JMortensen

I'll PM you and give you the suspension specs that were on the car back then.

It has a bolt on flange between the header and the rest of the exhaust. In my 70 I could pull the trans without taking the exhaust off, but it was tight. The best thing about this system is that it is TIGHT to the bottom of the car. I'm not going to give it away because I need money for my project, but make me an offer and we'll see if we can't get it done.

The exhaust has been sitting here for quite a while, so I don't think it's going anywhere anytime soon. If I still have it when you're ready you're welcome to it. I've been trying to find a local buyer...

Your pics aren't coming through. You can buy the rocker panel from Tabco if I recall. They sell patches for most of the common rust spots on the Z. I have a 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust and MSA 6-1 header that I'd like to offload if you're interested. Comes with a Super Turbo muffler, but it's pretty beat, so I'll thrown in a new Ultra Flo that I purchased to replace it with if you're interested. Whatever you do it's going to need a new exhaust tip. Pretty rusty. $200 for header and complete exhaust with the new muffler if you want it. You can hear what it used to sound like here: http://www.classiczc...php?photo=15578

Here is the strut thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/50944-the-strut-thread-koni-illumina-tokico-carrera-bilstein-ground-control/ Sectioning the strut means cutting some of the height out of the middle of the strut tube and then welding it back together. Here's Coffey's thread on ride height and alignment settings: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/60536-alignment-settings/

I can recall putting 15.x gallons in my Z many times when it had the stock tank, and swear I got just a hair over 16 in mine once or twice. I think you can get 16 in pretty easily because the filler neck fills up a bit. The gauge also says 60L on it. You can also look up the specs online. This site says 15.9 http://www.carfolio.com/specifications/models/car/?car=36003. It would be nice if that were enough, but I expect a long dissertation about some stated but not actually used scientific principle TYPED MOSTLY IN CAPS that proves that 60L doesn't in fact equal roughly16 gallons and maybe some browbeating to go along with that. If you look back, I don't disagree that the fuel expands, in fact I showed the mathematical coefficient of expansion. Due to finding the actual coefficient and it being vastly different from what you said, I think you're wrong about the amount the fuel really expands. You spout off "Boyle's Law" as if the mere mention of some scientific principle will end the argument. That is the "argument from authority" fallacy at work again. Show your work. I've shown mine. If you look back at the classiczcars.com page again, you'll see that the 69 Z's didn't come with an expansion tank at all, because it's there to catch vapors and condense them and return them to the tank. It is a smog device. Expansion tank is apparently the wrong wording, the correct label would be "vapor tank". If you look at the position of the tank, if it were really intended to catch the expanding fuel, they sure decided to put it in the wrong spot! Looks like it doesn't have very much capacity before the fuel level rises to the height of gas cap. Most of the available space is above the fuel cap. As I said before, the gas cap and neck seals aren't tight enough to prevent splashing fuel from running out of my 70 with a metal expansion tank, stock hose routing and new gas cap and filler neck. I don't think it would hold up very well being under the fuel level, which I think it would clearly be if the expansion rate of the fuel was anywhere near 10%. It makes a lot of sense to put a vapor tank up high because it allows gravity to return the condensed vapors to the tank . http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9503&d=1128801645 In looking at the proposed changes again on classiczcars.com, I think there is one point on which we can agree. That is that routing the line from the top of the tank to the crankcase is a bad idea. I can't recall exactly where that hose went, I think it might end up on the driver's side fender and link into the vent tube off of the front of the block. If you park on a hill and the level of the tank is then higher than the level of the vent tube, and I'm correct about the routing, then you are right, gas is going to gravity feed into the crankcase. I would route that vent line back up to the filler neck with the others and plug it up front. With small bit of agreement in mind we can continue arguing about the expansion of fuel until the cows come home, but I did the math and checked several sources and I think you're wrong on that one. I would however suggest that people don't fill up in Anchorage and then have a helicopter airlift their car to Death Valley. You might get some pretty severe leakage out of either system were that the case.

I have a set of the rear flares. Not fronts. I wouldn't just send them out to anybody, but if someone I knew like Brian at zccjdm.com wanted to do it or MSA or Beta Motorsports or something, I'd send them out if they paid to ship them back.

I did some more checking and decided to leave it alone. I looked into cold bluing that I'd used on some rifle parts, and it turns out it's far inferior in terms of rust protection to hot bluing, which I don't want to get into. The one other thought I had was a dry graphite spray. If that doesn't work I guess I'll just deal with it and hope that the rotor doesn't seize to the stub axle the way the stock drums do...

