PUSHER

http://www.allzcar.com/

http://www.allzcar.com/, I've started using this guy when I need random stuff and don't want to go to a junkyard 2 hours away.

will check asap, thanks.

Have you talked to people who have a simular swap and asked what headers they used? If you think you can do a cheaper steering reroute versus new headers then go for it. Seems like a headache if a different set of headers would work.

go Texas.

Nah, the bolt threads into the bracket and then a nut is put on that bolt, sandwiching the bracket. I couldn't see the nut so when I felt the resistance I figured it was good ol 30 year rust and kept going. The bolt died.

Took out steering rack and as far as I can tell its fine. I've been able to get ahold of the steering shaft bushing and the steering wheel at the same time and find no play so I'm pretty sure column is alright. Sheered one of the rack bolts(who knew there was a nut on top) so I'm waiting to get a ride to a hardware store so I can put it back together, align it, and crash it into a wall. Thanks for the help guys.

lol yes, I understand, when I say 'when moving' I mean around my campus parking lot. I'll give denny's method a shot today.

Had some midterms last week, finally able to get under it. And I cant find anything visibly wrong. Although I'm not sure what a steering arm is(unless its the piece that goes through the engine bay and connects steering wheel to rack.) Anyhow, what I've noticed. -When parked steering works as it should as far as I can tell. -When moving. When the wheel is centered and I turn it clockwise I immediately get steering input and turn right.(good) However, when the steering wheel is centered and I turn it counter clockwise, I have to turn it till about the 9 o'clock position until I get any steering input and turn left.(bad) I've gone through the above checklist and am looking for any ideas before I take off the rack tomorrow and see if it is broken.

Please let this be sarcasm. To the OP, get a 240sx, I just got back from a drift event yesterday in my z and its a pretty big headache versus a 240sx. You can say you want be hardcore and have the harder car to drive, I did the same thing and now regret it. Parts are also more expensive/more labor to install for the z compared to a 240sx.

I drove 100 miles like this+ rain+ night+no defroster at about 45mph and should be dead. I've used whatever lives/ 1 ups etc. that I have left. I really wish my car would have just died so I'd have no choice but use AAA. Symptoms -When driving straight the steering wheel is at 12 o clock (sometimes) -When driving straight the steering wheel is at 9 o clock (sometimes) (It would float between these two points and the steering wheel would have a lot of play/wheels would track on every bump/puddle) I want to say a tierod fell off but I stopped and turned my wheels at full lock and got out and saw that they had turned. I'll check tomorrow whens its bright/dry. I also noticed that the dust boots to the steering rack are pretty much gone/old/dead so I was wondering if my steering rack(manual) could have died?(doesn't seem like it should since its mechanical) Any advise would be appreciated, I'm glad to be typing this right now.

Point wheels straight, take off steering wheel+hub, put on steering wheel centered. You'll be able to turn your wheels slightly more in one direction than the other but who cares about that.

Cheapest way is just springs like the above guys link, this is assuming your shocks are decent and still work. If not you might need new shocks. Lowering your car 1-1.5'' isn't going to effect camber much. What your saying about struts hats is the top piece of your strut[it bolts to the shock, atop the spring and has threaded bolts that strut bars attach to etc.]. On a 280z you can move/buy another set of front strut hats and bolt them on the rear to lower it[this is because the front hats are shorter than the back and they're compatable]. But, to have a shorter front hat you would need to replace it with camber plates or something[which require cutting and possibly welding]. -afterthought- Might not want to go with the above springs because they are designed with an l28. Might need to find somewhere to order custom spring rates.

Seems like the only thing electical is the clutch switch, which wouldn't need the ecu. Everything else is mechanical, not sure if there is some oddball sensor needed for the ecu that it wont work without, hopefully someone can give a 100% yes or no.

Since you guys were talking about oil return lines, where do you get the oil from for the turbo? Is there somewhere to T it off from?

you wont really be able to tune the higher cc injectors with the na ecu for lower rpm so you will be running rich.

Is rotating the throttle body an option? If you could, seems 90 degrees clockwise so that point A is on the top, then play/cut/weld/rotate A until it works? Might have to extend B a bit so the linkage would clear? Vertical throttlebody might be against fluid dynamic laws or something though.

Thanks for the pics, but I have a question. You said you ran the hobbs switch on the power side for the csv. Where did you get power from?(random wire from battery?) You make it sound like you ran it in series with whatever power wire there was, which would mean it would only turn on when you were starting(cold start) and you were hitting 3psi.

So your telling me I don't have 6 injectors but technically 7?(75 stock l28) And that instead of getting larger injectors you just use the csv injector as extra fuel? Where is the csv injector, near the throttlebody somewhere? Appreciate your responses.

Hows a hobbs switch work? Whats a csv? and what does putting a hobbs switch on the csv do?

So, what'd you do to set up your na ecu right?

Circle/dirt track cars see a little more abuse than an autox car, so... yes?

fixed. I'm going to have to say an elbow of some form that angles the turbo up and out more, but then you need to worry about turbo and intake contact.(what prox said basically) Grinding probably won't give enough clearance and you'll end up hearing a death rattle when the car is moving.

What is the gas guzzler option?

home depot lip= garden trim from home depot Nice pics. Does your school like you pulling up and parking in the lawn?