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JMortensen

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Everything posted by JMortensen

  1. Reminds me of this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=89812 I see two things that stand out right away. Your cam is too small, and the stock FI can't deal with a cam that's big enough to get the most out of what you have there. Other than that if you're thinking your driving isn't the best it might be a good idea to take it to a dyno and see what it is actually doing. You can see where the air/fuel ratios are, and what kind of power it is putting out now. Although results vary from dyno to dyno this would still be useful info to have, especially if you changed something and then went back and compared the results.
  2. Some dynos are more optimistic than others, so you can get different numbers for the same engine. If the work was done right and everything is tuned right I don't think that 249 is out of the question. One thing to note is you said 249bhp at the wheels. Bhp is at the flywheel, so if they told you bhp then that would be more in line with what I think we're accustomed to seeing around here. That would be ~210 whp as a rough estimate.
  3. Not sure what to make of this post. Can you specify what you have in more detail? It looks like a bone stock Z should run a low 17 sec 1/4 mile, so something doesn't seem right. Sounds like you're using stock FI with a camshaft... that might be a place to start.
  4. I watched this "Ultimate Factories" show about a month ago and they were at the BMW engine factory. They were talking about how cool the aluminum block was for their I6 motor, and how hard it was to cast. A good 15-20 minutes of the show was about the block. I was surprised when they said that the block ended up weighing 90 lbs. An LS1 block weighs 92. I don't know how accurate the weight they quoted on the show was, but I know the 92 lbs for the LS is accurate. The Chevy I6 was discussed briefly a couple years ago. I think the issue was that it was too tall. Here's the thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=87482 I'm not sure if they ever pinned down the height issue or not. I still remember that Baja truck. Thing sounded insane, like an old F1 car or something.
  5. Just because you can doesn't mean you should!
  6. See if you can dig up any pics of Paul Newman's Z. He ran a low back seat with a hearest built into the roll cage if I recall correctly. A lowback seat without a headrest of some sort is not the best idea in general if you're tracking a car. Doesn't matter if it's road racing or drag racing, something is more likely to go wrong there when you get the speed involved.
  7. A couple years ago I drove my 75 year old dad around in my car with Illuminas and 200/250 springs and he didn't complain once. He was too busy telling me how comfortable the Recaros were. The struts have a lot to do with the ride quality. I ran the Illuminas on 1 on the street, then when I hit the track I'd crank them up to 4.
  8. Search Schneider cams. There's plenty of info here to read about this subject about reusing rockers and all the rest. Also read the stickies in the L6 forum as there are good tips for setting lash pads, etc. For grinders you can try Delta, Webcams, Isky, and there's probably quite a few others to try.
  9. http://www.zhome.com has a registry. You can see if there are any around your serial number registered and when they were built.
  10. If you could, report back what brand they are when you get them out of the box. Nissan uses Koyo, I got some Federal Mogul bearings and they were Koyo as well.
  11. I don't think that is a safe assumption. I think the rim width needs to be correct so that the tread lays flat on the ground to get the best launch for drag racing. I think larger diameter tires (not wheels) will hook up better and more sidewall should also be better. I was informed today that I was doing my math wrong. I was using the number on the tire as though it were the tread width, but it isn't. It's the section width, which can vary pretty significantly from the tread width. So the best way to pick a tire is to measure it or find a website that has measured it for tread width and then go based on that. Here's more backup for bigger isn't always better: http://www.hoosiertire.com/faqrr.htm I couldn't find anything in the drag racing section of their website that says anything about proper sizing. I did also find this page on the BFG website which recommends 11-12 inch rims for the 315s, so the tread width and section width must be pretty close: http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/specs/g-force-r1/3824.html
  12. He put a for sale ad up today, so if you had a particular question you could probably PM him.
  13. You need to use Nissan style mag wheel lugs. Probably cheapest to get from a junkyard. The auto parts store ones don't have the right size shank on them, and the acorns are not the right shape to fit the wheel correctly.
  14. All the turbos have the save CVs with the exception of the 88SS with the VLSD.
  15. No, but you can get them from Nissan and I think maybe that Ross sends them with his companion flanges, so you might not need to buy them separately.
  16. You've got it. The CV axle plugs into the differential on that side and bolts to the companion flange which MM makes on the other side. You didn't list wheel bearings and seals, the spacer inside the strut housing, and the stub axle nut. I'd get some 280ZXT stub axle nuts as they'll be easier to remove should you ever have to replace the wheel bearings again.
  17. Not sure how much tire install experience you have, but you have no drop center on that wheel. It would be VERY difficult to get tires on that rim in real life. You need a spot to push the tire away from the bead seating lip so that it can stretch onto the rim. Sorry if I'm injecting too much reality here, you might be more concerned with the spokes and the look of the wheel.
  18. If you look in these threads you'll find some very sound reasoning to stick with the diesel to gas conversion, mostly has to do with rod/stroke ratios and taller deck heights. The 4G63 rods made me think of these old threads as I think they were talked about somewhere along the line. http://www.google.com/custom?client=pub-3543793485173468&forid=1&ie=ISO-8859-1&oe=ISO-8859-1&cof=GALT%3A%23008000%3BGL%3A1%3BDIV%3A%23336699%3BVLC%3A663399%3BAH%3Acenter%3BBGC%3AFFFFFF%3BLBGC%3A336699%3BALC%3A0000FF%3BLC%3A0000FF%3BT%3A000000%3BGFNT%3A0000FF%3BGIMP%3A0000FF%3BLH%3A50%3BLW%3A126%3BL%3Ahttp%3A%2F%2Fforums.hybridz.org%2Fimages%2Fmisc%2Fvbulletin3_logo_white.gif%3BS%3Ahttp%3A%2F%2F%3BFORID%3A1&domains=forums.hybridz.org%3Bclassifieds.hybridz.org%3Balbum.hybridz.org&hl=en&q=DAW+stroker+diesel&sitesearch=forums.hybridz.org
  19. OK everybody drop it. Let's get back on topic please.
  20. The sherlock comment was a bit over the line. I shouldn't have said that. I apologize. Please let me rephrase: The idea that one can get more displacement by welding and offset grinding a crank is not a new idea. It's been around for many decades. I'd be surprised if they weren't doing this on flathead 8's back in the 50s. The attitude in YOUR post was what I was responding to. The post read like you thought that you "showed up" Dave Rebello and that he was mortified that you had figured out his secret. That is ludicrous, but in keeping with the attitude you have displayed and been warned about so many times in the past. As an admin it is my job to keep people from flaming others, and in attempting to temper your comment I stepped over the line myself. So how about you knock off the attitude and I'll back down from calling you Sherlock?
  21. So which VLSD's had the 30 spline shafts?
  22. You CONFRONTED him? He about died? As if offset grinding a crank hasn't been done for the last 50 years or more?!! Nice job Sherlock.
  23. I'd clean them up and spin them by hand and see if you feel any sandy feeling or grinding when they spin. If so replace them. They're kind of a pain to get to so I'd be inclined to replace them anyway, but I understand not wanting to shell out the money for them too. They aren't cheap!
  24. Now that I think about it the wind tunnel in question only blows at 80 mph and then extrapolates up to whatever speed you think you'll be going. Maybe it would show if the air actually went 140 or 150...
  25. I don't think that's true at the speeds most cars can reach. The one case I've seen where a windtunnel tested it resulted in no difference between waxed and non-waxed. Large clumps of dirt sure, but dirty vs waxed at car speeds apparently makes so little difference that it wasn't measureable. This is from the Hot Rod magazine from 3/2007.
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