JMortensen

The trick to flaring is chamfering the tube. If you don't have a countersink you can do it with a big drill bit, like a 3/8" drill bit. Just hit the end of the tube and putting that chamfer on it makes all the difference when you go to flare the tube. I've always used cheapo NAPA type flare tools, never had a big issue getting a good seal.

No, I got mine about 10 years ago, probably from some circle track source.

Maybe they downshifted to 1st instead of 3rd or a piston let go or a crankshaft broke. There are many ways the rods can get bent, especially once things start going wrong. Stock rods are pretty damn strong. I'd be more worried about pistons if the plan is to spin really high rpms or run really high compression. It takes some work, but it's far from impossible. Take a look at zredbaron's head buildup page for a good blueprint on how to do it. He's getting 267 whp out of a 3.1 stroker which is 86 whp/liter, but he's running 40 mm carbs. My gut tells me he'd pick up some more power with 44s or 45s. Regardless, it's a good one to follow if that's the power goal. With bigger carbs I would guess that 250 whp is possible with the 2.8. http://forums.hybrid...-shortcuts-max/

I don't know. Maybe someone else could give an opinion there.

Doh! You are right. Your test sounds like it would work. Sure. Anything that has slop could cause a clunk. I don't know how to test a RWD CV joint. On a FWD you crank the steering wheel and step on the gas and it will give a click click click if the joint is bad.

I would put a ratchet on the big nut on the inside and a prybar on the wheel studs and pull as hard as you can one direction, then switch it around and try the other direction and see if it clunks.

Yes, stub axle splines being loose can cause clunks.

I'd suggest you skip the stroker. Extra cost with a 12% gain to go from 2.8 to 3.1. I think your whp goal is doable with a 2.8. I ported and cc'd my head and I came out with ~240 whp. Spend the money on induction. Or a V8 swap. V8 gives much cheaper hp at least in the states.

The red part is not a CV. It is a special ball bearing slip yoke. The rubber boot does kind of resemble a CV boot, but it does not articulate the way a CV does. The companion flange is the part at the wheel end which the halfshaft bolts to. It slides onto the splines on the stub axle. The part that you marked in blue as stub axle is where the stub axle and companion flange meet. So the part that you bolt the wheel to is the stub axle, and it has a splined shaft that sticks through the semi trailing arm where the companion flange plugs on and there is a big nut holding it all together. Technically the side axle is a stub axle as well, any very short axle is a stub axle, but calling it a side axle differentiates it from the stub axle that the wheels bolt to. Could also be called an output shaft, side shaft, any number of different terms apply.

Loose gland nut will make a hellacious clunk.

You don't need to imagine. Just search and read and then you'll know that DOHC is not required.

Factory fittings are 10 x 1. On the prop valve I used (can't recall make), I had to use a 3/8 male to 10mm female adapter on both ends. I believe I got the adapter from the local parts store.

I think you're right. As an example of an extremely crude diffuser, the pre-COT NASCARs had a really high rear end, and my understanding was that the spoiler in conjunction with the high rear end pulled air out from under the car as a diffuser does. I remember reading when the COT came out that there was an engineer on every team whose sole duty was to determine optimal placement of the fuel tank for best aerodynamics, and how those guys would be out of a job. At lower speeds without a clean path for the air to flow through, I think a rough diffuser might have limited benefit compared to a properly designed one that has fences close to the ground, etc. I'd love to see that idea tested, maybe with Mayolives' car as suggested previously. I can say that in McBeaths book Competition Car Aerodynamics (which I know Richard has) both the splitter and the spoiler are shown to be net improvements on NASCARs with rough underbodies and no trays. What I'm beginning to take away from this is that the "best" solution would be a nicely fabricated undertray with splitter and diffuser, but if that isn't possible a splitter in front, crude diffuser in back with a spoiler to help it pump air, and maybe a wing on top of that is a relatively easy solution. Funny, I think that's basically what the blue Z in the video has (although it may have a full tray under it, can't see in the vid). Still wondering what would happen with my air dam at the end of a splitter chin idea...

Bleeders pointing up?

Could be that you've lost a seal between the masters. When this happens you pump fluid from one reservoir to the other, but don't actually lose fluid. If this is the problem, you need a new master. 1/8" of free travel doesn't sound like enough. You need about that at the rod itself, so with a ratio of something like 4:1 on the pedal I would think that would be about 1/2" or so at the foot end of the pedal.

DRW's prices are about 1/2 of what they actually charge you. They just haven't updated their website pricing... ever. I tried another supplier for my first set of circle track wheels about 10 years ago. I bought wheels from Paulsen, and they were just HEAVY. So be careful that you don't get some extra rotating weight to save a bit of cash.

Search "sectioning struts" as that will tell you what you need to know. Yes, you need shorter struts to do it. If you got the same struts you could take your fronts and use them in the rear as the rear struts need to be longer, and then section the fronts to use MR2 rear inserts. Removing the bumpstop will either allow the strut to hit the hat on top or allow the coils to bind. Hitting the rubber bumpstop should be more comfortable than either of those solutions, so I'd actually put a bumpstop in on the side that doesn't have one if you were just going to mess with bumpstops. I'd suggest a different strut too. I'm not much for the way the Tokicos are valved. Too much compression, not enough rebound. If you're going to section anyway I'd go with the Bilstein struts talked about in the big strut thread and just use the stock valving they come with. They're a bit shorter than the MR2 struts and IME Bilstein has a much better handle on ride comfort (and handling for that matter) than Tokico. But that's just one opinion and to be fair I haven't actually tried their struts with stock valving on a Z, but I've had them in various other vehicles.

Flare it.

Wilwood brake master (singular)? Pictures? Does it use a booster?

Shorter springs does not equal shorter travel. If you have a 12" long spring and you have the perch set 11" down from the top of the strut tube, you have 1" of travel. The STRUT'S POSITION is what gives you a particular amount of travel. Now what could be an issue is if you have a short spring that is COIL BINDING. If it is hitting the bumpstop before it coil binds, then the spring is not the problem.

I bought a PS2 for GT4. I may buy a PS3 for GT5, but I really felt I wasn't getting the most out of it with a joystick, so then you're talking a wheel, I'm going to be into this game $400... I loved GT3, got a little bored with GT4, and just not sure about laying down the cash for GT5.