JMortensen

RPMs- You gotta watch the whole thing. I thought it was sorta funny until about the last 10 seconds. Then it gets HILARIOUS!

Bumpsteer spacers are a good idea for getting the control arm pointing down more and getting more neg camber gain when the suspension compresses. They just don't fix the bumpsteer problem. I think it was Coffey who said they should be called "camber curve adjusters".

Well, I guess you have a point, but most people have no idea what the heck it is in the first place. They might have a problem and never realize it. I think that is usually what happens. Or they get some bumpsteer spacers and think that the problem has been solved when it is not.

Aux, what have you been smoking? Raising the pivot will give more negative camber gain during compression than keeping it at the stock lower location. I've never been on a track that was glassy smooth, and the track is IMO the only place you would ever notice it, unless you're driving on the street like you're trying to get arrested... Here's a good explanation of what bumpsteer feels like http://www.steeda.com/PR/Mustang/bumpsteer/bumpsteer.htm There is one bump at Buttonwillow, go CW over the hill and then there it is, about a 10' rise, then flat again. I used to hit that at the top of 3rd and my Z would do a pretty good twitch every time. Fixed the bumpsteer and it was rock solid through there. Also on the long sweeper there I could keep a steady line, but I was sawing on the wheel all the way through. Did the bumpsteer change, and it is much smoother on the wheel. To get it right you need to MEASURE it, not just move it x inches. Jon

If you go to the site that has the fake Google page http://www.albinoblacksheep.com and check out the video library they have some cool stuff. I like the "protesting the protestors" parts I and II, along with Four Minutes with Frank Chu. I'm sure John Coffey and some others would agree...

http://www.ztherapy.com Simplest carbs I've ever seen outside of a lawn mower or weedwhacker Refurbished better than new carbs with roller shafts and grose jets $595 Instructional video $15 (if you're not an expert, you WILL be) Unisyn $35 Total cost is $645 and they bolt right up. Throw in a $5 screwdriver from the hardware store and you're good to go. Ported carbs are $650 and flow 340cfm IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION. Does a 390 cfm Holley flow 390 cfm when there is a wall of aluminum right underneath it? I've never tested it, but I have my doubts... Bottom line for me is I know which induction I like best... MIKUNIS!

Am I reading this right? The piston is all the way back in the clutch master, you have play between the rod and the master, and on the slave the piston is ALL THE WAY extended? If so, I'd say you have the wrong pin for the slave or the wrong slave. The pin needs to be long enough so that the slave is able to get some throw. If the pin is too short than the slave cylinder won't have enough throw to push the fork. BUT- if you read it another way, it sounds like the difference between a manual adjusting slave and an auto adjuster. The manually adjusting slave has a long threaded pin and a return spring on the slave. You set the gap between the pedal movement and when the throwout bearing touches the pp. In the auto adjusting slave, it's more like a caliper piston (as I understand it). You push on the clutch, and it pushes the pin into the fork. When you let off the clutch, the fork pushes the pin back, and it might get a little more pull back from the seals in the cylinder itself, but the pin is always extended so that it touches the fork. One thing I've seen people do on both brake and clutch master cylinder bleeds is jam the pedal down really hard. This causes thousands of little tiny bubbles to get injected into the reservoir, and the more you bench bleed like this, the finer the bubbles that go into the system. If you started your bleeding adventure this way, I'd say you just let it alone for a day or two. The clutch system should be "open" so that without the clutch being depressed the port to the reservoir is open. So if you leave it alone eventually most of the air bubbles in the system will float to the top and into the reservoir, and the system should basically bleed itself to some extent.

My point is really that Dave's proof is that one guy who has built a bunch of SU's prefers the 4 barrel and won a car show. That doesn't prove anything. I totally agree with you brokebolt, as usual Dave, you've sold 800 manifolds? That's impressive. I would think that there is enough profit in those 800 manifold sales to buy a set of ZTherapy SU's and take your setup and a ZTherapy setup and do some dyno runs and have ACTUAL proof of what you're saying.

THIS is the reason why people buy the 4 barrel carb setup. Nothing wrong with it, but this is exactly the reason IMO.

THIS is the reason why people buy the 4 barrel carb setup. Nothing wrong with it, but this is exactly the reason IMO.

