JMortensen

Here's the answer I got from the author of that post: Then I searched C200 here and found this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=71496 with this info: So it looks to me like the C200 29 spline is a likely swap candidate. Someone is going to have to be the guinea pig, but I'd bet that it would work.

Non-tech posts don't add to your post count.

I gave Chris that part number and he gave me that valving as the stock valving, so yes, as far as I know that is correct.

When you run a larger tire it lifts the car up. The general tendency is for people not to want a big gap between the fender and the tire, so then they lower the car down FURTHER than it would be otherwise. This exacerbates the problem. Here's an example. Look at the rear control arms: Jay Hitchcocks Z with 18's (I think?) See the control arm angles up from the inside to the outside? http://forums.hybridz.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=3838&d=1191604376 See how much ground clearance there is between the rocker and the ground? http://svsrnd.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=Jay-Hitchcock-71-V-8-Datsun&id=71_Datsun_at_shop_013 And for comparison, BRAAP's old autox car with 13" rims: Way lower than Jay's car http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b81/BRAAPZ/Pearl/P2Medium.jpg And yet the control arms still point down, not up: http://s17.photobucket.com/albums/b81/BRAAPZ/Pearl/?action=view&current=fattyLarge.jpg

Strap wrench works. I had the same issue due to having camber plates and what I did was to carefully grip the bump stop with a pair of channel locks and then hit the top nut with an impact (LIGHTLY!).

That's a gas tank. I don't even think F1 was using diffusers in the early 70s. This is really the very beginning of trying to use aero to produce downforce and I think it took quite a while for the things that CanAm and F1 was doing to trickle down to the lower racing classes. Looking at these old pictures to try and justify your own use on a vintage race car is OK, but looking at these to try and figure out what the best aero solution is might not be the wisest move.

I can't see losing ground clearance for a seat mount, especially when the BD SFC's are right there to attach to. If you're determined to hit the rocker, I'd do it inside the car, but mounting to the SFC should be sufficient. You're mounting an aluminum seat. Are you going to use the typical angle brackets to mount them? If so, the mount base won't be anywhere near as wide as the floorpan. So I think you have your bracket off by 90 degrees if I'm looking at your drawing right. Your bracket should have the square tubes front and back. When rotated, then the SFC takes the place of all the tubing.

Coilovers don't allow the car to go lower while retaining a smooth ride. They will allow you to lower it to the bumpstops. For the smooth ride he wants, he's going to need to section the struts.

Does "hammered" mean slammed? If so, you'll need a welder. If you have a welder you can section your struts and use Illuminas with your choice of lowering springs. If you want it lower than that you'll need camber plates too which will kill your budget.

Changed title from "R200 users".

For what it is worth Juan helped me out with my rear brake kit and is going to exchange it for me for the cost difference between what I bought and the more recent setup that fits without spacers.

Titles are a PITA to change. We ask that people use spell checkers and also that they use good descriptive titles, unfortunately people don't always do the best job in that regard. If you have something you want fixed PM me and I'll do it.

Search. Most of us made our own, I used 3 cheap engine stands and some square tubing to build mine. Also take your caps lock off. When you type in all caps it capitalizes the first letter of every word.

Here is a description of the valving from Wiisass who is a member here but hasn't been active for awhile (this quote is from another forum): The dampers for our cars use 30mm pistons, and they are going to be pretty much linear no matter what. I am not so sure about the linear valving critique. I've been dealing with Chris Billings from the Shock Shop http://www.shock-shop.com and he was telling me that what he would prescribe for my situation would be very close to linear anyway, perhaps even PROgressive on the bump valving. He said it is possible to valve the Bilsteins to be slightly digressive or progressive, but with those pistons they're not going to have the sharp knee like a Koni or something that was designed digressive. Chris would be a good source for purchasing the struts, as would http://www.shox.com, and he has some very interesting things to say about valving and spring rates. Basically what I got out of it is that we are using too much shock to compensate for not enough spring. When you get enough spring, then the shock valving can be reduced even though the spring rate goes up, and what this gives you at the wheel is a tire which stays more loaded all the time, because the rebound valving in particular isn't as stiff. Stiff rebound valving pulls the tire off the ground. He also says people valve the shocks to deal with the sprung weight, but they should be valving to handle the unsprung weight, since keeping the tire on the road is the goal. So he sacrifices ride quality for the ability to keep the load on the tire. I'm going to try some struts revalved as he suggested with some pretty stiff spring rates (he charges $50 per corner for this service, so $100 for a roadracing Z since we only have front and rear valving, not usually left front/right front left rear/right rear). We'll find out how it all works out in 2025 when I get the car back on the road. He usually does road racing struts, so he wasn't sure exactly how the struts would work out for my application. What I'm doing is a pretty radical departure from what is "normal", so it may be that I'm heading down the wrong path, but if that is the case it's $65 per strut to fix it and I was willing to test his theory. Chris has a pretty good track record (he set up the shock/spring rates for the 4th place DSR car in last year's runoffs), but I guess I won't know for sure until I try.

Yeah, we could use a picture. Is it a 2 pinion LSD? I think most or all of the R190's were.

Just a reminder about the bar ratios; they would be relatively important when choosing spring rates too...

I've welded in monoball holders and modified the arms to match. More info here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106457 I think this idea of getting rid of the crossmember would work for someone who was still using regular bushings. They'd just have to cut the crossmember up and use the bushing straps and throw away the rest of it. EDIT--Actually I just checked the first page of this thread and all the info is right there, so don't bother looking up the old thread, unless you're just curious about that project...

I'm glad I was able to help. Thanks for posting the follow up.

I hope its not like when Stan and Kyle reached 1,000,000 points on Guitar Hero: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Pq6-QbbRD4

I hope not.

Hmm... that would mean that it has the wrong spline count for our usage I think. Maybe if someone adapted Q45 VLSD axles, but that's a big PITA for a VLSD...

It might. The H190 Detroit Locker fits into the R190... EDIT- I emailed the author of that post.

We've ALL been there, still funny though... You don't want to get another diff in a different ratio and be able to swap it out?

One day of time trials is like 1000 autocrosses in the same day. Unfortunately it requires a much higher level of prep and takes a much higher toll on the car.

Fixed my error. Please DO NOT use Hybrid Z as your means of communication...