JMortensen

It doesn't really matter what the original brake bias was, unless you want to match it perfectly for some reason. As long as you can get it in the neighborhood you should be fine, then use an adjustable proportioning valve to fine tune from there. You might be able to use this spreadsheet: http://sth2.com/Z-car/Brakemath.xls It is set up for a full race car with dual masters, but if you plug in the same value for the masters it will give you an idea of where the balance will be with respect to braking g forces.

ZX has thicker sheet metal than the Z and the 240 has the thinnest metal of all which I'm sure makes a difference. Like Wagz I also think the infinite adjustability is worth it, and I was just playing around with my voltage and wire speed setting while welding on my Z yesterday.

I once had a similar experience in my Z. I was actually coming home from an open track event and this *** wipe with a riced out Civic with this insanely stupid fiberglass body kit was driving like a retard. I went to pass him just to get away, and he thought I was trying to race him. At this point I was pissed, so I dropped to third and walked away. Then I eased up and went back to a normal speed, and same story as you, he shows up next to me again revving his engine. So I put it in 4th and walked him again. My brother in law showed the guy 4 fingers to tell him what was up. Next time up I left it in 5th and walked him again. My brother in law was laughing his *** off when he showed this jackass 5 fingers and we were still pulling away. By this time attack Honda boy has had enough of being shown how slow his car is, and tries to get around me. We caught up to some traffic on a bridge, and the idiot actually passed 2 cars and a semi in the EMERGENCY LANE ON A BRIDGE. I wasn't about to try and match his feat of stupidity, so that was the end of that story, but it still gets my blood pressure up 6 years later. Ricers make me angry.

Over $400 IIRC, which is the only reason I don't have one. If you search the price is probably in that previous thread.

HS30-H is the member's name. You can also search for Kameari and you should find a couple posts about it.

Well the stock setup drags the chain across the right side guide. This has no guide on the right side at all, so it would probably lessen the drag. Plus it should alleviate chain whip. It should be a much more stable way to run the chain in theory. The manufacturer made some mention that you could spin it to 13,000 rpm or something like that IIRC. Not that the rest of the motor would be capable of that, but apparently the chain is...

Nobody makes one in the states. The manufacturer is Kameari. A couple people on this board bought them through one of our English members, HS30-H.

Anyone seen the aftermarket centrifugal oil filtration setups they use on semis? They spin the oil at 3000g and this forces the heavier soot to the outside of the filter housing where it sticks. Supposedly filter to one micron, and there is no replacement, just open it up and scrape out the sediment that comes out of the oil. The additives in the oil need to be replenished every once in a while with the addition of a couple fresh quarts, but the oil could be used for over 100,000 miles according to the info I was reading a couple years ago. I guess the problem is that they require too large a capacity and too much oil pressure to be effective in passenger cars.

I used an actual 8 ball once. Drilled and tapped it. It was heavy for a shifter. The experience was buzzy. Made no noticeable difference in the shifter, but it rattled like crazy. I took it out after several obnoxious hours.

I know I've told this story before, but I think it might be necessary to make my point. I got hit from ~50 mph by a newer Firebird and pushed into head on traffic where I was hit head on by an Acura legend going 35. The lady who hit me in the Firebird told the cops she never saw me, and she never even touched the brakes. My wife (girlfriend at the time) was in the passenger seat. The Firebird hit low because of that long low nose they have and it hit right about where the rr tail light is. Pushed the back of the car in about a foot, basically bent it up to the rr strut tower. That impact pushed me into the oncoming traffic where I got the Legend more or less head on. That impact spun the car 270º and we ended up at a weird angle in the middle of the street. I broke my nose on the steering wheel and my wife bumped her noggin on the dashboard. None of the glass in the passenger compartment broke, not even the hatch glass. The front was hammered up to the core support, at which point both rails were tweaked for the first inch or so and were both bent off to the left, but weren't really smashed in. The doors did not close, and my wife's door would not open after the accident, but I pulled it open (one of those adrenaline things, it wasn't even close to closing again). Now another story. My buddy is cruising through an intersection in his lowered 69 510 and gets T boned in the driver door by a mid 80's F150 going ~35 or so. I think that guy did hit the brakes, but it was still a pretty bad accident. The whole side of the car was mangled and pushed in a couple inches or so, but my buddy walked away with some really bad bruises and a sore neck. If he had a roll cage in I'm convinced he would be DEAD. His roll bar saved his life, provided a solid structure to take the side impact and didn't brain him. I think the reason roof lines are getting higher and higher in cars is so that your head gets farther away from the top of the door and the roof. Unfortunately in our Z's the roof line is low. I clocked myself in the head pretty good once at an autox with no cage AND a helmet on. I actually rung my bell on the roof just on top of the door when I had a snap spin and the car suddenly stopped. I certainly wouldn't want to take any of that head room away for a street car. The point is, what are you preparing your street car for? Are you going to prepare your car so that a plumber's truck with a ton of equipment in it can hit you at 50 mph? In the back? In the side? In the front? Unfortunately we can't know where the hit is going to come from. If Mike took that hit in the side I think we wouldn't be talking to him today due to the hit to the head he would have taken. And I think my experience shows that Z's are actually pretty good in a rear collision or a head on collision. This I think makes a pretty strong case for a welded in rear strut tower bar and a roll bar that is tucked up as high and as far back as possible. I just don't think padding would have been enough if that plumber T boned you Mike. Just my $.02, Jon

