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About bunkhouse

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  1. Start with a complete tune-up including a valve adjustment. You can listen to the injectors click by using a screwdriver as a stethoscope. The pointy end touches the injector, the handle lightly pushing on your ear. There's a troubleshooting section in the factory manual that systematically goes through each elec. circuit. Most people reviving an old Bosch EFI have found it very useful. It's available as a download at classiczcars.com.
  2. Try asking over at classiczcars.com. There are a few owners that know all about flat tops and love them. There's a good thread titled "We're bringin' back the Flat Tops".
  3. Classic Z Car Club (www.classiczcars.com) is a good place to seek help with the original fuel injection. They deal with this sort of thing all the time.
  4. I'd arm myself with an ice pick and crawl under it. Anything that looks suspicious, gets poked. Even a small blister under the paint can hide a rust hole.
  5. Years ago I had the dreaded clunk. I found the source by putting the car on jack stands, started it up, pulled the e-brake and had a friend shift into first and reverse while releasing the clutch. I was under the car and saw the nose of the differential going up and down as he let out the clutch. New bushings cured the problem.
  6. Many Z owners have used the 1st gen. Mazda RX7 (80-81) elec. fuel pumps. They are quiet, cheap and avail. at any chain parts store.
  7. I replaced a starter that tested OK at the parts store. Much like yours, the solenoid would click but the starter motor wouldn't turn the engine over. The problem was the starter motor wouldn't put out enough oomph to turn the engine over but it would spin like crazy on the test bench. The tests have no way of putting a load on the starter.
  8. I'd put a starter on the engine and do a compression test to verify the compression is good. If it is good, as reported, I'd leave the head on.
  9. If the original sender is corroded but still has elec. continuity, You can soak the sender in CLR for twenty-four to forty-eight hours and it will remove all the corrosion. I've revived a couple of senders that were so corroded the float wouldn't move.
  10. Ask over at Classic Z Car Club (classiczcars.com). They have a lot of members on the east coast and all Z owners hoard parts.
  11. Slide the pilot bushing onto the trans. input shaft and check the fit. In the pic above that shows the pilot bushing installed, what is that silver, shiny object just below the brass bushing?
  12. Describe "the same spot". Anything unique about that spot? Hill, curve, the same amount of miles till it dies?
  13. Water may have come with the recent fuel fill. Underground fuel tanks usually have a bit of water in the bottom. The water in the bottom can get stirred up when fresh gas is pumped into the underground tank from above. If you're filling your tank at the same time as the underground tank is being filled, water can be pumped into your tank. My Dad wouldn't stop at a station that had a tanker in the lot. I'd try a bottle of Heet in the tank and see if the problem returns.
  14. I'm glad to see there's enough bolt left to grab or weld onto. That simplifies things. I've found that alternating heat and cold along with any of the methods suggested above will usually free them up. I use a propane torch to heat the bolt and surrounding area. Then apply cold to the bolt only, as much as possible. CRC Freeze-Off works well but I've also used dry ice and plain ice. I have better luck using good Channel-Locks than Vise-Grips. If it won't crack loose on the first attempt, try turning it in(clockwise) then reverse direction. Keep turning it both ways while spraying penetrant onto it. The theory is the cold will shrink the bolt allowing penetrating fluid to seep into the threads.
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