pistons with your fingers and let them drop. You should feel considerable resistance when raising them and they should both fall at the same rate and hit bottom at nearly same time.
  11. Two interesting problems. Plugs are black, idle is too high. Jonbill is correct about too much air causing the high idle and it must be getting too much fuel judging by the plug color. Describe your carb rebuild. What did you take apart and reassemble? Did you interchange any parts from one carb to the other?
  12. A pic of the firewall VIN from the inside would confirm the originality. The inside is rarely finished as well as the outside when the VIN had been changed.
  13. I'd use a voltmeter and search through the circuits in the fuse block.
  14. What needles are you using and have you set the float levels. The float level is the primary mixture adjustment.
  15. It looks new. The only thing I can think of related to your work is the trans. input shaft bushing located in the center of the flywheel.
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