JMortensen

Thanks Pop. I was hoping I wasn't the only one... I love the "magnificent animal" BS. Like the cockroach you stepped on a week ago or that head of lettuce you bought at the grocery store wants to live any less than the lion. If anyone eats meat and hasn't killed, gutted, skinned, cooked and eaten their own food at least once I think that you owe it to the animals you're eating to do so. It really is a blood and guts world out there folks.

I know this backlash thing is an old post from Feb of last year, but here's what I just found. Just measured my new used diff and it was .007 backlash. I know the diffs that run backwards in the front of a 4x4 are set looser on the backlash. .007 is more "usual" for a backlash setting. Jon

Can't both the Konis and the AD struts be disassembled and revalved? Might be a solution for Cary's problem anyway...

IME, and it is very limited with the KA, the lifters in the KA can't handle autox. They bleed down and the engine rattles really really bad for several minutes after a run with a not very prepared vehicle. I'm not sure how much permanent damage that causes (if any), but it seems to happen with KAs and VGs. There might be a fix for that too (I know very little about them), but I thought I should share. If you are really planning on autoxing you might want to consider what class this will put you in. You'll probably go into some really fast mod class with a weaker 4 cyl. A friend of mine just build an L20B with 6" rods, big overbore, and I think the crank was Z22, but I'm not positive on that one. Head was the peanut chamber head from SSS 510 with 1.5" runners. Pretty sweet, but I'd rather have the extra torque and hp from the 6.

That's cool man, glad it worked out. Having pulled those caps off with the block upside down with no pistons, rods, clutch, and flywheel, they were a bitch. I can see now that you've explained it how the weight of the rotating parts would help. Good job!

We need a "biting my tongue" emoticon...

I don't think they have email. I tried the other day and ended up just calling them instead. Here's their website: http://www.ground-control.com/ Heard nothing but good things from the few people I know or talk to on the net who have used them.

RB26 and you're draft eligible! Oh, then there's that porn thing too... Congrats!

It's going to be a completely different feel and I think it would be hard to give a "seat of the pants" judgement, datsunlover. Those secondaries open up and your bound to think "WOW, this thing hauls butt!" When I was trying to get my 240 to pass smog I drove it to the smog place with the timing severely retarded. Thing had no power at all, but when the mechanical advance kicked in it would spin the tires. In 3rd gear. If I didn't know any better I would think it had a lot of power (it was breaking the tires loose in 3rd), but really it was just that it was suddenly getting back some of the power that it had lost from the drastic timing change that I had made. Dyno proof is proof of power. EGT on each cylinder would be proof of the lean #1 and #6. Listening to a guy who admits that he has no idea about SU's but does know that his were totally worn out talk about the improvement that the brand new 4 bbl made is just that, like you pointed out. This is the only part of this whole thing that I don't buy. I think this is a good product for people who can't tune SU's or want to get rid of flat tops that don't run well anymore. I have NO DOUBT that plainswolf found a big increase in performance by bolting this thing on. I'm feeling like I'm coming off like the guy who has something against Dave, but I have REPEATEDLY defended his oil pan, and I have bought from him 4 or 5 times now. Just wanted to point that out.

Yes, there was a turboed 4 barrel that was bought recently by one of the guys here, I think it was Bob Hanvey(?) Extremely fast, widebody kit, really really incredible car. Was set up for road racing. I think Bob was going to put an RB26DETT in it IIRC. I've seen others too, but that one... Here's some pics: http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/rb26swap/72Datsun.html As to this: I guess that's the reason those same vehicles came with that AWESOME log style exhaust manifold, right? Because they wouldn't put it on there for decades if it wasn't flawed... [/url]

On another thread we figured out that 12mm OD 10mm ID tubing can be cut for the bolt spacers. Mat73GNZ did this, and I just got a set of spacers from him. Haven't used them yet, but he said they worked fine on his diff. If anyone needs some you might want to contact him. Not sure how much material he has, but it's the easy way out of that situation. Jon

Good luck.

Yeah, first year they were available to the public IIRC. Big black thing with whatever the Vette motor was LT1 or LS1 at the time. Media made a big deal out of it.

Yeah wiring is going to be a PITA. It's got AC and he's taking that out, so I can already see in my mind all the wirenuts and crappy dealer installed stuff under the dash... V8 would definitely be the way to cheap power, but in autox its also a direct route to a good ass whooping.

EXACTLY!

I don't think swaps were ever "legal". Smog was not required, but that's not the same as saying swaps are kosher. They are legal if you swap in all the smog stuff that is appropriate for the new engine and pass the smog regs associated with the year of the engine you install (and it has to be newer than the original car). Cancelling your Sierra Club membership or not donating to any of the other environmental charities or associations would do more than protesting to Arnold. Maybe next time around CA guys don't vote for Pelosi or Boxer. Arnold is after all the governor who swapped a Vette engine into his Hummer... Jon

Oops I think you're right.

Can't you just redrill the stub axles in back? I seem to remember Mike Gibson had a template to drill them right on the car...

On the interior sound deadener if it is hardened like mine an air chisel pops it right off. At least most of it, you can clean the remnants up pretty easy. Someone posted that a while ago and I tried it in my hatch area and was pretty amazed how easy the stuff came up. Jon

It's really not that hard to adjust, the tools are basic, and the procedure is basic, so I think you're selling yourself short. But as you said, definitely not for the casual track day guy or the street driver. But when you're on the track and you get that big twitch, it is really worth it IMO.

I would guess that the pivots on the hinges are loose. If you open the door you should be able to grab it near the handle and lift up and see if there is any slop in the hinges. If your weatherstripping is bad or gone that would make the door rattle too.

Is it just my monitor or did he cut out huge portions of the fenderwells and then not reinforce anything???

Looks a bit funky, but it might work. The hinge is the part that throws me off. I just got a big piece of steel and attached two magnetic based dial indicators to it, which seems easier than building that contraption.

Good excuse to buy a coolant pressure tester!

That rule of thumb probably relates well to bump steer spacers, because it would return the camber curve to stock, be even ther it is flawed. It only deals with the lowering from sectioning struts or cutting springs or adjusting coilovers, and does not apply to lowering that occurs with installing camber plates which doesn't change the control arm angle. If you search on bumpsteer I know I've explained how I did mine a couple times. I did the cheap and easy 2 dial indicators on magnetic bases way, vs buying a $300 bump steer gauge. Worked for me. Jon