JMortensen

If you're at bare metal I'd just POR15 it. Ospho is specifically for treating rust, which you're specifically saying isn't a problem in your case because it's been sandblasted.

Did you know http://www.tirerack.com has a search by tire size function? I just checked 245/50/15 and it looks like there is a Dunlop SP Sport 8000 with a 200 treadwear. Price is $156 each. There is also a Hoosier DOT tire, but I'm guessing you aren't interested in that one. I was kinda suprised to see how few options there are in 15's.

Sounds like the thing to do is pull a spring off and compress the suspension and see if you hit the bumpstop or the tire first. If the tire hits then you can decide whether you want to put taller bumpstops in or cut the arches again.

They both have the same shape. There was a thread about a year ago that compared the 2 next to each other. I seem to recall the 280 part being a little beefier. If you really want duals you could always do the same thing Terry did and get two and cut them in half and weld them back together so that you have 2 bigger recesses for the exhaust. http://www.fototime.com/%7B1CCBB0CD-BB0A-44EA-AC10-DE6C57AFD697%7D/picture.JPG

Having worked on Porsches I'm not a big fan of aluminum lug nuts. They distort easily, and although I've never seen them come off it's just not a part that I'm willing to screw around with. You should be able to find 12 x 1.5 lug nuts easier, since that's what a lot of camaros have. Here's a link to the ARP studs with 1.5 threads, couldn't find the nuts on the Summit page, but they were listed on the DRW page for $1.65 per nut. I bet you could do a little better if you searched around though. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ARP%2D100%2D7708&N=700+300117+115&autoview=sku

OK, you got me with that one! :lol: :D

If you look at pics of the ROD on the http://www.betamotorsports.com site (check benchracing, then images) it appears that John has his flares maybe 1" higher by my guesstimate.

Whoa. that looks like a full coilover setup like you'd see on a desert racer, but it's evidently meant to look like a stock vehicle. Then there is the hook dealy on top. Makes me wonder if this wasn't a car dropped from a helicopter for a commercial or something.

Start a new thread about your white interior. Lets stay focused...

When I was a kid I was riding my mountain bike and my foot slipped off the pedal and the inside of my right leg got impaled on the big chainring. I literally had to pull my leg off of it. I think it was a similar injury. There was a triangular flap of skin about 1.5" which in my case got shoved up inside my leg. I cut straight into the fat layer, there was very little bleeding and no pain to speak of. I remember thinking that the exposed part of the fat layer looked like the gel honeycomb on the bottom of old Reebok running shoes. I went to the doctor and they used a hook tool to reach in there and pull the flap of skin back out, then washed it with iodine and a wire brush (that part hurt) and gave me 15 stitches. That little triangular patch of skin never regained any feeling. I guess my point is that you should probably get the stitches if this is sounding familiar.

According to the How to Modify book you want .090 to .100 on the exhaust, and .070 to .080 on the intake.

If you're talking about the frame for the cell, I wouldn't worry about it too much. When I've been welding tubing I just clean off the end of the tube where I'm welding, and the rest of it has a coating on it from the steel mill. Then paint the outside, and whatever little bit of rust is on the inside would take forever to actually get all the way through. What is more of a concern is where you weld the metal to the frame rails. Here you have the frame rail which is not sealed, and when you weld on the tubing you'll burn the primer on the inside of the tube. I've looked at various methods for preventing rust inside the frame, and it seems like 2 keep popping up. I haven't decided if I'm going to do one or both of them. One is to spray something like POR15 or Zero Rust INSIDE the frame rail using a spray gun with a long tip. The other is to spray oil inside the frame rails. Krown rust proofing in Canada does this, and they use a special oil that turns into a grease after it dries. I haven't found the exact oil that I want to use, but I know I'm going to do the oil inside the frame. I might call the Krown dealer in BC and see if they'd sell me a bit of the oil. I'm still not sure if I'm going to do the Zero Rust inside the frame because I think it's pretty much impossible to get full coverage. Not sure if getting it as good as I could would be sufficient or if I should just rely on the oil alone.

Interesting about the NHRA rule. So what do you do if you're 5' tall? I guess you have the main hoop in the doorway...

Looks like it has a lot of tongue weight...

I guess what I'm saying is if you don't want to rev the piss out of it you shouldn't have the big valves and ported head and all the rest. I hope you're not thinking about low rpms on the freeway and stuff like that. You've built it for top end power, so cam it for top end power. My $.02.

OK, but there are other cam manufacturers with other choices out there. I have a cam similar to the Stage 4 and I wish I had more cam. My engine isn't as built as yours by a long shot. I'm looking for low .500's lift and just over 300 duration. You can always change it out later, but if it were mine I start out bigger than the 4. I'd also figure out what the limitation is on the lift whether it is the springs or piston/valve interference and take steps now to alleviate that problem. If it's pistons that means flycutting the pistons. It looks like it might be the valve stem seals that are your limitation. Did you find the post by Speeder about the viton valve stem seals from a Ford? They would be quick and easy to swap out now... As to the crank snapping and the cam manufacturer's claim of 4-8500 powerband, if you look at Dan's motor or John Coffey's motor, they both have a bigger cam than the Stage 4 and they both had a redline of 7200 rpm. I know Dan is on the verge of streetable, maybe a little overkill. Iskone also has a very big cam on the street.

Go bigger than Stage 4... BIGGER... BIIIIGGGEEEEEERRRRR!!!!

I don't think there is a "hemet must be within x inches" rule. The farther your head is from the cage the safer you are. As far as the hoop placement goes, mine is just about touching the rear wheelwell, there is only maybe 1/2" clearance. It is leaned back. I am 6'00" and do not have extremely long legs, and I will definitely need a curved bar around the back of the seat. It is a 10 degree layback seat, not a 20 degree, so it is more upright than some other race seats. I think the main difference is the seat dimension. I think the rule of thumb should be DO NOT WELD IN THE HOOP UNLESS THE SEAT HAS BEEN TESTED FOR FITMENT.

2+2 and turbo are the same clutch, and it is 240mm diameter instead of 225 like the NA clutch. ACT is my recommendation. Search and you'll find many different pro and con threads for clutches.

If you hook a tube up to it and dump it into a can you'll see that stuff does come out of there. When it coagulates it looks like nasty blown headgasket milkshake oil. I guess the drag racing strips aren't too particular, but on a road racer you can't just dump that stuff on the ground. You have to have a functional PCV or a catch can. I think this is also the reason that the exhaust setup is illegal, BTW.

$9778.44 on the first calculator I used. Here's another one: http://www.westegg.com/inflation/ and it shows $9304.72 in 2005 dollars.

I didn't mean that the car just fails. Fails as a gross polluter is different. Do that and you'll be bummed, because when that happens then you DO have to smog every year for a long time (forever?). What determines gross polluter? I can't honestly remember. I moved from CA about 5 years ago, and it's not like I was a smog tech. I know that things like not having a cat or not having the smog equipment working correctly will get you closer to that classification, and after having a few friends get gross polluted I ALWAYS got a pre-test first, every time.

Twoeightnine, what's your rush? Word from the top is we all still want to hear more opinions. Keep them coming, regardless of your viewpoint.