JMortensen

RB26 and you're draft eligible! Oh, then there's that porn thing too... Congrats!

It's going to be a completely different feel and I think it would be hard to give a "seat of the pants" judgement, datsunlover. Those secondaries open up and your bound to think "WOW, this thing hauls butt!" When I was trying to get my 240 to pass smog I drove it to the smog place with the timing severely retarded. Thing had no power at all, but when the mechanical advance kicked in it would spin the tires. In 3rd gear. If I didn't know any better I would think it had a lot of power (it was breaking the tires loose in 3rd), but really it was just that it was suddenly getting back some of the power that it had lost from the drastic timing change that I had made. Dyno proof is proof of power. EGT on each cylinder would be proof of the lean #1 and #6. Listening to a guy who admits that he has no idea about SU's but does know that his were totally worn out talk about the improvement that the brand new 4 bbl made is just that, like you pointed out. This is the only part of this whole thing that I don't buy. I think this is a good product for people who can't tune SU's or want to get rid of flat tops that don't run well anymore. I have NO DOUBT that plainswolf found a big increase in performance by bolting this thing on. I'm feeling like I'm coming off like the guy who has something against Dave, but I have REPEATEDLY defended his oil pan, and I have bought from him 4 or 5 times now. Just wanted to point that out.

Yes, there was a turboed 4 barrel that was bought recently by one of the guys here, I think it was Bob Hanvey(?) Extremely fast, widebody kit, really really incredible car. Was set up for road racing. I think Bob was going to put an RB26DETT in it IIRC. I've seen others too, but that one... Here's some pics: http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/rb26swap/72Datsun.html As to this: I guess that's the reason those same vehicles came with that AWESOME log style exhaust manifold, right? Because they wouldn't put it on there for decades if it wasn't flawed... [/url]

On another thread we figured out that 12mm OD 10mm ID tubing can be cut for the bolt spacers. Mat73GNZ did this, and I just got a set of spacers from him. Haven't used them yet, but he said they worked fine on his diff. If anyone needs some you might want to contact him. Not sure how much material he has, but it's the easy way out of that situation. Jon

Good luck.

Yeah, first year they were available to the public IIRC. Big black thing with whatever the Vette motor was LT1 or LS1 at the time. Media made a big deal out of it.

Yeah wiring is going to be a PITA. It's got AC and he's taking that out, so I can already see in my mind all the wirenuts and crappy dealer installed stuff under the dash... V8 would definitely be the way to cheap power, but in autox its also a direct route to a good ass whooping.

EXACTLY!

I don't think swaps were ever "legal". Smog was not required, but that's not the same as saying swaps are kosher. They are legal if you swap in all the smog stuff that is appropriate for the new engine and pass the smog regs associated with the year of the engine you install (and it has to be newer than the original car). Cancelling your Sierra Club membership or not donating to any of the other environmental charities or associations would do more than protesting to Arnold. Maybe next time around CA guys don't vote for Pelosi or Boxer. Arnold is after all the governor who swapped a Vette engine into his Hummer... Jon

Oops I think you're right.

Can't you just redrill the stub axles in back? I seem to remember Mike Gibson had a template to drill them right on the car...

On the interior sound deadener if it is hardened like mine an air chisel pops it right off. At least most of it, you can clean the remnants up pretty easy. Someone posted that a while ago and I tried it in my hatch area and was pretty amazed how easy the stuff came up. Jon

It's really not that hard to adjust, the tools are basic, and the procedure is basic, so I think you're selling yourself short. But as you said, definitely not for the casual track day guy or the street driver. But when you're on the track and you get that big twitch, it is really worth it IMO.

I would guess that the pivots on the hinges are loose. If you open the door you should be able to grab it near the handle and lift up and see if there is any slop in the hinges. If your weatherstripping is bad or gone that would make the door rattle too.

Is it just my monitor or did he cut out huge portions of the fenderwells and then not reinforce anything???

Looks a bit funky, but it might work. The hinge is the part that throws me off. I just got a big piece of steel and attached two magnetic based dial indicators to it, which seems easier than building that contraption.

