JMortensen

When you figure out what parts are necessary, be sure to take the time to write them down in a list so that the next guy can search and find the answer easily. This will prevent the database being clogged up with all of these redundant posts about the same thing in the future. I can't believe that this hasn't been done already. I really can't believe it. Literally. Can not believe it. It's almost like it couldn't possibly be true that not one of our members hasn't already done this before. It seems like such a basic question that you would find the answer in various places on the site. Really a basic question. As a question, it has been asked frequently.

This has been discussed many times. SWEPCO 201 is my choice. Redline, Amsoil, etc all work just fine too.

Nevermind. Sorry, posted to the wrong thread.

1600 cc injectors makes a difference. If you figure that one 10 second WOT blast down the drag strip is going to pump out about a liter to 1.6 liters of fuel with those injectors going full bore, maybe the size makes a bit more sense, but you're still taking a pretty big risk having that much fuel out of the cell IMO. Why not get a cell with an internal surge tank if it needs to be that big? I know bjhines bought one from Fuel Safe and clifton actually made his own. Looks like you have the skills to do it that way. Just seems like nearly 1/2 gallon of fuel is a lot to be carting around under the hood. That's potentially a fairly large fireball.

Double post.

I'm positive it's 4.2, but I've modded mine so can't really prove it. I can show you this link though: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37506 and tell you that the regular Z has the 4.2 setup. Did you move the pivot, or just weld in the tube for the balance bar right where the old hole was?

It's a Facebooky gimmick thing where you can say "John Scott needs to fart" or "John Scott is pondering the meaning of life" or "John Scott bathes with his socks on". When we switched to the new site I was wondering what the hell was going on because the recently added topics had a bunch of stuff like that in there, and realized it was just people setting their status.

I haven't seen a lot of problems with phasing issues and vibrations caused by the diff moving around. Have I just missed them? Seems to me the vast majority of the issues have to do with the driveshaft angles between the diff and transmission. The mustache bar is pretty heavy. Doubling it would make it stiffer, but it would be like adding a leaf to a leaf spring, and wouldn't make it rigid. It's still a spring, and still designed to let the front of the diff rise, as is the front diff mount. If you eliminate the ability of the front of the diff to rise, then you no longer need the spring in the mustache bar, which is what would allow the axles to move around as the bar twists. Then you could really make a rear diff mount that was rigid and wasn't designed to be a spring at all. If you eliminated the flexibility in the diff mounting you'd still have bushing flex in the suspension. I've been down the road to cure that problem. It's not exactly an afternoon's work, but it can be done. If you rigidly mount the differential and use all rod ends and/or monoballs in the suspension then you can get rid of that twisting action. If not, you can't. You can lessen these problems by doubling the mustache bar, but eliminating them entirely is going to take a lot of work. I don't think doubling works as well here. I think the problem is that the supports have too small a footprint and the leverage from the control arm at the bottom is too great, so I bridged the gap between the supports with a piece of angle, and then gusseted the corners to stiffen. To clarify, if you were to make the uprights out of much thicker steel, 1/2" for example, then you still have the problem of leverage, and I think that you would find that the frame rail would be the next thing in line to go. I think spreading the load is what helps here.

As John says, the mustache bar actually sits behind the suspension and doesn't contribute to it's ability to handle lateral loading at all. The lateral loads transfer through the rear control arms to two vertical supports which hang down from the frame rails. While they are connected via the link at the bottom, this looks to be a pretty crappy design and some racers have reported cracking the pieces under heavy g loading. Some of us have tried to stiffen this very weak design of the rear suspension. Terry went the furthest, replacing the vertical supports and integrating the mustache bar into a solid aluminum plate. I braced and gusseted the supports. I know others like bjhines ran a brace from the mustache bar bolt to the bottom of the support. There are probably a number of other ways to get that done, but that should get your brain moving in the right direction. I think they're all shown here: http://forums.hybrid..._toe%20adjuster

1/2 gallon seems very very large to me. Make it tall and skinny and you could probably cut that down by a factor of 2 or 3 (or more) and not have starvation problems. If you do it right the surge tank should be packed full of fuel by the low pressure pump anyway. As an example, how long does it take the high pressure low volume FI to pump 20 oz of fuel? How long does it take a low pressure high volume pump to fill a 20 oz reservoir. Seems to me if the FI pump pumps slower than the carb pump, you really shouldn't be running the surge tank dry. Doubly so because there is a restrictor in the FI system and none in the surge tank system. This carb pump puts out just over double what the Walbro 255 does: http://www.summitrac...arts/SUM-G3136/ Seems to me also that the larger the surge tank is the more potentially dangerous it is. It is after all a reservoir full of gasoline, and if I were picking I'd rather the small reservoir of gasoline be punctured in an accident. Disclaimer: these are the musings of someone who has not used a surge tank. I always figured the float bowls in the carbs were surge tank enough for me, and so far that idea hasn't failed me.

