JMortensen

Glenn, we want to hear the end result of your transaction, but please do not use Hybrid Z as your means of communication with Juan, and don't flame anyone here.

What would you like me to change the title of this thread to? "It ON" isn't descriptive enough. We want people to be able to tell what the thread is about before they open it. Maybe something like "EDIS is ON" or "EDIS installed"?

Pike's Peak Peugeot: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnvuKS8TIk4

You can have a cam reground for $65 from Delta. They have turbo grinds. There is no point in taking out one stock cam and putting in another as stated above, because they are all virtually identical (except the turbo).

If the pics from Rick show the mounts for the crank trigger that TEP sells, I'd be hesitant to buy it from him. I haven't used XDI, but my friend did. He had a machinist make up a super cool looking bracket that looked similar to that one and when he got up to about 8000 rpm (L18) the bracket vibrated enough that the sensor hit the trigger wheel killing it instantly, right in the middle of an autox run. Then he made his own bracket from 3/8 plate aluminum that bolts to the driver's side of the block (what is that the AC compressor mount) and hasn't had any trouble since. I also saw Vic Sias kill his trigger on his street car at an autox once, same deal. The flexible mount vibrated at high rpms. When it comes to crank triggers, go overkill on the mount is my advice.

Yes, there are two holes in the block that feed the cam towers, the spray bar is also fed off of the cam towers, so there is no modification necessary. In the future please spell out words and try to use correct punctuation.

No problem and you can run both oiling systems simultaneously.

Z-artist, read the threads below. The diff you linked to is a shortnose R200 and is not an easy install: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114798 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108010 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103512 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=90068

ezzzzzzz is right. Get a 4.11, swap in your LSD, use a 280ZX trans and you'll have basically the same end result at about 1/5th the cost and it will shift nicer (in my opinion).

You won't find outers for an early 240. They used a smaller post on the outer tie rod than the 72 and later cars, and somewhere along the line all of the parts manufacturers stopped making the early ones. In order to replace the outers you need later steer knuckles. The steer knuckles aren't hard to swap out, so it's not the worst job in the world, but you'll have to get a hold of some knuckles.

There is a specific toe link on those cars right? That'd be the first place I look.

That's the Bernoulli principle you're talking about with the bottle example. The problem is that there is a stagnant high pressure area right at the cowl, hence the invention of the cowl induction hood. The cowl induction hood takes the pressure that normally exists at the base of the windshield and forces it into the engine compartment where there is usually a big 4 barrel waiting. It wouldn't make sense to suck air away from your carburetor. There are some things about the Z that make cowl exduction more likely, for instance the cowl itself is relatively deep and the windshield is pretty curved. One guy on here tried the yarn test and found the yarn alternately going into and coming out of the hood. In my mind a vent at the back of the hood is far from the best way to get air out. Bernoulli's Principle would work much better in the middle of the hood, since the cleaner and higher velocity airflow you have the stronger the suction created, and the farther you are away from the windshield and the front of the car the more airflow there is going to be.

Grumpy linked to it: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=94694

It may be possible to have the shoes so far out of adjustment that they don't do anything, I didn't realize you had just replaced the shoes.

That's a pretty big question, and would take quite a while to write an answer to. When you get to a certain part of the project, say front control arm bushings, then search for that and you'll find your answer. Rear control arm bushings are a serious PITA. Definitely search that one and read up before you attempt it. Here is another website which I think you'll find useful, although they got really lucky with their rear control arm bushings and I wouldn't count on their info on that particular topic: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension.htm

For this I bought a digital protractor from Harbor Freight. It was only $15 I think and works really well, measures angles to .1 degree. I tried to find it on their website just now and couldn't, but I am pretty sure I saw one at the store yesterday when I was there, so they should still be available.

Not usually, but the IRS that we use does. There haven't been any in a while, but I've seen probably 10+ posts over the years that say "My Z has a posi!" and then they figure out that these cars will just leave two stripes. The better test is crank the steering wheel all the way and then try to leave two stripes. 75's and 76's definitely did not come with any sort of LSD, at least in the US.

Probably not. The 76's didn't come with LSDs stock (none of the Z's did until the 87 300ZX Turbo), and the Datsun IRS will leave two stripes most of the time without an LSD.

The harbor freight tubing notcher is great if the tubes hit in nice regular angles. When they don't or when the angles are too extreme it is fairly useless. In my case it was worth the $40, but I suppose it depends on your cage layout. I don't know what size tubing you're using, but for my really funky notches I used a cardboard paper towel roll center. It actually slides right onto 1.625" tubing, so that's convenient if that's what you're using. Otherwise I cut the tube to a reasonably close angle with my band saw, then ground the notch out with a 4.5 inch angle grinder. When you get close you can switch to flap sanding disks on the grinder. Trial and error and yeah, it's tedious and takes forever. You could also try one of those tubing notch tools that has all the needles. You press it against the tube and the needles keep the shape of the notch, then you just slide it over your tube and trace it and cut it out. The tools are kind of pricey, but that's probably the best way to go for speed and ease.

To install what? I'm glad that you are searching, but why are you bringing up a post from over 4 years ago?

I did 1 x 1 x .083 on my Ultra Shield. You might just put a couple pieces of wood on the floor and estimate what it will be like with one or the other. Here's my seat install thread, most of the pics are dead but it might still help: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103817

As low as possible is probably a good bet. The other weird thing about seats in Z's is the stock rear seat mounts are a good deal lower than the fronts. If you install a seat that is meant for a flat seat mount (Recaro is a good example) then the seat gets installed with the thigh support leaning way back. If that's the case with your S2000 seats you may need to either lower the front seat bracket or raise the rear. I'd lower the front if possible.

An LSD makes a HUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUGE difference in how the car drives, and with the amount of torque you've got I'm sure you'd notice it right away. No more one wheel peel, and the car will pull out of a corner so much harder you'll be shocked. Get an LSD!

That looks really well done, and I see similarities to quite a few different threads. Good work!

You can jack the car up, put a zip tie on the strut shaft and push it all the way down, then set the car down and roll it back and forth to settle the suspension. Then jack the car back up and the location of the zip tie will show you how far the suspension is compressed. If there isn't a couple inches travel from the zip tie to the bump stop, then you need longer springs. Also, it sounds like you may not even have a bump stop in there anymore. It sounds to me like you'll probably be replacing the springs and shocks. Look at the sticky in this forum that warns about Tokico springs before you buy anything...