Good excuse to buy a coolant pressure tester!

That rule of thumb probably relates well to bump steer spacers, because it would return the camber curve to stock, be even ther it is flawed. It only deals with the lowering from sectioning struts or cutting springs or adjusting coilovers, and does not apply to lowering that occurs with installing camber plates which doesn't change the control arm angle. If you search on bumpsteer I know I've explained how I did mine a couple times. I did the cheap and easy 2 dial indicators on magnetic bases way, vs buying a $300 bump steer gauge. Worked for me. Jon

RPMs- You gotta watch the whole thing. I thought it was sorta funny until about the last 10 seconds. Then it gets HILARIOUS!

Bumpsteer spacers are a good idea for getting the control arm pointing down more and getting more neg camber gain when the suspension compresses. They just don't fix the bumpsteer problem. I think it was Coffey who said they should be called "camber curve adjusters".

Well, I guess you have a point, but most people have no idea what the heck it is in the first place. They might have a problem and never realize it. I think that is usually what happens. Or they get some bumpsteer spacers and think that the problem has been solved when it is not.

Aux, what have you been smoking? Raising the pivot will give more negative camber gain during compression than keeping it at the stock lower location. I've never been on a track that was glassy smooth, and the track is IMO the only place you would ever notice it, unless you're driving on the street like you're trying to get arrested... Here's a good explanation of what bumpsteer feels like http://www.steeda.com/PR/Mustang/bumpsteer/bumpsteer.htm There is one bump at Buttonwillow, go CW over the hill and then there it is, about a 10' rise, then flat again. I used to hit that at the top of 3rd and my Z would do a pretty good twitch every time. Fixed the bumpsteer and it was rock solid through there. Also on the long sweeper there I could keep a steady line, but I was sawing on the wheel all the way through. Did the bumpsteer change, and it is much smoother on the wheel. To get it right you need to MEASURE it, not just move it x inches. Jon

If you go to the site that has the fake Google page http://www.albinoblacksheep.com and check out the video library they have some cool stuff. I like the "protesting the protestors" parts I and II, along with Four Minutes with Frank Chu. I'm sure John Coffey and some others would agree...

http://www.ztherapy.com Simplest carbs I've ever seen outside of a lawn mower or weedwhacker Refurbished better than new carbs with roller shafts and grose jets $595 Instructional video $15 (if you're not an expert, you WILL be) Unisyn $35 Total cost is $645 and they bolt right up. Throw in a $5 screwdriver from the hardware store and you're good to go. Ported carbs are $650 and flow 340cfm IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION. Does a 390 cfm Holley flow 390 cfm when there is a wall of aluminum right underneath it? I've never tested it, but I have my doubts... Bottom line for me is I know which induction I like best... MIKUNIS!

Am I reading this right? The piston is all the way back in the clutch master, you have play between the rod and the master, and on the slave the piston is ALL THE WAY extended? If so, I'd say you have the wrong pin for the slave or the wrong slave. The pin needs to be long enough so that the slave is able to get some throw. If the pin is too short than the slave cylinder won't have enough throw to push the fork. BUT- if you read it another way, it sounds like the difference between a manual adjusting slave and an auto adjuster. The manually adjusting slave has a long threaded pin and a return spring on the slave. You set the gap between the pedal movement and when the throwout bearing touches the pp. In the auto adjusting slave, it's more like a caliper piston (as I understand it). You push on the clutch, and it pushes the pin into the fork. When you let off the clutch, the fork pushes the pin back, and it might get a little more pull back from the seals in the cylinder itself, but the pin is always extended so that it touches the fork. One thing I've seen people do on both brake and clutch master cylinder bleeds is jam the pedal down really hard. This causes thousands of little tiny bubbles to get injected into the reservoir, and the more you bench bleed like this, the finer the bubbles that go into the system. If you started your bleeding adventure this way, I'd say you just let it alone for a day or two. The clutch system should be "open" so that without the clutch being depressed the port to the reservoir is open. So if you leave it alone eventually most of the air bubbles in the system will float to the top and into the reservoir, and the system should basically bleed itself to some extent.