JMortensen

My point is really that Dave's proof is that one guy who has built a bunch of SU's prefers the 4 barrel and won a car show. That doesn't prove anything. I totally agree with you brokebolt, as usual Dave, you've sold 800 manifolds? That's impressive. I would think that there is enough profit in those 800 manifold sales to buy a set of ZTherapy SU's and take your setup and a ZTherapy setup and do some dyno runs and have ACTUAL proof of what you're saying.

THIS is the reason why people buy the 4 barrel carb setup. Nothing wrong with it, but this is exactly the reason IMO.

THIS is the reason why people buy the 4 barrel carb setup. Nothing wrong with it, but this is exactly the reason IMO.

Do you have a 4 barrel customer running 12 second quarter miles??? Kinda funny that I would use Norm as an example, but I'm betting you don't...

plainswolf - If you ever decide to go back, these guys have all the parts you could ever need and an instructional video. http://www.ztherapy.com/

I'd be scared to race that Z. Truly a thing of beauty!

What about spoilers for hatches? Are they more prone to come apart if you're using a fiberglass hatch? I know John Washington just started offering a "skin only" 7 lb fiberglass hatch. Seems like if you put a spoiler on that it would flex a lot, possibly come apart? Would it be better to get one with the inside frame if running a spoiler? Sorry for the extreme ignorance, and thanks for answering dumb questions. Hood and particularly the hatch seem like the best things to do, because they get that high weight off the car, but I don't want to get something and have it last a couple races then be patching the glass... Jon

That also works for the 22RE. I used vaseline.

Could be that the clutch rod is already too long (happened to me once). That would keep the port from the reservoir into the master from ever opening. Should have about 1/8" free play in the pin before it engages the master at all.

So what is the practical difference between a fiberglass or carbon fiber hood that is pinned on? Just weight? Seems like John's been making a bit of a noise about "cheap" carbon fiber too. What's the difference???

Yes, the plan is to redesign the uprights. I don't think there's enough room on the stock uprights to make too much adjustment, plus I wanted them to be a little stronger for the sway bar. I also thought it would be good to beef them up anyway since Wayne Burnstein told me he's seen ITS cars cracking the uprights. I agree about the parts cars. I always grab as many nuts and bolts as possible. The captured nut thing seems to have fixed itself. I looked at the threads in the nut and they weren't that bad. The threads on the bolt were pretty bad though. So I took a couple of bolts from the strap holders (since I'm not using them anymore) and ran them in one at a time, and by the third bolt the threads were effectively "chased" and now it looks like they'll hold just fine, so that part of the project has been effectively dealt with. I have a good bolt to use there, so I'll just tighten it up and if it strips out then I'll tap for an SAE bolt. I don't have any undercoating on the bottom, just paint. For the interior sound deadener, I removed some with an air chisel and the bulk came off REALLY EASILY. I got that trick from an old post on floorboard replacement.

That could work John, but I think I want something stiffer just for my own peace of mind. Also looking to do a rear mounted sway bar too, and I don't know if .059 is strong enough to take the extra force of the sway bar. Just a little scary to trust it all to sheet metal (probably more my own mental hang up than anything else, but there it is.

What are you talking about Aux?

More progress-- Completed the Jeromio style (he would say the Simon de Groot) xmember/diff mount. Used the Energy Suspension 2005 bushings and 1" ID pipe for the mount, left it hanging out on both sides so that I didn't have to cut the diff mount itself. Looks good, too bad it will still be months before I get to test it out. That's OK though, because I figure aside from fluid changes and adjustments I won't need to change anything major in the back for at least a few years if I do it ALL now. Plus it's not like I have a deadline. Haven't gotten into the stitch welding yet, because I need to sell some parts to fund the fuel cell. Parts will be going to brother in law or on ebay, just have to figure out which. I'd really like to sell him all my old stuff, but it doesn't look like he has the cash. Got my 4:11 on the way, Mat's sleeves too. Need to order up some different clutches for the diff and some rear wheel bgs and seals. Got 3" ARP wheel studs from an RX7. 280 stub axles. It's getting there. At least the pile of parts is getting bigger... Next project is going to be the poor man's toe adjuster http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=29645&highlight=poor+adjuster. Trying to figure out what type of metal to use. Could use 1/4" aluminum like Terry (but I'm still using a separate mustache bar) or thinking about using 1/8" plate steel, this way I can do the welding. Any opinions on this?

Maybe its just me, but I always get "sprung".

My brother in law says that one. Boy we sure turned this into potty humor quick, huh?

Prairie Dogging has a distinctively different meaning to me, as in your buddy says "What's wrong with you?" and you say "Dude, I'm prairiedogging. I gotta find a bathroom." It often is associated with the "Coffee Attack", another one I don't see on your list.

If you do a search you'll find lots of previous discussions. Bottom line is that the 1 and 6 cylinders starve and the 90* turn that the fuel has to make is crappy. Tune the SU's if they're the round top style, or get the round top style if you have the flat top kind. Sorry, didn't read. Your 70 should have the good carbs.

Poly or G Machine bushing goes to the front on a Z or a ZX. When you brake, the rod on a Z gets pushed by the control arm into the front bushing, on a ZX the rod pulls on the front bushing by the control arm. The rear doesn't carry any braking load in either situation which is where this upgrade makes a difference.

I'd put a urethane on the front and one of the old rubber bushings on the back and see how hard it is to move the rod. If there is a lot of resistance, then consider all rubber or GMachine with a rubber bushing in back as an alternative.

Nice testimonial!

That vid with your cousin was REALLY COOL! I used to have this guy I autoxed against every month. We were in different classes, but we were usually within .1 seconds total time. Sometimes he would win, sometimes I would win, but nothing makes racing more exciting than having some close competition. Thanks for sharing!!!

We are basically arguing whether Superman could beat up Mighty Mouse is what I'm saying. This is all purely theoretical. John has what 30K in his engine? More? 40? Put that into the RB and you can make it bulletproof. Comparing a near stock RB26 to a JGTC is not appropriate, you're absolutely right. Either is comparing John's car to some tuner car. I can show you a car with 275 hp that will run John's Z down like a dog in the street. It's called a formula atlantic. But it doesn't prove a thing. Apples to oranges. John is obviously seriously down on power to the Skyline, but he has a well sorted chassis that makes up the difference. My point was that if you threw enough money and more importantly know how at a Skyline you could make it faster than John's Z. I stand by that statement, and I'll be happy to prove it if someone would like to fund my experiment. Again a futile argument because you could throw more money at John's car. And back again to the Skyline, etc ad infinitum.

The difference between Terry's and Dave's is that Terry's entire drivetrain is rigidly mounted including the front of the diff, so the pinion would not move up and down at all on his car. Jon

http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/detailfs?userid={7DC317B0-8EDB-4B2E-A837-F708D07C9769}&ndx=25&slideshow=0&AlbumId={17E71651-3EF8-4704-9954-22956DF10FCB}&GroupId={3B8751D4-D564-4405-8017-F14E1CDA9AF0}&screenheight=768 Terry's stuff is so cool...