Do you have a 4 barrel customer running 12 second quarter miles??? Kinda funny that I would use Norm as an example, but I'm betting you don't...

plainswolf - If you ever decide to go back, these guys have all the parts you could ever need and an instructional video. http://www.ztherapy.com/

I'd be scared to race that Z. Truly a thing of beauty!

What about spoilers for hatches? Are they more prone to come apart if you're using a fiberglass hatch? I know John Washington just started offering a "skin only" 7 lb fiberglass hatch. Seems like if you put a spoiler on that it would flex a lot, possibly come apart? Would it be better to get one with the inside frame if running a spoiler? Sorry for the extreme ignorance, and thanks for answering dumb questions. Hood and particularly the hatch seem like the best things to do, because they get that high weight off the car, but I don't want to get something and have it last a couple races then be patching the glass... Jon

That also works for the 22RE. I used vaseline.

Could be that the clutch rod is already too long (happened to me once). That would keep the port from the reservoir into the master from ever opening. Should have about 1/8" free play in the pin before it engages the master at all.

So what is the practical difference between a fiberglass or carbon fiber hood that is pinned on? Just weight? Seems like John's been making a bit of a noise about "cheap" carbon fiber too. What's the difference???

Yes, the plan is to redesign the uprights. I don't think there's enough room on the stock uprights to make too much adjustment, plus I wanted them to be a little stronger for the sway bar. I also thought it would be good to beef them up anyway since Wayne Burnstein told me he's seen ITS cars cracking the uprights. I agree about the parts cars. I always grab as many nuts and bolts as possible. The captured nut thing seems to have fixed itself. I looked at the threads in the nut and they weren't that bad. The threads on the bolt were pretty bad though. So I took a couple of bolts from the strap holders (since I'm not using them anymore) and ran them in one at a time, and by the third bolt the threads were effectively "chased" and now it looks like they'll hold just fine, so that part of the project has been effectively dealt with. I have a good bolt to use there, so I'll just tighten it up and if it strips out then I'll tap for an SAE bolt. I don't have any undercoating on the bottom, just paint. For the interior sound deadener, I removed some with an air chisel and the bulk came off REALLY EASILY. I got that trick from an old post on floorboard replacement.

That could work John, but I think I want something stiffer just for my own peace of mind. Also looking to do a rear mounted sway bar too, and I don't know if .059 is strong enough to take the extra force of the sway bar. Just a little scary to trust it all to sheet metal (probably more my own mental hang up than anything else, but there it is.

What are you talking about Aux?

More progress-- Completed the Jeromio style (he would say the Simon de Groot) xmember/diff mount. Used the Energy Suspension 2005 bushings and 1" ID pipe for the mount, left it hanging out on both sides so that I didn't have to cut the diff mount itself. Looks good, too bad it will still be months before I get to test it out. That's OK though, because I figure aside from fluid changes and adjustments I won't need to change anything major in the back for at least a few years if I do it ALL now. Plus it's not like I have a deadline. Haven't gotten into the stitch welding yet, because I need to sell some parts to fund the fuel cell. Parts will be going to brother in law or on ebay, just have to figure out which. I'd really like to sell him all my old stuff, but it doesn't look like he has the cash. Got my 4:11 on the way, Mat's sleeves too. Need to order up some different clutches for the diff and some rear wheel bgs and seals. Got 3" ARP wheel studs from an RX7. 280 stub axles. It's getting there. At least the pile of parts is getting bigger... Next project is going to be the poor man's toe adjuster http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=29645&highlight=poor+adjuster. Trying to figure out what type of metal to use. Could use 1/4" aluminum like Terry (but I'm still using a separate mustache bar) or thinking about using 1/8" plate steel, this way I can do the welding. Any opinions on this?

Maybe its just me, but I always get "sprung".

My brother in law says that one. Boy we sure turned this into potty humor quick, huh?

Prairie Dogging has a distinctively different meaning to me, as in your buddy says "What's wrong with you?" and you say "Dude, I'm prairiedogging. I gotta find a bathroom." It often is associated with the "Coffee Attack", another one I don't see on your list.

If you do a search you'll find lots of previous discussions. Bottom line is that the 1 and 6 cylinders starve and the 90* turn that the fuel has to make is crappy. Tune the SU's if they're the round top style, or get the round top style if you have the flat top kind. Sorry, didn't read. Your 70 should have the good carbs.