JMortensen

Sounds like you want AZC or MM brakes. I'd go AZC due to Ross's spotty customer service.

I've got a pretty unique setup. JSK rears (like AZC), but the fronts I got off of Austin (240zhoke). They are a custom aluminum hub with a 12.2 x .83 vented rotor. He was using a Buick GN front caliper (popular with the roundy round crowd), I figured out that a Wilwood caliper fit perfectly. The rotor AND hub weighs 13.X lbs. I'm not sure that the smaller rotors will hold up for track work, but should be more than enough for autox. I also have the JSK front setup with stock hub and 12.2 x 1.25 rotors if I need for the track. If I recall the stock iron hub weighs 13 lbs and the rotor weighs 12. For comparison sake, I believe the iron Cobra rotor weighs 25 lbs all by itself, but you can get an aluminum hat and iron rotor setup that cuts some weight off of those too. EDIT--Brakes and their use really isn't a function of the motor you have, so this post should really be in the BWSC forum. It's a lot more dependent on the tires. If you have 10" slicks and an L24 you can put a LOT more heat in the brakes than you can with a supercharged LS7 on 195/60/14 street tires.

A lot of that bolt on factory crap for trucks doesn't actually do anything except look tough. Just looking at that pic I'd be surprised if you got more than an inch out of those.

If you want a 944 look, reaction research makes the 940Z kit which I think is pretty awesome. I'm betting that if it wasn't wide enough, those 944 flares would go on it a lot easier than they would the stock Z body... http://www.reactionresearch.com/940z.html

Flares are like tattoos. They require commitment.

That all happened pretty fast. No fire systems in Abu Dhabi?

Triples are already a lot of weight hanging off the side of the head, and that valve cover doesn't make the lightest airbox. If you haven't already, you might consider a strut from the block to the manifold in the front and back. Pretty cool looking though!

Remember kids, keep your seatbelts tight!

Gear lash necessarily causes some play in the yoke, that is normal. If you want to measure it to find out if yours is within spec, you need to pull the cover and measure backlash at the ring gear with a dial indicator. If you pulled the cover on both diffs and measured, you would find lash in both.

Have you checked the reaction disk? A typical complaint is that the pedal is spongy like there is air in the line, then right at then end the brakes lock up with no pedal feel at all. May be that you adjusted out all the spongy and you're straight to the locking brakes.

I've also been to Streets and not to the big track so I have a question. Don't most of the offs at the big track happen in 8 and 9, and aren't the speeds in those turns really high? I saw a Ferrari go off in 8 at very high speed while running at Streets. HUGE dust cloud, car went up over an embankment, it was a bad deal. All of the offs that I saw at Streets were in the slow areas where speeds where you'd be seriously hauling ass if you were doing 70 mph. Never seen a wreck at the end of the straight, which is the only place that you would hit that speed in my car, although I could see it being more likely when racing wheel to wheel.

Recaro brackets bolt to the stock mounts. I believe Corbeau seat brackets do too. I would hold off on the POR until you have your new seat and bracket figured out. One problem with most of the aftermarket brackets is that they are generic. If you put Recaro brackets in a Z and bolt the seat to them the thigh part of the seat is leaned back WAY too much. I cut and welded the bracket (the Recaro piece, not the Datsun part) to fix lower the front of the seat, then set the rear at its highest setting. The problem with this is that you end up sitting higher in the car than you would otherwise, which could lead to helmet clearance issues if you're really tall. I was able to get away with it at 6' tall. If your Datsun seat mounts are broken, I'd find the seat you want and then either buy the adapter and set it in the car and see if it's worth fixing the seat mount, or don't buy the adapter and fabricate your own mount that gets the seat to a comfortable angle.

I don't think you're going to redrill the flanges for a 280ZXT to fit the 300ZXT or vice versa. They're a lot different. Diameter, space for the stub axle nut inside the adapter, etc. The 280ZXT and the 300ZX NA have the same bolt pattern, at least that was what was reported by the one guy who said that he cut off 4" off the NA shaft and resplined it and it worked. I don't have the 280ZXT adapters, but I did buy a 300ZX NA shaft, and it looked to me like if you tried to cut 4" off IIRC and use it with the 300ZXT adapter, the shaft would be too short. Here is that post: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/100094-cv-axle-discussion/page__view__findpost__p__951914

The swaybar thing is real, but the car has to be set up properly to run no sway bar and still have the right amount of body roll and have balanced handling. This usually means stiffer springs than you would run on a car with sway bars front and rear. I've heard the LSD argument both ways, but for my money I will put an LSD in anything I drive, and I think if you do get the ass end out a limited slip will help you get it back. In the meantime it will allow the car to accelerate so much harder especially in a turn where an open diff will just light up the inside tire. If your wife isn't a very good driver (thinking car control with high hp RWD cars, not running into parked cars), you may just want her not to drive your Z.

Awesome car. Is that weight confirmed, or is that just an estimate or what it weighed when Clifton had it. Giving me hope of still hitting my goal of 2250 lbs with 5.3 and T56 and more elaborate cage.

Must... buy... Miata...

Yes, they pop in with a circlip.

My brother-in-law Mat has a ton of headlight buckets. He's outside of Sac. matm AT m2differentials DOT com

FYI, DIVE planes.

I believe the FSM has a test procedure.

Still could be ign module. Sometimes they just fail altogether, out of the blue, no warning. The FSM is a good idea.

Never really thought about i, but if I were to hazard a guess I would suppose that they use a set of criterion that does not include "dry road course handling with slicks with several hundred lbs less and several hundred hp more than originally designed" (which is what is important to me) and that style, cost, safety, ride comfort, and tire wear are very high on the list for most car manufacturers.

Ignition module is my first guess. Usually the module will work again after the car cools off, then it will run fine until hot, and then die again.

I don't have a formula for you, probably just have to keep adding tire until you go slower, then go back to what was fastest. Lots of guys in OR run FA tires which are 15x14 rears and 15x10 fronts, and I don't think any of them has gone back to 10s in the rear. I'm going to try running the rears on all 4, so I'll have something to report in 2042 when my car is running...

Where are you having trouble? I had most trouble in the rear wheel well area inside the car and I pried up the 3 or 4 layers of steel there and scraped the seam sealer out with a pick. Dirty work, and if I had it to do again I might have just skipped that section. Rockers have a ton of sealer in them too. Everything else was pretty easy as I recall.