TOMAHAWKZ

I have an A/C delete bracket and pulley on my engine. I decided not to keep the A/C because my car has no roof! Go figure the guy that designed my kit bulit a removeable roof a few years later which I now also own so I may do a retrofit and put a/c back in before the car goes off for paint. My problem is I can not put the a/c on the top of the motor due to hood restrictions and side pipe headers are in the way.. But where theres a problem... There is always a fix.. Stephen Flying Dutchman Motorwerks

Shortbed454 and getz, where are you guys located in AZ, I have a shop at my house where my ongoing lt1 conversion is taking place and I have built a set of headers for it but they are for side pipe exhaust, full lenght of course. I would like to fab up a prototype full length header for the jtr conversion but my car has been modified so much I cant use it for the fitment of full length headers. If I can fab some up and build a jig I will start producing them for the masses since this seems to be an ongoing problem for everyone. I am in Queen Creek so let me know... Stephen Flying Dutchman Motorwerks Queen Creek AZ

Any of you guys out there interrested in a power steering delete bracket and pulley set up to fit in the stock location of your LT1 swap. I am currently in the proto type stage and I am trying to guage how much interest is out there.

Paul could yo use an exhaust flex connector? They are shorter and have the steel braid around the outside but the inside has that accordian look to it. and I would think if they could be used to absorb flex movement you could use them for expansion/contraction as well. I used them for sidepipes on my Tomahawk due to the fact the side pipes are now rigid mounted and I needed something to flex to prevent cracking.. Just a thought Stephen

Ive seen this a few times, usually when the trans mount is upgraded to a polyurathane type due to it being worn out from a leaking rear transmission seal and the motor mounts go unchanged or are replaced with the stock type. The engine with then deflect more than the trans and wala broken bellhousing. Makes a real neat sound until you figure out what just happened.

Ahh, for those that are running the ls1, magnacharger is the answer it mounts to the top of the motor and is driven from the rear via a bearing supported jackshaft. should fit under the hood quite nicely but they are pricey about 5 grand but it does have the intercooler built into it, there tech dept says they have one for the lt1 also but its for a marine application they also said its being adapted for the lt1 f body cars but when I talked to them they did not have a release date. "If this thing had wings it would fly"

Dude, been there done that at the same age. I got 2 words for ya "run away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!" Dont get all caught up in chicks, finish you school first so as to obtain a good paying job, this you will not regret I assure you. Then go find ya good lady friend. I had some of the best times of my life, so far while in my mid 20's. Theres lots of stuff to see and plenty of people to meet in this world. You will always have something in your heart for her thats just the way life is but the good memories will always be there and the bad ones will make you wiser!! Tim I dont know how old ya are but do you remember the Australian Beach Club or Geckos in H.B. ?Lots of good times to be had and plenty of Girls Girls Girls....

8) I am voting for Kerry, In my opinion President Bush is anti labor although he says otherwise. His actions toward the maintenance personel in the aviation industry have allowed the big corporations to all but bust the unions and drive wages to new lows here in the U.S. All in the name of corporate profit and big executive compensation packages. This is by no means an insult to auto mechanics, as I myself am trying to start my own business but ask yourself this: the next time you get on a jet to fly at 35,000 ft why does an auto mechanic earn more than an aircraft mechanic? Doesn't make much sense but all the government regulating bodies in my opinion have been bought off in the name of corporate profit, they dont care about your safety.. I am 34

I just started welding stainless with my lincoln mig, went to the welding supplier and I asked him about shielding gas for stainless, he told me I needed tri mix to do it right he claimed it would keep the weld really clean which is important with stainless, makes sweet looking welds. He also refered me to the lincoln web site for more info on shielding gas, it gave alot of info which will help you get the most consistent good looking welds with the proper penetration. The esab web site has some good info too. As for welding sheet metal on cars do youself a favor buy a good quality welder which has rehostat type adjustment stay away from the the ones that click into detent youll be happy you did. Don't bother with flux core type wire on a mig its nice if you have to take your welder out to your job site but if your in a garage get the gas. I used flux core for 2 years and then bought the gas set up should have bought it from day 1 the added expense will pay off in better welds and less clean up/grinding, remember cleanup causes more heat and thus warping. 1 more tip if you are welding sheet metal get a spool of .025 wire with matching size tip, the thinner wire puts less heat to the piece, better results, less burn thru, less warping. TomahawkZ

Hey great score on the cf but be careful selling it as aircraft grade even if it came from a place that builds aircraft. I work in the industry and FAA gets real anal about the tracability of that stuff, just put some kind of disclaimer in your add on ebay. I'd also be careful when working or cutting that stuff, its not the best for you lungs or other body parts for that matter.. We are mandated to have down draft tables and other vent equipment to keep the fibers from getting into your skin.. I guess its not so bad in the roll form but once you put the resin to it it is nasty stuff..

