JMortensen

How much weight did the CF roof save?

Well I went ahead and welded tabs on both arms. There is also a reinforcing plate on the arm underneath which stops about 1/8" from the edge of the arm, I welded the gap up so that there is a solid 1/8" thick or thicker piece of metal from the TC rod all the way across the top of the control arm. This just looked like such a naturally good solution that I figured what the hell...

2936cc, not 2.4L

How about welding on a tab like this? Seems like it makes the TC rod connection double shear which was something Cary had mentioned, and it also gives another load path for the rod to the control arm. The tab has a slight bend to it in order to hit right on the edge of the control arm, but I don't think that would be too much of a problem...

We've done this before several times.

The mustache bar bends like a spring, so it's not the best item to cut and weld. That said, it looks like you did a nice job modifying it. If you use one of the better front diff mounts like the one Ron Tyler designed, you might just get away with it. I would say that bar's days are numbered with a stock front mount and strap setup.

Believe it or not there is a new development on this project. I never did make my new TC rods previously. I ordered up some turnbuckles and they were too long, then I just used the old rods on the car to move it to the new house. So now that I'm about to paint the undercarriage I finally decided to make new TC rods. Got a new turnbuckle, a 3/8" clevis and a piece of 3/8 x 1 bar stock and went to work. Based on info from another thread I tried to make the TC rod point directly at the ball joint. This is supposed to load the rod itself better (straighter). I think I did a pretty good job at aiming the rod, but now the piece of bar stock is pretty long and I'm thinking that in itself might be a weakness. I guess I'm considering drilling a new hole closer to the control arm, even if it loads the bar a little bit off dead center. I remember Cary talking about cars on slicks bending the stock TC rod at the bend. I would imagine mine is a little stronger at this joint than a stocker, but I'm not sure I want to take chances here. Thoughts?

I'm trying to get my window net mounts installed and I can't figure out how to do it. I guess the problem is I don't have a nice parallel halo and door bar setup. Any pictures of your window net mounting brackets will help.

Copper washers??? I haven't seen stock brake lines in a long time, but I was pretty sure that its just a bubble flare and uses no copper washers. I think you would see copper washers with a banjo type fitting. If the lines are leaking at the fittings and they're tight it's probably a bad flare. You might have to get a flare tool and learn how to use it. The trick for me was figuring out to chamfer the inside of the tube before you flare it. You can use a chamfer tool in a drill. I used a very large drill bit last time I had to flare some lines because I didn't have a chamfer bit on hand.

CP vintage cars have similar brakes. Some run early ZX rear disk, but the acceptable front mod is the 4x4 setup. The cars are pretty damn fast too. Surprisingly when I weighed the non-vented 4x4 caliper it was only 2 lbs heavier than the stock caliper. The vented caliper might be a bit heavier, but it's not as bad a weight disadvantage as you would think just looking at the two next to each other.

I ran cross drilled stock rotors from Power Stop for years. I liked them a lot, because I was able to boil the brake fluid over and over and the rotors never warped. That's probably not the effect you are looking for, but at least they're durable. They were Brembo rotors that were cross drilled, for what that is worth. If you want cooler, you'll really need to step up to something vented. Especially at altitude I think it's worth it. The air just isn't dense enough to cool the brakes between uses on a road course.

Did you hit your head or something? Search. Look at the brake FAQ, Auxilary's sticky post, etc. I don't think there is a rotor that bolts on. You'll need the spacer and the vented 300ZX rotor. I'm sure you'll find that it makes a big difference. Make sure you use a good quality bolt between the hub and the spacer and rotor. That's a long bolt to be loading in shear.

This sentence should get your spidey sense tingling. Why do you think it's the bastard child? Probably not because it's so damn cool that it makes all the other engines look bad...

I don't understand the hate of the V engine. What's not to like? Weight is lower down and further back. Crank is not as long so not as heavy, same with the block. Better aero potential. Seems like a win/win to me. I like I6's too, but there is absolutely nothing wrong with a V6 in my opinion.

Find out the knurl diameter and length of the stock studs. Then you can check catalogs and websites to see if there is another stud with a similar knurl diameter and length. Or you could just redrill the hubs for a larger knurl diameter and use any studs larger than stock. The early Z is close enough to the RX7 and the Camaro to use their studs with different lug nuts. I'd be surprised if the Z32 didn't have a stud size similar to something else. You're going to have to dig a little to find out though... I also changed the title of your thread. We want to be able to identify what the thread is about without actually opening it first, so keep that in mind for the future.

The Zero Rust paint can says right on it to put a layer of thinner on top of the paint between uses to prevent it from drying in the can.

You can top coat both of them. I know Zero Rust says that a top coat isn't required, and that's supposed to be a selling point. I seem to remember reading that the POR will chalk up if exposed to direct sunlight.

Exactly. They aren't used for aero purposes on a Z, they're used to protect the interior from sun damage or as a styling addition. As an aero device they're used to extract air. Since there is no air to be extracted, they should only be able to do what they do to the top layer of air, which is to cause turbulence. This turbulence causes low pressure as the air crosses the louver vent, and that's what makes them extract the air in that situation. So now you'd have the low pressure doing nothing useful, but the turbulence causing drag. I'm not an engineer and have no special qualification to say what they'll do. I can say with some degree of assuredness that these are not flush mounted by definition. A flush mounted louver would have the bent part inside the hatch with only the hole at the hatch level.