Not sure if that's a typo, but the stock pedal ratio is 4.2:1. Also weight transfer is not altered by shocks and springs. The speed of the weight transfer changes, but weight transfer depends primarily on the CG height and the track width on lateral and the wheelbase on longitudinal. From: http://www.turnfast.com/tech_handling/handling_weightxfr

I did increase the pedal ratio to about 5:1. Others have done more like 6:1. You can also play with the size of the master to up the line pressure for a given amount of pedal pressure, the trade off is that a smaller master gives more pressure and more pedal travel. I've got a 3/4" and 7/8" master that were decided on a couple years ago. Hopefully it works out, if not I may have to switch masters to get where it's comfortable. If I really screwed up I may have to get another brake pedal to mod...

The nice thing about the AN fittings is that it is just a single flare. I've done a lot of double flares over the years so I'm pretty good at that, I just hate actually getting out there and doing it. These single flares are quite a bit easier though. I'm thinking you're right and I'll put the prop valve inside the car, there won't be a passenger seat so I really don't have to worry about it getting played with unless somebody just comes along and twists it for fun (had some ******* do that to my fuel pressure regulator once).

Sometimes you can have crap down at the bottom of the master cylinder's travel. When you bleed, the pedal goes right to the floor, so the seals in the master get pushed over whatever crap is in there. I would expect that the problem is the master, and the solution is to replace it. Check for leaks or to see if you're pumping fluid from one reservoir to the other.

One more thing: Large master = harder pedal pressure for the same amount of pressure at the caliper. Small master = softer pedal and more pressure at the caliper. As said before, losing the reaction disk makes everything funky, and the pedal feels soft until the brakes come on really hard.

I'm going with reaction disk. If it falls out the pedal will feel soft (often people say "I've bled the system 20 times and still don't have a pedal") and then when the brakes finally work when the pedal is near the floor they'll be on really hard. Search and you'll find other people with the same problem.

Sorry Richard, but that is BS. The Torsen works by driving the steel gears into the case. The Nissan CLSD works by driving steel clutches against steel clutches. Same thing is going on inside in both cases, metal on metal friction. You might have a case if you were talking about a diff that uses a friction material on the clutches (haven't seen one for a Nissan that does), but even then, wouldn't you rather have friction material like you would find on a clutch disk in the oil than metal? The reason the Phantom Grip mentioned above put shards of metal into the case is because it preloads the gears on the case, and the gears aren't designed for that kind of loading, nor is the case.

OK, you're wrong The Salisbury type CLSDs like the Nissan, KAAZ, Cusco, etc are torque sensitive and use ramps on the crosspins to load the clutch stacks when more power is applied. Other American style LSD's like Eaton, Ford Traction Lok, Dana Trac-loc, and Auburn Gear have springs to load the clutches and they don't sense torque at all. They're similar to a Phantom Grip, but the Phantom Grip just loads the side gear into the case, and the "real" LSDs have actual clutch packs that are just spring loaded but don't respond to torque.

Here's a very simple guideline: If you're going to be setting the car up loose or if you tend to drive over the curbs at the track, get a CLSD. If the car is not going to slide or bounce around, get a HLSD. If nothing else is available, get a VLSD. BTW steel clutches as used in the older CLSDs don't wear as fast as clutches with friction material on them like are used in most Amercian LSDs, which last 50-60K miles and then need a rebuild. If it does wear, you can shim it back to the correct spec (or whatever spec you want). Torsens don't do anything that would "pull you out of a corner like a rocket" that the CLSDs don't. The reason you come out of a corner harder is because you aren't spinning the inside tire. You won't spin the inside tire with a CLSD either, the difference with either over an open diff is pretty shocking.

Bigger master will give a firmer pedal and require more effort.

The same way you'd bleed any other type of brakes. http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/how_to/4213448.html

Might as well check the front crank bolt while you're at it.

No, that makes perfect sense. I just got hung up on the transmission itself and wasn't doing a very good job of analyzing the vibration.

P 108: http://books.google.com/books?id=j7wq62vJtXoC&pg=PA110&lpg=PA110&dq=porsche+911+synchro+ring+replacement&source=bl&ots=11RNffxG1n&sig=2JxwVhTp9ogOnz_xiNo47APPNqY&hl=en&ei=IqipS_PXEJGmsgPXwengBQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=8&ved=0CCAQ6AEwBw#v=onepage&q=&f=false

They came in production cars overseas. In the US I think they were dealer options on the older cars, but not many people seemed to want to buy it. They're pretty rare here. I think they also came in some roadsters. From what little I know, everything else was a competition part. You might be able to pull a fill or drain plug and shine a flashlight in there and try and spot the synchro rings. Years ago when I worked for a Porsche shop I did a direct comparison of the Nissan synchro and the Porsche 911 synchro from the older transmissions (called a 901 transmission maybe? It's been more than a decade). Anyway, the synchros are damn near identical, the gap in the ring was larger on the Porsche part. My boss who had worked on Porsches for 25 years was convinced that they would work and you can get the replacements pretty cheap if you don't buy Porsche brand parts. Not sure on availability for the Nissan stuff. Last I heard you had to buy the whole gear cluster with the synchro ring, which is ridiculously expensive. If you don't want to fix it you could probably find a buyer and more than cover the cost of a good regular brass synchro style trans and driveshaft. If you want to fix it I'd take the part to a guy who knows Porsche transmissions and see if he can match it up for you.