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bunkhouse last won the day on September 18

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  1. The 165s are satisfactory. If the valves haven't been adjusted for a while, try that and check the compression again. If you're sure the valve adjustment is fine, squirt a tablespoon or so of oil into the cylinders and take the c. test again. If the numbers raise significantly the problem lies in the rings. If the numbers stay about the same the trouble is in the valves.
  2. I'd start with a sniff test. You should be able to tell if it's fuel. Is the oil transparent or does it look like salad dressing or mayonnaise? Is it losing coolant? I'd also run a compression test.
  3. If it dies when you turn the key from start position to the run position it may be the ignition switch. It's a common problem with old ignition switches.
  4. IMO, buy it back. ASAP. Are you going to feel more regret if you buy it or if you don't. If you don't buy it you'll forever wonder what if.
  5. Probably a broken camshaft. Not common but not unheard of. A member at CZCC had one break in the center just a few months back. As I recall he discovered misalignment in the cam towers likely caused from improper installation.
  6. Take it out and drive it. Some (hopefully all) of the clunk should have gone away with the new u-joints.
  7. IMHO the 600 cfm is much better for street driving. If you're interested in pure acceleration, go with the 750.
  8. @kceBill's Datsun Shoppe Etc. in Clackamas has been working on Z cars since the early seventies.
  9. I forgot we working a 280. I was going back in my memory to my 240 days. I'd look into getting a repair quote from a drive shaft shop.
  10. I agree with you. U-joints sound like the source of the clunk. There should be absolutely NO perceptible movement in the u-joints in ANY direction. They will clunk when reversing or going forward and vibrate at high speed. Don't replace them with cheap ones. Nissan and Spicer are both good quality. I believe Nissan sells u-joint c-clips in different thicknesses to tighten up the slack I see in the 1st video.
  11. Yes one can test the cap for continuity with an ohm meter. Be sure to check the rotor for continuity too. I've read about some rotors having a resister buried in them that can go bad.
  12. It's not OEM. What's on the back side of it? I'm going to guess it's a kill a switch.
  13. Start with a complete tune-up including a valve adjustment. You can listen to the injectors click by using a screwdriver as a stethoscope. The pointy end touches the injector, the handle lightly pushing on your ear. There's a troubleshooting section in the factory manual that systematically goes through each elec. circuit. Most people reviving an old Bosch EFI have found it very useful. It's available as a download at classiczcars.com.
  14. Try asking over at classiczcars.com. There are a few owners that know all about flat tops and love them. There's a good thread titled "We're bringin' back the Flat Tops".
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