JMortensen

Did you search for valve stem seals? We've had some good discussions about them too...

I'll keep that in mind and check it out when I swap in the V8. For now I've got my parts ordered and it's going to be rubber hose and hose barbs. I gotta get this thing running before I start collecting social security.

This is about the point where I'd close Excel and shut down the computer and start taking tire temps at the track. I'm betting (and if I'm wrong it wouldn't be the first time) that you'll need more neg camber than that to optimize the tire temps.

I guess the disadvantage to the banjos is that eventually the aluminum washers would wear out (depending on how many times you pull the fuel lines off the carbs), where the 90* fitting would last a heck of a lot longer. The upside of the banjo is less parts needed so less cost. One other thing I might mention is that I was having a hard time finding "fuel distribution blocks" in anything other than 2 or 4 outlet versions, but I did later on find a 3 outlet block, but it was referred to as a manifold. Here's an example: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/3258,164_Aluminum-Fuel-Manifold-Fitting.html?itemNo=an%20manifold Spendy little sucker. after I saw that I was thinking about doing T's and one line instead of three separates. With the T's it would be fairly easy to disconnect the fuel lines with the manifolds, just like you do with the old fashioned rubber lines.

Louvers on race cars are almost always raised. They create more low pressure that way, sucking more air from underneath.

Try calmini: http://www.purenissan.com/WD21%20drivetrain.htm Apparently a couple people have asked them about availability and were told no problem. Not sure why the R200 picture looks different than the R180 picture...

Yeah, I agree and I finally ordered up all the rubber and hard lines and hose barbs necessary. I'm going to run my hard lines way up in the top of the trans tunnel for safety. I will be dead heading this one, but this is a temporary install and hopefully within a few years it will be pulled for the FI V8 fuel system, at which point I'll probably go with the AN fittings and all the rest. I picked the regular Carter pump, a Holley regulator, a Summit and a Fram fuel filter, all the fittings and hoses and all that for a bit over $200. I also got all the fittings, hoses, SS lines, NPT to AN adapters etc for the brakes for about $50 more. So I've got some major plumbing to do here shortly. Next is electrical. That's going to be a nightmare. EDIT--For what it's worth, I believe those banjos I linked to will fit on the Mikunis based on feedback I got elsewhere, and there are also 12 x 1.5mm AN adapters that fit right in and then you can use an 90* angle full flow adapter to attach if preferred.

I really doubt the ring and pinion are bad, you probably would have seen something when you had the diff apart if they were. Most whines come from the front ball bearing (pilot bearing) in the diff going bad. There was a thread just recently on this that gave the updated part number. The pilot bearing is available and fairly easy to change. I think you have to pull the carrier and the pinion, then remove the bearing and reassemble. If you really do need a new ring and pinion, I'd suggest you find a new diff rather than rebuilding the one you have. They're not hard to come by in good condition and you can probably pick one up for $100 or so. Compare that to the hassle of trying to find a new set of ring and pinion gears, then add the hassle and expense of setting them up correctly...

Most machinists can get the cam tower shims for you. I think one of the major cam manufacturers still sells them (ISKY?). Check around for stainless valves. There was a guy in OR selling them on Ebay for cheap. I think Phil (username "preith") bought some. You might PM him to see how they turned out. My own impression is that they aren't necessary unless you're really going 10/10ths on the rest of the head.

I just went through, diagrammed the fuel system and all the fittings necessary. Turns out to plumb the thing with regular hose barbs and rubber hose it will cost about $250. For all AN fittings it will be more like $490. Is there a good reason I should pay double for the AN fittings?

Why would someone use this AN to tube adapter fitting http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EAR-165108ERL instead of this aluminum tube nut coupler? http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/972,83_Aluminum-Tube-Nut-Couplers.html It seems that they do the same thing (attach a hard line to a male AN fitting). Am I missing something?

Here's one option to run SS hose from the back to the front: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DPUMPKIT3&N=700+115&autoview=sku

I'm thinking this might be the part needed for the carb banjos: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/8003,460_Metric-Banjo-Fittings.html?itemNo=AN%20fittings

If he doesn't have any pics, search "subframe connectors". It's been done a lot and there are plenty of pics to be seen, from home made stuff to prefabbed stuff.

I'm ready to buy parts to plumb my fuel system. I have a cell which has -8AN fittings for the fuel out and the vent, and Mikunis that have 5/16" hose barbs. Need to figure out what to use to connect them. I've already contacted Wolf Creek Racing to see if Todd has any AN banjos. I'm not really set on anything, I could go AN all the way to the front and I think that would be my preference because they seem to seal better than your typical hose barb and rubber hose setup. If it's going to cost $500 though, I could just as easily get a -8 to hose barb connector and do it the old fashioned way. Eventually this car will get an LSx, and at that point it would be better if the car would be fairly easy to convert to FI, which I would plan to do with a surge tank. I think what this means is that I need a fairly large fuel line from the back to the front, and then maybe a distribution block with smaller outlets to the carbs. Maybe??? I ran dead-headed before and that never caused a problem, so I suppose that would be the plan this time as well. Eventually I will need a return line for the cell when the surge tank goes in. I'm wondering how to do this. Is it as simple as drilling a hole in the fill plate and installing a bulkhead fitting? Other stuff I need advice on is: Fuel pump - was thinking Carter fuel filter(s) hard line soft lines - braided SS or ???

Careful there. It only made 30 more lbs of downforce than the wing set at the highest angle of attack, and wasn't tried on TitaniumZ's car, so we don't really know how it would have balanced out with a better designed front end.

Yep, one of my brother's friends used to lob rocks over his back wall which backed up to a 50 mph road, until one busted a car's windshield and they tracked him down. This was in about 1980. Not a new phenomenon...

Pop quiz: What is the difference between a spoiler and what the car that started this thread has on it?

I'm pretty sure that is the Autopower cage. I remember the funky door bars had a weird bend like that to attach to the main hoop that is bolted on 1/2 way up the fenderwell.

This is NOT an "open" forum. The bottom line is we have rules, and you need to follow them. In this case, we're not trying to stifle competition, only asking that you start your own thread. I'm deleting all the back and forth comments.

NLA = No Longer Available Sorry no link. You might check ebay or put a WTB in the classifieds area, but you don't see them often.

I don't think anyone has an exact figure on this. Plus I suspect a lot of people wouldn't realize if the CV shaft was binding unless the CV exploded or some other damage was caused by it. So if you have a relatively low powered NA L6 or a very mild V8 or something this problem may go totally unnoticed. The way to check is pull the rear spring and MANUALLY push the suspension through it's travel, feeling for bind. I think using a floor jack to check might just as easily deflect bushings or flex suspension parts so that nothing gets noticed.

That's very nice work John! I agree with you, I'm just passing on the criticism that I received. It was all about the tube not attaching to the floor, and how the cage wouldn't pass tech if the bottom of the tube was left exposed. EDIT--Coffey has a ton of experience here and owns and operates a fabrication shop. I have next to none and the cage I linked to was my first attempt. I do try to do my homework though and I think what I came up with (with the help of many a Hybrid Z'er) is pretty good if maybe a little overkill.

Same.

I agree with 1 fast z. I never understood installing flares on cars that don't need them.