Tony, I really do not argue just to argue. I argue because I want to find out the REAL answer. I think you get really frustrated when people don't just take whatever you say as gospel, and I'm really sorry if me not believing everything you write offends you. The Z has a 16 gal tank. Not sure where 11.7 gal comes from. So if you were allowing for 10% expansion, you should be able to fill to ~14.5 gallons, right? The problem is that I think that 10% expansion is vastly overstated. Gas stations have underground tanks, which makes them less likely to have a huge swing in temperature from morning to night. The gas is going to come out at a relatively stable temperature in comparison to the ambient air temp. So on a hot day it will be cooler, and on a cold night it will be warmer than the ambient air. http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/669765/buy_cold_gasoline_and_save_money.html?cat=27 While the article is talking about getting better mpg out of cold gas, the expansion is useful for our discussion. In a 16 gallon tank, you're looking at 64 tablespoons of gas, or 1/4 gallon for a 30 degree change in temp. Now if you don't live right next to a gas station, you're probably going to burn most of that off driving home. And what's more, you needn't fill up until the gas level is RIGHT AT THE FUEL CAP. In fact, when I filled my Z, the level was usually 4 or 5 inches down from the cap. How much capacity is there in that 4 or 5 inches? I don't know, and I don't care enough to figure it out, but it makes the overflow problem even less likely. I had gas stains on my car with an expansion tank. Turns out if you corner hard enough you'll find the limits of the filler neck and gas cap seals. Those stains in my case had nothing whatsoever to do with expansion.

Suggestion: don't get a 1 way. Get a 1.5 or a 2. Given a choice I'd go for a 1.5. In overly simple terms, one way only locks on acceleration, 1.5 way works 1/2 as much on decel and the 2 way does the same on accel and decel. 1 way is popular for FWD, 1.5 way is popular with road racers, and 2 way is popular with drifters.

I think the overflowing on the ground thing is a bit overdramatic. I suspect you'd hear a bunch of people complaining about this happening if it had been a problem. Ghosttanker, forget the plastic tank. I cracked three of them before I beat the hell out of a metal one, then never had another problem.

There isn't a big enough market to justify many places making these for sale. There are other options, like the Wolf Creek Racing Porsche CV's, but I don't think you'll find anyone else making (and selling) Z31T CVs.

I would assume that is the spec without a bumpsteer spacer...

The spare tire well is in the middle of a boxed in structure. There is a frame rail behind, on both sides, and in front. You won't be compromising anything. FWIW, the stock tank is lighter and would be lower than what you're planning. Both good things for go fast cars. A "real" fuel cell for road racing with a steel can and plastic bladder weighs A LOT more than the tank, so if you're not going to gain anything and you'll add 20 or more lbs, don't do the fuel cell is my advice. If the rules require it, then go for it and don't worry about structural integrity.

It was "Are we getting to cocky." Now my joke makes no sense. Really though, how many of these threads do we need to indulge? It's becoming like the "Where is Ross?" threads. Can we stick this one and close it and move on already?

I don't know the answer to that Tony, but I can't think of another vehicle I've owned that had an expansion tank, so maybe it just isn't that necessary. Here is the thread on classiczcars.com, makes no mention of not filling up all the way: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19034

You might take a look at the classiczcars.com idea, and consider just getting rid of the thing entirely.

I beat one up with a hammer. There is a write up on www.classiczcars.com that involves hooking a couple of them together and attaching to the hole in the filler neck. and not using the tank at all.

Tokicos have a lifetime warranty. My experience is that when they blow they shoot oil all over the inner fender area. Sounds like you blew the left one, if you don't feel any damping at all that's a pretty good indicator.

There are things that can be done to mitigate that risk, like bending the leading edge of the diffuser up in the middle. I think the splitter/airdam also solves this problem. Really stiff springs might also be enough, depending on how effective the splitter is and the ride height intended.

Got a response from McBeath, don't want to jack Cameron's thread. The response is here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/88878-splitter-idea/page__st__20__gopid__900735#entry900735

Emailed McBeath about my splitter/airdam combo idea. Here is the response I got:

I don't know where "cocky" is, but I'm pretty sure I don't want to go there...

I like the idea of starting the spoiler up higher. There is a guy in central CA I used to autox with, Rich Breshnahan, who had a spoiler like that probably 8 years ago .It was like a whale ttail type of spoiler that he made from a piece of Lexan and some angle aluminum. He moved it up to comply with the "cannot extend beyond the shape of the vehicle when viewed from above" rule. It was crude, but I recall him saying that it worked. Maybe someone has pictures. I searched and couldn't find any.