JMortensen

Thank you sir.

If you have a flare tool you could just make your own with a short piece of 3/16 brake line with 2 male fittings on it. Would only require one flare and probably cost $3. If you don't have a flare tool I'd just buy two brake lines from NAPA and then find somebody who has the tool and buy em a six pack to do it for you.

Metric grade 8.8 is the equivalent of SAE grade 5, FWIW. I think the metric 10.9 is the equivalent of grade 8. I'd go the junkyard route or contact someone who sells used parts like zparts.com. I don't know the grade of the Nissan bolts, but you really want the correct bolts with the right amount of unthreaded shank on them IMO.

Richard can you post your pics again please? I'm trying to figure out what to do with this part of my project. I'd really appreciate it.

I had a friend swap a FI 280 engine into a 240 about 10 years ago, and the cat was definitely necessary at that time. Any and all smog equipment that came on the doner vehicle had to be on the recipient vehicle. Maybe you talked to a "friendly" referee.

Is it 76 now? If so, I'm sorry for the innaccurate info. Just go down to DMV, don't mention the V8 and they'll probably register it without any inspection whatsoever.

The law in CA says that you can only swap in a newer motor into an older chassis, and when you do you have to have all of the legal smog equipment for that engine in the car it originally came in. Probably the easiest thing to do to bring it into legality would be to research the engine serial number, buy one of those trucks that came with the 400, hopefully broken, and swap all the smog crap onto this engine. The other option is to get a Z that is smog exempt (I believe that 75 and earlier are now exempt) and swap all the stuff from your car into it. I would definitely go this route, because it will be a lot easier and you can keep all the performance stuff on the engine.

The 911 guys that I've seen do this dipped a tire in the dirt and then tried to get back on. The *** end comes out, then the car gets traction and now does 100 mph across the track instead of down the track. Kinda like NASCAR when they get sideways and then catch traction and go straight into the wall.

Why not just do a better diff mount than the stock one? There have been several good ideas for improving the stock mount, then you wouldn't need to solidly mount the rest of the drivetrain and you wouldn't have to worry about the stupid strap breaking. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=2501&size=big&cat=1&page=1 http://63.230.175.50:8884/Files/Datsun/LSD-Brace/Diff-Mount.htm http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=95128 EDIT--The last one changes the pinion angle for V8 swaps, so I don't think you'd want to use that one as is, might have to modify for the correct pinion angle.

That's a lot of project. I think if you try to complete the project now you'll be "car poor", but if you're committed to it you should just keep acquiring stuff and then do the modifications as the budget allows. Only problem with that idea is when I was your age I moved about every year for about 8 years, and moving your horde of parts is kind of a hassle.

I thought only Porsche guys did that...

Oops, yeah I think Peter is right. There is the adjustment between the pedal and the booster, then there is a second rod between the reaction disc and the back of the master. So you would have to take the master off the booster, pull the pin and look at it. Maybe you can adjust it there, maybe you can modify it, maybe you'll have to get a spacer. The reaction disk is a little rubber disk. If it falls out of it's little spot you'll be chasing all kinds of other problems, so make sure you put it back in if it falls out when you're messing around in there. Isn't this convenient? http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=15854

What we're really talking about is roll center. If you want to learn more about them, search the suspension forum or google it. Bump steer has also been beat to death. Search either and you can read for hours. Hell, just search alignment, caster, camber, toe, and roll center. It's all in there.

I just happened to have an old booster and master sitting right here. Took a pic for you. There is a lot of threaded end where the pedal attaches to the pin. I'm still thinking you might be able to adjust it out there.

Wait just a minute. On my 240 there is a spacer that has the mounting holes on the sides, and that spacer has studs on top and bottom. I don't think you can bolt up the master without the spacer. I wonder if your PO used a different master and had to get rid of the spacer because it wouldn't bolt up with it on. Any pics?

Well that would be a problem. That spacer is about 10mm thick. You might still be able to adjust it out from inside the car without having to make anything.

The pilot supports the transmission input shaft.

Did the chair lift at Big Bear once. Man was that fun. We actually made kind of a cross country thing out of it, made a ~20 mile ride with 1/2 the hills. Oliver, if you haven't yet, try a bike with full suspension. I started on a rigid Montagna in 87 or so (remember those crappy bikes with the oval BioRythm chainrings?) then stopped riding for about five years. Started again with a Specialized Stump Jumper with a fork, never really liked the front suspended and the back rigid. Moved onto a mid 90's GT LT2 which I rode until about 2 years ago when I suffered a catastrophic fork failure and hugged a tree at about 20 mph. That bike was fun, had 3" travel and was still only 27 lbs. I guess I just like to jump too much and caused that failure. New bike is a Specialized Big Hit. Perfect for all the log crossings and stuff in the northwest, but it is a bit of a pig at 35 lbs. Can't beat the disc brakes and cushy suspension though.

I've moved the pivot and run a bumpsteer spacer. You just need to measure the bumpsteer when you're doing all this. If you just do the JTR pivot relocation and get xx thickness bumpsteer spacers, it's gonna be wrong. But if you measure everything first, you can make it right. Running the car really low can be done successfully, and can be made very fast. All it requires is VERY stiff springs and the expensive struts to control them. Search for Cary's posts (tube80z). He runs a low roll center, and according to some people who are faster than me, he is faster than them.

