JMortensen

I didn't say I know FI. Far from it. But I've been around enough guys that do that I know it's not a mystery to them like it is to me. You have to know how to test individual components and you have to know what they do, but it isn't hard for someone who understands the system to diagnose it. No clue on your RB question. Try that forum.

Why do I seem to recall that the only LSD available for the D36 was the extra crappy Trak-Lok which had an extremely weak lockup, no torque sensing ability, and tended to chew up spider gears and clutch tabs really bad? Is there another LSD for this diff, cause I would definitely not go to all the hassle to put an 8.5" ring gear in with a crappy LSD? I guess the upside is you can get those taller gear ratios some of you turbo guys are looking for...

Other than that her hat is on crooked...

Let's keep the speculation to a minimum. F1 doesn't use carbs and they seem to rev just fine. If you understand FI it is at least as easy to fix as carbs. Sound should be pretty much the same. Air horn and basically the same size runner straight down to the intake valve.

Hmm... you're right about the 115mm ring gear on the trucks. Try asking some old ITS racers and you might come up with one. Or search for that thread about the spacer. might help to put in zcarnut in the search engine, as I think he was the one who had done it. Now about that sig pic...

I think you forgot one point. You need to put a tube from the bleeder on the caliper to a bleeder bottle, and the end of the tube has to be underneath the fluid level in the bottle. That way when you let up on the pedal it will suck a little fluid back up the tube instead of just sucking air straight into the caliper. I've never had any trouble using this method and you don't have to buy anything except maybe a short length of tube.

http://www.jongbloedracing.com/

4.11 out of the front of an old 4x4 truck shouldn't be too hard to find. I think the 3.90 was only available for about 6 months, then they switched to 4.11. So 4.11 is easy to find, 3.90 is tough. Alternatively I think zcarnut machined a spacer to fit on the 115mm ring gear to bring it down to 110mm, but that seems like the extremely hard way to do it. Your sig pic looks taller than 200 pixels. If it is can you resize a little smaller please?

Especially in the front you won't have a heck of a lot of adjustment for camber with the adjustable LCAs. The problem is that you can only lengthen the tie rod so far before you run out of threads. If you were to do camber plates in the front the noise wouldn't be inside the cabin, which might be better than in the rear where it is right behind your head. Plus John says the EMI plates that he sells don't make noise, so maybe try his first. I think that trying to adjust camber with the LCAs is not the best idea. Our chasses are usually not straight so rarely would you end up moving the control arms the same amount, so then you have one wheel which sticks out further than the others to adjust camber, and you're still really limited in the front due to the tie rods.

Its probably too late now, but I knew a kid in high school whose dad set his nose by putting a 10 penny nail up each nostril and manipulating everything until it was all straight. Personally I've been through 4 broken noses (only one fight and I was 11 years old) and one deviated septum surgery. Looking at a second surgery now and if I had the balls I'd rather slam my face into another steering wheel and set it myself. That surgery SUCKED big time and hurt way worse than breaking my nose in the first place.

The Toyota 4 piston calipers and 280ZX rear disc setup was fine for me until I added slicks. Then I think I was able to put enough heat in them that they just weren't up to the task. I think your problems are that your bias is too far to the front and the rear shoes need to be recurved or maybe replace the drums, then the rears need adjusting. Good luck finding a shop to recurve the shoes...