http://www.ebolamonkeyman.com ****CRUDE CONTENT WARNING****

Showed my wife, she said "Awww, and he looked like he was having so much fun, too!"

I'd suggest leaning your mixture and trying a different oil. I used to run ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil in mine. The heavier the oil the more of an accelerator pump action you get. Kinda varies from set to set too. A friend of mine had a pretty similar setup as far as engine and exhaust, but her SU's liked 20 weight oil, where mine liked a much thinner oil. I put ATF in hers and the thing stuttered really bad when you took off from a stop, much like you're describing.

You can buy adapters to use the Z31 turbo shafts from http://www.modern-motorsports.com or you can use the shafts out of a 280Z with an R200 (you can use your existing halfshafts, but you need the little stub shafts that plug into the sides of the diff). I would suggest buying the adapters for a 240, because of the R200 handling issues article on John's site:http://www.betamotorsports.com/benchracing/index.html

IMO you could probably resell it for $500 so the answer is technically yes but I'd sooner pay a little more for a set of 44's, unless it's going on a L24.

LSD makes a HUGE difference in the way the car handles. If you just drive in a straight line maybe it isn't worth it, but if you like corners LSD is a huge advantage. Z31 Turbo diff from 87-89 came with LSD. Good luck finding one. Other than that slim possibility search the drivetrain forum for LSD and you'll find hundreds of posts about them, how to install, where to buy, how they work, etc.

The pp only lines up on the flywheel one way. Turn it 120º, if that doesn't work, turn it another 120.

Paint looks good! Is there no way to slot the holes on the latches to get more adjustment?

No, I've never seen it at a parts store ever. It's actually a farming/heavy industry oil. The Porsche guys found out about it in the 70's during the CanAm years, and they've been using it ever since. Used to be you could buy direct from SWEPCO, but I haven't been able to find them online the last couple times I tried. After a quick search found it for $37/gal, that's about the best price I've seen. http://www.pikeoilco.com/specialty.htm

The gear oil I use, SWEPCO, does something similar. If you put your finger in it and pull it out it will create a spider web like strand off of your finger for 4 or 5 feet before it actually breaks off. I think this is a good thing for gear oil where front pinion bearings have a hard time getting and staying lubricated for instance, but in the engine that seems like a big hp drag. Just imagine how much more oil will be hanging onto the crank as it goes around. It might help an engine that has a bad oiling system design, but if the oiling system is sound then I think it would just create a big heavy crankshaft to spin around unless you have a crank scraper. I have never used Lucas stuff, but that's been my untested impression of the display anyway.

Best to solid mount the entire drivetrain if you solid mount any part of it. If not the weakest link in the chain is going to break. If you just use a solid front diff mount on a stock setup that can often times be the front diff crossmember. If you solid mount the diff and the mustache bar then the weak link becomes the driveshaft. You'll chase that weakness all the way up the drivetrain. Solid mount the trans and the trans crossmember is the weak link. Solid mount it all and now all you have to worry about is your bolts vibrating loose. Just MO, but I've talked to people that it has happened to. That being said, you guys are right, solid mount is definitely better for a race car. Rob has said this is for a street car though. Also I wouldn't give up on AL just yet Rob. Look at some more modern cars and there is plenty of aluminum used in high stress areas like control arms and subframes.

Warping rotors is all about using the wrong pad IMO. Boiling fluid is a different story. Might help to read this: http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm

Did they balance the tires with weights only on the inside of the rim? That would be a STATIC balance. Shops do this a lot of times when they see a pretty set of wheels, and don't want to ruin their appearance by putting weights on them. I've NEVER had a static balance on any of my vehicles that didn't have vibrations. DYNAMIC balance is where it's at. Weights on both the inside and outside of the rim is the only way I've found to cure vibrations at high speed.

Very nice! Congratulations.