99% of the people out there with their car slammed don't even understand what handling problems occur when you lower a car too much. They don't know that what they've done is bad for the car's handling, and most of them just don't care. They care about how it looks. Bigger wheels and lower suspension is the look right now, so that's what you're going to see, regardless of what it does to the car's handling. As to the rear suspension, there really isn't much you can do to fix the control arm angle without some major work. Moving the inner pivot is not easy in the rear since the front bushing of the rear control arm is located by the subframe itself. If you don't care to modify the frame you can weld up a new strut with the wheel bearing hole higher in relation to the bottom of the strut and that would work kind of like a drop spindle. JamieT was working on one. Also there is a guy who goes by the handle Panchovisa on classiczcars.com who has figured out a rear toe/camber adjuster that would help the rear control arm angle. Both are not easy solutions. The rear control arm angle isn't as important as the front regardless, and IIRC it doesn't go past horizontal nearly as quickly as the front.

I think I may know what the problem is. If I'm right the rod from the brake pedal that pushes on the back of the master cylinder is adjusted out too far. When this happens the pressure is never fully released, because the little hole between the reservoir and the piston inside the master cylinder never opens up. So the longer you drive the more heat goes into the brakes, which makes the fluid expand which essentially pushes on the brakes a little harder and a little harder until you're trying to drive with the brakes on. I had this exact problem on my clutch, which in the clutch showed up as a normal working clutch, and as we drove it started slipping more and more and more, because the clutch fluid was expanding more and more and more.There should be 1/8" or 3/16" free play between the pedal starting to move and the pin engaging the back of the master cylinder.

I'm not sure on this, so don't go buy parts. Do what Tim suggested first, then consider the following: 1. I think maybe you blew out the master. If the pedal hasn't gone to the floor in 10 years crap builds up inside the master. Then you come along and put some new calipers in the front and push the brakes to the floor and that drags the pistons in the master cylinder over the gunky crap in the master, possibly tearing the seals. Try bleeding again, but you may find that it doesn't get any better. 2. I never use sticky stuff to prevent brake squeal, instead use synthetic brake grease on the back of the pad. Learned that when I worked for Volvo, who are notorious for squeaky brakes (only factory pads and rotors and greasing the pads makes them stop). Pull the pads back out, clean the back off, and put a thin layer of grease where the pistons hit the pad and where the pad rides in the caliper if it really bothers you. Also there is some debate as to whether chamfering the pads works, I think it does. 3. Sounds like a stuck piston in a caliper to me. IME if it pulls left it's the left caliper that is stuck. 4. Dunno. Might relate to #1. I can tell you this. If the rear brakes are way out of adjustment the pedal goes soft, and the ebrake throw gets long. I'd adjust the rear brakes and look for any signs of leaky wheel cylinders while you're in there. If your master took a crap that might explain this because there is a check valve in the rear brakes that keeps the shoes from retracting all the way. If that wasn't working anymore then maybe the shoes are retracting all the way back, and causing a long pedal and ebrake throw.

Is this a left side bracket on the right side problem? Just a guess. On my old Nissan rear calipers the pistons have to be SCREWED back in. If you look at the pistons you might see three or 4 dimples around the end of the piston. You can either buy a caliper tool, or just stick a screwdriver or needle nose pliers in the divots and screw them in. Righty tighty should get you a lot more clearance for the pads. EDIT--Oops, somehow I missed Mongo and Dan's responses, looks to me like they've got the right idea. BTW--I used the 240SX cable in my Z and it worked great. All you have to do is remove the rear bell crank and attach the cable directly to the handle. Then just hold the cable up to the rear floor area and mount the brackets to the floor wherever it's convenient. That's how I ran mine for years, worked great.

Really? Fire Woman? She Sells Sanctuary? Wildflower? Never heard those? They were really popular in the early 90's, never my favorite, a little pop for my taste. Lead singer has really long black hair that all the 14 year old girls swooned for... Heard of them, never listened to them. Have to check them out now. My big revelation recently has been "stoner rock". I'd never heard of that classification before, but I've been liking this type of music forever. I always liked the hardest edged stuff on the radio, and it is really the lighter side of stoner rock. My next concert (already bought tickets) is going to be Alabama Thunderpussy, Weedeater, Fu Manchu, and Corrosion of Conformity. Can't wait. Other stoner rock bands I've run across that I really like would include Isis, Kyuss (the band before QOTSA), Mondo Generator, Honcho, Orange Goblin, Clutch, the Melvins, Unida, and Halfway to Gone. My friend dragged me to the Melvins with Jello Biafra on New Years Eve this year. At the time I'd only heard vague references to Jello as that freaky punk guy who tried to run for mayor of San Francisco, and I knew that the Melvins were a local band. That was a damn good show. When I found out about this "stoner rock" I searched on the internet, and found http://www.stonerrock.com. If you jump to this link: http://www.stonerrock.com/store/browse2.asp?JumpTo=CD you can buy CD's right from the site. The good part about this is that almost every CD has an mp3 that you can download as a degraded quality sample. The degraded quality is about radio quality from what I hear, so they aren't bad at all. I found the site and downloaded a buttload of mp3's just to get a taste of every band on the site. There is a lot of crap on there, but I did find some really good stuff too, including all the bands I listed above.