tube80z

There's some good advice from John. I would also recommend that whenever you do this you spray weldthru (3M product) on the area to be welded. This is a very important step in making sure you keep rust away. One good point about seem welding that hasn't been mentioned is that if you ever wreck you car it is much easier to pull the parts back out. If you have simple spot welds they will often pop when you try and do this. I would recommend seam welding on any car the will see a V8 or hard use. Many times the spot welds will not all be holding on our older cars. This helps to ensure that the panels are all glued together. Cary

I have the GC AD inserts and I'nm generally happy with them. The bump adjuster as three positions but it makes little difference which position you use. There's just not much adjustment. The rebound is very adjustable and this what I spend the most time messing with. Given your location I would recommend a set of Konis or similar with the digressive valving. I think being able to get parts in a timely manner would be very good. A local shock expert told me that Koni's would have been cheaper than what I paid for the AD inserts but provided no real details. So you have a lukewarm recommendation from me. They do work, there's little bump adjustment, and parts are hard to get if you need them. otherwise they do work well and will allow you to run proper spring rates for a racing Z. Cary

Actually you want the control arms to be very near level to work best. This will help to reduce the jacking forces and scrub the tires less. If you want to adjust camber it's best to add it statically as you can't really get much back from the suspension without compromising other items worse. Cary