HAVE YOU CHECKED TO SEE IF THE ENGINE IS STATICLY TIMED RIGHT. SOUNDS LIKE THE TIMING BELT/CHAIN HAS JUMPED A TOOTH OR TWO.

POSSIBLY SOME AIR IN THE SYSTEM???

your o2 sensor probably fixed your problem but only temporarily. I had a senta with the same problem and it drove me nuts, set the same fault code as yours, anyway I talked to a guy at the parts store and he told me it was most likely my #4 injector leaking internally and wreaking havoc with the rest of the sensors. he told me its a common item on the nissans with 4 bangers in them something about it getting hotter then the rest and when it heats up the plunger in the injector starts sticking if i can remember correctly. i replaced the #4 injector at his suggestion and the problem went away. would have kept the car but then the a/c compressor took a dump and i didnt want to sink any more money into it. great commuter car kinda fun to drive too.. good luck

The little check valve you are all talking about is a residual pressure valve. They are installed to keep the fluid in the lines instead of making its way back to the master cylinder this prevents you from having to double pump the pedal to build pressure. They are usually installed in both rear drum and rear disk brake set ups but the amount of pressure they keep in the lines is different. I believe the drum brakes use a 10 lb valve and the disk set ups use a 2 lb vlv. If you convert to disk in the rear and dont change the residual pressure your brakes will drag for sure causing 2 things excessive premature wear of the pads and disks and they will get hot and we all know what happes when they get hot they dont work!! They are also used when you mount a master cylinder below the height of the calipers, like on some old hot rods where the stickum below the floor keeps the fluid in the lines. I assume they are installed in one of the valves in the engine compt. but Idid not look for mine as I removed all the stock brake equipment and went with aftermarket stuff

John this might sound wierd but the rod may be too long. If the m/c pushrod does not allow the piston in the m/c to come all the way back some of the passages will not be uncovered allowing the fluid to get behind the seal that builds the pressure when the pedal is depressed. for some good info on brake set up try the wilwood brakes or tilton web sites. they have some good info on proportioning valves also. Alot of people have them when they dont need them others have them and dont know how to adjust them. let us know what you find.. Tomahawk Z 77 280z with a rebody and reverse mount wilwood mastercylinders.......

i may have mis understood your question. are the metal plates in the center of the gasket or at the ends where the water passages are? if they are in the center labrats suggestion is correct.

the voltage drop when you turn on your signal sounds like a ground problem, try checking your grounds for corrosion and make sure where they connect is clean bare metal. also how old is your battery ground cable? they have a bad tendency to hide corrosion inside the strands, white powdery looking stuff evil will cause all kinds of electrical system havoc. remember new feul injection technology uses milli volts and milli amps so they can use smaller wires to save weight in the newer cars, this in turn makes connections of the utmost importance.. let me know what ya find...

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Leave them in place. I believe they began putting them in to somewhat restrict the flow thru the intake on fuel injected motors, for what reason is a good question maybe someone else can chime in but gm engineers usually have a somewhat good reason behind their thinking..at least the powerplant group. cant say much for their body design people..

I assume this is your first engine build? First and foremost you need to find out why there is no oil getting up to the rockers. Did you check the distance of the oil pump pickup to the bottom of the oil pan? this is important. too much you could suck in air, not enough and it might have problems picking up the oil. Did you prime the engine before trying to start it. Its a good idea and worth the extra effort. as for the compression issue and the no spark, it sounds like your cam may not be installed exactly right. double check by bringing the #1 cylinder up on top dead center, as the piston is coming up the intake valve should be closing and the exhaust valve should already be closed. if this is not happening you will have to re time the cam to the crank. let me know what you find..also what book did you use to do your assy. if any

Jamie if your coating is flaking off you might be able to get them warrantied. jet hot will recoat them for free if it was due to their mistake.. Thomahawkz

Dude trash that harbor freight helmet if your still using it. you will regret it a few years down the line. even if you can't afford a really good welder make sure you protect your eyes with a quality helmet with the proper lenses for the welding your doing. I have too many friends that regret going the cheap way.. First thing to go will be the night vision...

indy engines are out there available for purchase. i went to the vince granatelli auction about a month and a half ago and they were auctioning complete engines and parts for what would be considered cheap money in the indy car circle. way too much for my blood. if you remember granatelli's dad was the guy behind stp oil treatment and they campaigned 4 indy cars in the early 90's. so keep looking. you can also check "kruse auctions" i believe the web site is http://www.kruse.com they are the ones that did the granatelli auction and they are involved with alot of racing/auto auctions..... good luck in your quest for a indy motor..

Danno I hope you are headed in the direction of general or cororate aviation. I work for a major carrier and the current outlook is not so good unless your interrested in working crazy shifts for 12 dollars an hour. As far as lt1 swaps go my tomahawk is currently getting a heart transplant with a t56 backing it up. currently playing around with the headers and wiring.. its starting to look pretty cool. well good luck with your carreer change..