JMortensen

2 possibilities here. 1. You're on the bumpstops already. 2. You didn't roll the car around. If you just set the car down, the suspension is trapped underneath the car. Roll it around or better yet drive around the block and you'll have a better idea of what is going on. If there is no preload on the springs, you can cut them on the car. Might be a good idea to put something over the shock shaft to protect it but I had a friend cut my springs on my first Z with them on the car, and it was no big deal.

That was impressive.

In John's defense, the other guy could look at pictures on the site too. This is not a new topic and has really been covered in a lot of detail in the past few years. Lots of pictures and descriptions here to choose from, even in the stickies on this forum. There should still be some requirement of the members to use the search function and do some looking for the answers themselves. It helps keep posts like this about a subject that has been covered in detail from devolving into a "I need pictures" "So go search for, find and look at some pictures" argument. My retired admin $.02.

Thanks Tony!

Leaving town today, wanted to bump this before the auction ends.

Leaving town today, wanted to bump this before the auction ends.

From ISKY's website: http://www.iskycams.com/pdfcatalog/2004-05/page176.pdf They do list cams (and springs and retainers), but you're right that they don't have rockers and some of the other little odds and ends. As I recall they were the only source for cam tower shims that I found when I was building my last head too. Sometimes you have to ask though. My understanding is that the Sunbelt cam is different still and is not your "typical" assymetric cam. I want to say the ISKY springs are very stiff (again, this is what I remember coming from the machinist the last time I built an L head which was 7 or 8 years ago). It's a bit fuzzy, but I'm pretty sure it was due to the stiffness of the ISKY springs that I went with the Schneider springs. The Sunbelt springs are less stiff than a standard double spring setup if they're claiming you gain hp by reducing parasitic losses.

The range of adjustment is determined by the length of the turnbuckle. If there were not enough thread engagement at the caster you wanted, the solution is to buy a longer turnbuckle. You can get those from Coleman Racing, AFCO, a bunch of circle track parts suppliers. While I haven't run the TTT rods, I ran something basically similar for years on the street with a quality heim joint and had no trouble at all. NVH is going to be increased, but if NVH is your primary concern the Z car is not a good choice.

Not sold on this mod. If you have bushings in the mustache bar (even poly), wouldn't they flex and make the added bar basically useless? If you could isolate the brace from the bushings great, but I don't see a good way to do that. If the mustache bar was mounted with aluminum instead of bushings, then I see this working a lot better.

Hi-friggin-larious. You are making precisely Frank's argument, right down to the "call for advice" part. Frank was arguing that a guy in the US might not want to spend 10x as much on a Kameari cam when he can get one from ISKY, you took it out of context and made it into an Amero-centric argument (per Alan S.O.P.), and now you're arguing that Japanese might be better served by buying a cam from a Japanese grinder.

Forgot to ask: where do you get color matched spray paint?

Looks good to me!

I reposted all of the important ones on p5. If you want something else, just ask.

Mine are aluminum. http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-100-nut-rivets-2972.html The consensus seems to be that it's a bad idea though.

If you want a stock cam my brother-in-law probably has 10 internally and externally oiled cams in good used condition. I'm sure you could work out a deal. If you're losing a lobe, you should replace the cam. Email is MatM AT m2differentials.com. He's pretty busy right now but I'm betting he has a bunch out in the shed...

Another angle: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QaC3OKZ-FkI&feature=related

I ran a reground internally oiled cam on reused non-resurfaced rockers for years. Don't see the problem... ???

What about using nutserts on the fiberglass flange? I have about 75 aluminum 10-24 nutserts. Also thinking that maybe with as many screws as you used I could use flathead screws.

Saw this on another board. You'll never see the crash coming... http://www.autosport.com/news/report.php/id/83289

Search "spindle pin". I think a puller is the best way.

I finally bit the bullet and put my early fuse block on ebay. This was purchased new from Nissan about 10 years ago, used for 40K miles, then the car went on a rotisserie style breakdown and is being rebuilt as a race car so no use for this any more. I believe these are NLA, and this one is in good shape. http://cgi.ebay.com/...em=270573296505 Started it cheap at $50, no reserve!

I bought this lockset new from Nissan about 10 years ago. Drove the car daily for about 40K miles, then parked it and put it on a rotisserie and built it as a racecar. I know these lock sets are NLA, and this one has VERY LITTLE wear. The lock cylinders are in great shape. If someone can pick your lock with a scewdriver or just about any other key on their keyring, take a look. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270573288193 Started it cheap at $100, no reserve!

I've asked about quick release steering wheels previously and was given a Summit part number of G7851 which is no longer carried by Summit Racing. I guess that's what you get for waiting 2 years after getting a part number to actually order something. So here's my situation. Trailered race car, don't mind welding on the steering shaft. Want a quick disconnect for relatively low dollars. I think I want the splined style because I guess the hex style has a lot of slop in the wheel. Currently have a 13" Grant wheel and adapter, but I am realizing that this wheel probably won't work with whatever I get, as it is a 5 bolt Grant and it appears that everything is either set up for 3 or 6 bolt wheels. I found this thread and bjhines' post, and I thought my steering wheel position was just right with the Grant which is flat and the Grant adapter which is roughly 3" from the forward part of the wheel to the column, or 4" from the wheel face to the column. I did measure the Datsun shaft and it is .788" where the splines are. Wondering if people have ground off the splines to get a .750 shaft and then welded on an adapter, or if I should just buy a bolt on adapter. The NRG quick release John suggested is $125 or so and that's not including the cost of the wheel or adapter, so you could pretty easily be into that for $400 by the time it's all done...

Thanks. It's two steps forward, one step back for me as usual, but it is starting to look more and more like a car. The good news is parts are going ON the car now.

Looked at the specs on the Genesis part, and then went and measured and that sucker is WAY too big to fit in my car. Bummer. I guess I will be making my own unless someone comes up with a better suggestion.