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About bunkhouse

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  1. IMHO the 600 cfm is much better for street driving. If you're interested in pure acceleration, go with the 750.
  2. @kceBill's Datsun Shoppe Etc. in Clackamas has been working on Z cars since the early seventies.
  3. I forgot we working a 280. I was going back in my memory to my 240 days. I'd look into getting a repair quote from a drive shaft shop.
  4. I agree with you. U-joints sound like the source of the clunk. There should be absolutely NO perceptible movement in the u-joints in ANY direction. They will clunk when reversing or going forward and vibrate at high speed. Don't replace them with cheap ones. Nissan and Spicer are both good quality. I believe Nissan sells u-joint c-clips in different thicknesses to tighten up the slack I see in the 1st video.
  5. Yes one can test the cap for continuity with an ohm meter. Be sure to check the rotor for continuity too. I've read about some rotors having a resister buried in them that can go bad.
  6. It's not OEM. What's on the back side of it? I'm going to guess it's a kill a switch.
  7. Start with a complete tune-up including a valve adjustment. You can listen to the injectors click by using a screwdriver as a stethoscope. The pointy end touches the injector, the handle lightly pushing on your ear. There's a troubleshooting section in the factory manual that systematically goes through each elec. circuit. Most people reviving an old Bosch EFI have found it very useful. It's available as a download at classiczcars.com.
  8. Try asking over at classiczcars.com. There are a few owners that know all about flat tops and love them. There's a good thread titled "We're bringin' back the Flat Tops".
  9. Classic Z Car Club (www.classiczcars.com) is a good place to seek help with the original fuel injection. They deal with this sort of thing all the time.
  10. I'd arm myself with an ice pick and crawl under it. Anything that looks suspicious, gets poked. Even a small blister under the paint can hide a rust hole.
  11. Years ago I had the dreaded clunk. I found the source by putting the car on jack stands, started it up, pulled the e-brake and had a friend shift into first and reverse while releasing the clutch. I was under the car and saw the nose of the differential going up and down as he let out the clutch. New bushings cured the problem.
  12. Many Z owners have used the 1st gen. Mazda RX7 (80-81) elec. fuel pumps. They are quiet, cheap and avail. at any chain parts store.
  13. I replaced a starter that tested OK at the parts store. Much like yours, the solenoid would click but the starter motor wouldn't turn the engine over. The problem was the starter motor wouldn't put out enough oomph to turn the engine over but it would spin like crazy on the test bench. The tests have no way of putting a load on the starter.
  14. I'd put a starter on the engine and do a compression test to verify the compression is good. If it is good, as reported, I'd leave the head on.
  15. If the original sender is corroded but still has elec. continuity, You can soak the sender in CLR for twenty-four to forty-eight hours and it will remove all the corrosion. I've revived a couple of senders that were so corroded the float wouldn't move.
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