JMortensen

Totally. If I were at 5000 ft the last thing I'd want is a NA L engine. If you're going to go NA, may I suggest a large increase in displacement?

I was looking around at door bar pictures and I happened onto Jay Hitchcock's pics, and it looked like his bars had to go into the door to avoid the seat. Went out to the garage and sure enough when I put the seat in I didn't have room for the door bar to hit the shoulder bar. Damn! So I took a cue from Jay and bent the backside of the door bar where it goes around the shoulder bar. I found that because my main hoop is tucked so far back it was impossible to get the tube attached, so I had to notch the door jamb. Actually I just cut it away, but I'll weld some sheet back in there to make it a true notch. The good news is that I can make this notch deep enough that welding the underside of the tube should be easy. This also required notching the door, no biggee there. So now for the rest of the X. I think I'm just going to weld in straight pieces of tube to complete the X. Because the bottom of the halo is so tight in the corner there it would take a HUGE notch to get the tube in there if it had the same bend as the top does. Plus I figure my shoulders are a lot wider than my hips, so I'm still getting space where I need it. On the passenger side it is going to be a simple flat X and I'll just have to avoid seats with shoulder supports on that side.

I was thinking the same thing. I'd be surprised if it hit 8000 rpm in the video. 10,000 rpm gives you a whole different sound... Hence the name "four wheel drift".

I think this sounds like the problem. Ospho is ph-ospho-ric acid. I was going to ask you about that. Did you hose off the whole car after you applied the Ospho? I think that's the recommended procedure.

The cam specs sound like NA cam stuff to me. Is it possible this is a case of too much overlap? That would be laggy I imagine...

Pull the rubber boots off the clutch master master and slave. If fluid pours out, then you need to replace them. As Gary suggested, clutch hydraulics can have problems when they sit for a long time they can get corrosion in the bores, then when you push in the clutch pedal in it drags the rubber seal through all the junk in there.

There were manual adjust slave cylinders on the 70 and 71 Z. But yeah, being that this is Hybrid Z it would help to know what drivetrain you're using.

I just bolted up the suspension and put mine on a trailer completely gutted. Worked for me.

Changed the title of the thread. "Oh come on" is not nearly descriptive enough. We want to be able to know what the thread is about before opening it.

So where would you suggest I put them bj?

I guess you missed the first test...

Just remember, the 6 point cage is the heavy tube. All the braces and extra stuff is 1.625 x .065. Total cage weight should be ~175 or so...

I think I'm in agreement with you John. Here are some pics of the places that I could put these gussets along with my thoughts: I give this one a maybe. It's easy to access, but the tube to the strut tower that is being gusseted is already a short span. Gusseting the shoulder bar seems like a waste of time, and will interfere with the door bar installation: Putting a tiny taco gusset under the large tube gusset seems retarded: In the V intersection at the dash. I'd need to grind this sucker down quite a bit and by the time you do that, is it really worth it? Plus the V intersects the cowl and the firewall, so its not a long unsupported tube: Here's the gusset from the door hinge area to the A pillar tube: Bottom door bars are 3/4" above the rockers: Here's how I welded them in: In the back, the longest span of tubing is the strut tower bar. I don't see a need to gusset any of this: