JMortensen

No CV is going to just bolt up. You have to have the adapter from MM or a 280ZXT companion flange to get them installed. The instructions on flipping the cage come with the MM adapter. Basically when you flip the cage it shortens the CV about 3/8". If you don't do it then the CV can bottom out as the suspension goes through its travel. Here is a pic: Here is a pic of the 300ZXT CV shafts: 280ZXT shafts: Inside the 280ZXT CV (the one on the right, left is a Porsche). See how big it is?: Inside of a 300ZXT CV: Sorry guys, I didn't want to cause confusion. Just pointing out the differences between the designs...

Don't use silicone on a track car (I wouldn't use it on any car). I like the Super Blue because it is cheap and isn't as sensitive as some of the other racing fluids that have a higher dry boiling point, and it's pretty easy to find too.

Not that it particularly matters, but I think the 280 shafts are larger in diameter, but also weaker because they use the 3 much larger tripod bearings vs the 6 smaller ball bearings in the 300 CV design. 300ZXT has 4 bolt flanges and have an appropriate shaft length (after flipping cage on the driver's side outer CV). NA 300ZX has 6 bolt flanges, but do not work because the shaft length is too long. The 280ZXT has a shorter CV length so this isn't an issue, and uses 6 bolt flanges that are larger bolt spacing and not compatible IIRC than the NA 300ZX. So basically the NA 300ZX is 6 bolt flange, but not usable and that 6 bolt does not match up to the 280 pattern.

That still sounds like thrust angle to me. When you accelerate it drives the rear of the car to the right, turning it to the left. When you decelerate there isn't as much weight on the rear, so the rear tends to move independently to the right. I think you've got the rear end pointed off to the right. That's my SWAG. Could be wrong, but that's what it seems like to me. I have a really hard time believing that the carrier bearings on one side is causing this issue. There is the possibility that something moved after you set the alignment, or that it was set and then the car or the bushings settled and F'ed it up afterwards. Or just use a prybar to lever it out. There isn't so much carrier bearing preload that you need to drop it on the floor, hardly any preload at all really.

Disappointing guys. Sorry it went so badly. I felt bad for BRAAP too. RUSH Motorsports...

Read the rest of the thread, and disregard the thing from Cyind. He got the wrong parts, he just needs to return them and get the sleeves that fit the 280 tubes and he'll be good to go.

The timing chain on the L6's get oiled through the chain tensioner. On the L4's they use an oiler, but it doesn't really look like what you show in your sig. No idea how that piece in the picture would have been used on an L6.

Yes, the side shafts and the pinion flange too, which you'll need to bolt it up to an S30 driveshaft.

I just don't get why anyone would bother with the SU's. It's not that it "doesn't work". Clearly a car will fire up and run with triple SU's. I don't doubt for a second that triple SU's would have better top end than dual SU's. But, I don't think anybody disputes the idea that triple sidedrafts with 6 chokes work better than triple SU's. So why bother with all the labor to get an inferior end result? If you want something custom and you don't want to shell out for Mikunis or webers, you might do like 1_fast_z and have some dual throttle bodies put onto a triple-ish manifold and run MS. There are enough cars out there now with dual TBs that you should be able to source the parts cheaply and the end result would be better. Good luck whatever you decide.

Search on classiczcars.com. They just had a thread on the subject maybe a month ago complete with pictures, etc.

If you really think it's the spiders, just turn one wheel by hand. You'll be able to feel any notchiness or resistance in the gears if there is any.

That is my scattershield that I half-assed together after buying the 12 lb AZC flywheel. It's 2 pieces of 1/8" plate that were bent to match the tunnel shape (poorly) and then stitch welded together, and bolted to the floor.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106974&page=5

It mixes fine, it's not silicone or anything weird like that, so you don't need to flush it. The Super Blue is as the name suggests. So you can just keep bleeding until the fluid coming out of the bleeders is "super blue" and you'll be fine. You can save some time by sucking the fluid out of the reservoirs with a turkey baster.

My suggestion would be ATE Super Blue fluid. Not too expensive, available at most European repair or parts shops, and has a nice high boiling point. Here's some more info: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103862

I thought the 510, 200SX, and truck trans was a couple inches shorter than a Z trans. Just checked it out... http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/tech/transmissions.html So if you got a shorter trans you'd need to have the driveshaft lengthened. A lot of 510 guys run Z transmissions. Run a tape measure down it before you buy and compare with a known Z tranny.

5 and dime. Almost bought a 510 instead when I was looking for my very first Z.

EDIT-- need to read before I post. When you got your car aligned was the thrust angle OK?

I suggest you get it to a dyno before you do too much else, because what you're saying here is contradictory. Unless your cam was way out of whack when you started, higher cylinder pressures should mean less top end. Did you degree the cam when you got it, or did you just throw it in there? To get the most from any cam it needs to be degreed, BRAAP was nice enough to do a good writeup on how to do that: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111523 Timing the cam is different than timing the ignition. On the ignition, the earlier the spark happens the more time the engine has to burn the mixture, so you want more advanced spark timing at high rpms (up to a point usually in the mid 30's degrees BTDC). The cam is opposite. I tried to explain why this is, and couldn't. I looked a bit online and couldn't find a succinct explanation. Check the bottom of this page: http://www.webcamshafts.com/cam_glossary.html

How about a straight shot from the rocker to the SFC in addition to the TC bucket? I just did that on mine, it would take a side impact a heck of a lot better...

I think you have that backwards. The idea there is to brace up the flimsy TC rod bucket. I don't think you'd hurt the side impact protection with the brace, but that isn't it's intention and I definitely wouldn't rely on it.

No clue, but I do have a couple sets of 240 hubs, one with stock studs and one with longer studs. $40 for either set and I'll cover the shipping. PM if you're interested.

That place is a bit expensive, plus you have to pay for shipping. The place I go to locally that has it charges $.67 per foot, but they don't do mail order: http://www.pacificindustrial.com

Unhappy coincidence: http://music.yahoo.com/read/news/34000780