JMortensen

http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=30930 It's in there (the drivetrain forum). I don't mean to come off like a jerk, but since the search function isn't working for about a week, you just gotta dig through the forums a little. Sorry if I offended, but it's obvious from your 1st post that you are going to have a LOT of questions. Nothing wrong with that at all, just trying to help you get them answered. Jon

Read through the forums before you post any more questions. I answered this in your other post. Jon

Normally the response to both of your posts would be "Use the search function" but it is not working until they switch the whole site to the new format. Tim240z has just posted some stuff on diffs. Search the drivetrain forum. He used an R230 (230mm ring gear) which is a 9" ring gear. As to your previous front suspension question, you can get bigger brakes, better strut inserts, coilover spring kits for adjusting height, camber plates, custom control arms, and custom TC rods, but they usually aren't sold as a kit. Closest I've seen is http://www.arizonazcar.com, and their stuff is pretty pricey. Search the suspension forum for more stuff on that. Just dig a little, you should find lots of info. Jon

You could go camping at Lime Kiln. Just try and get a reservation now, because they are usually booked. Also, if you want to spend a couple hundred bucks, there is NOTHING better on the planet IMO than a weekend at Sycamore Mineral Springs in Avila Beach. It's so romantic you'll never leave the room, if you know what I mean. I used to go there every Valentine's Day with my wife, some wine, cheese and chocolate. Good times. 8) If you want to go snowboarding in March, you'll probably need some pretty good elevation like Tahoe. Jon

There is a manual adjust slave cylinder, and a self adjusting slave. IIRC, the self adjusting slave and manual slave are the same thing internally, the only difference is the manual slave has a spring between the slave and the throwout fork to return the slave, and the pin with the adjuster nuts that sticks out of the slave. Also, the fork has a hole drilled in it to allow the pin to stick thru the end of the fork, so that the part that you adjust is the part that pushes on the fork, not the end of the pin. It's been a while, but I am pretty confident the above stuff is correct. So a manual slave and fork may allow you more adjustment, not sure if you could get the correct adjustment if you changed the collar or not. You'd have to find someone running all the same components as you've got, who has it working properly. Jon

You guys would LOVE a book I read a few years back. Liberal Racism. Can't remember the author, but it was a good read. BTW the author was a democrat and didn't think that conservatives had it right either. Jon

The air hammer works really really well. Very easy job with the right tool. Using a slide hammer is tough, and using a hammer on the back side can mushroom the end of the stub axle. Jon

I gotta get off of this forum... it makes me want a V8!!! Good looking car, and I envy your hp. I would ditch the bumpers. Jon

I am 99% sure the CV shafts have the side flanges built in. It should be obvious when you pull them from the ZXT. Jon

RossC has an adapter for those CV's I think if you have the $$$ for them. If you don't run the CV's you'll need some side output flanges from a 280Z or ZX with an R200, and you'll definitely need the pinion flange or yoke from a Z or ZX with R200 to bolt up to the driveshaft. Use regular gear oil with an LSD additive, or better gear oil without the additive like SWEPCO or Redline or something like that. I use SWEPCO. Works great. Jon

I could build my car again and save at least 8-10K. I may not have a V8, but I wish I knew then what I know now... Jon

Yeah, I kept telling him it wasn't fast, and he kept doing huge burnouts trying to convince me it was... moron... It was a stock '88 I think 5.0 Convertible with a 5 speed, BTW. Jon

Have any of you guys messed with a Motec? I tried to help adjust one about 5 years ago, and hopefully they've gotten more user friendly, but back then they SUCKED! We had a guy who was a race mechanic, then went into IT, and HE couldn't get it right. I was watching what they were doing, but I could barely understand what parameters they were messing with at the time. I ended up being no help at all. I like the idea of SDS for those of us who are technically inept, Motec is fine if you're an EE or IT major with a minor in racing EDIT--Now I think I remember it being something other than Motec. It was used in F1, maybe a Zytech??? It's definitely not a home equity loan though... Jon

OMFG!!! Sounds like an F1 car! Wonder what kind of tranny can handle those shifts!!! Jon

I'm sure it was just a street racing accident. F'ers. This guy I used to work with didn't show up for work one day, turns out at the end of the long wide boulevard we were on he had smacked the center divider in his Mustang, while racing a SE-R Sentra. Most people just don't know how to drive and they don't think street racing, especially on a blvd that is wide and straight and has a center divider is dangerous. Well it is. Some pickup had dropped a 2x4 into the road, and the Sentra swerved to miss it at 100+, got a little sideways, and took out himself and the Stang. There is always some rationalization as to why it is safe in this particular instance, but people are just fooling themselves. Luckily no one was seriously injured like in this case, but these are all just reinforcements of my "take it to the track" motto. Not that racing at the track isn't dangerous... Jon

Also, if you pause the vid right after I catch the slide you can see my 2 black streaks from flooring it during the slide. 8) Jon

Apparently you didn't hear the engine revving! I floored it asap, but the Mikunis pump nozzles that were way too small at that time, so it didn't do much for a second or two. The extra pressure in the rears really made the tail happy aspect worse, the car normally doesn't act like that. It makes for good video though!!! I'd like to see what your car can do. I would venture a guess to say that you are probably a bit faster than me, I still had a full interior, insert several other excuses here... Jon

YEP. Thanks! Jon

The only duct setup that I've seen that stays on for street use is what I've got, which isn't very efficient. I ran the duct into the front of the wheel well, then way up high on the fenderwell, then back down next to the strut and out to the strut housing. When you turn the wheel the tire goes in between the sections of ducting in my setup. The problem with a good full race setup is the front tire will knock the ducts off if you have them going straight back on the frame rail like John and Mike said or if you stuck them underneath the frame rail anything like a speed bump or a driveway would probably knock them off, but if you set them up like I did then the air probably loses a lot of velocity by the time it gets to the brakes. I suppose you could limit the steering so that you didn't knock the ducts off, but then you have a 100 ft turning radius. BTW--My brake problems did seem to lessen very slightly after I got the ducts on, so I do think it is doing SOMETHING, just not enough in my personal case. Jon

Glad to help. Jon

Thanks David. Moridin, here's the link to the non music version, feel free to rip it up and use whatever you want out of it. http://hybridz.jimzdat.com/pics/jmortensenautocross.wmv Jon

It looks like the car would have 7" of ground clearance with coilovers with those gigantic wheels. I've seen late 80's Honda Accords with the same thing. 18" wheels, no suspension travel, and really high off the ground. Jon

If you had the VLSD carrier you could measure them out to make sure they are the same. You'd need to measure the diameter, the step, the journals, and the pilot I think. The ABS comment makes me think that it has a "tone ring" (toothed gear looking thing) on the carrier. Most of the time these are pressed onto the carrier near the ring gear, and can be pressed right off. Sometimes the tone ring is actually part of the carrier, but usually the step dimension is the same for an ABS or non ABS carrier, so unless the ring hits the inside of the case, it shouldn't matter. If it did hit you could probably grind a little off the case for clearance. I can't really think of any other problems, other than the spline count on the side gears, or maybe a different circlip holding the axles in the side gears... Diameter = diameter of the carrier where the 4 spiders are Step = If you set it down on end the distance from the table to the surface where the ring gear sits. Journals = where the bearings go on Pilot = The area where the ring gear gets pressed onto the carrier. I would imagine they are the same, but it sure would be nice if someone had the measurements so that you didn't have to disassemble 2 diffs to find out. 4 pinion diffs are stronger than 2 pinion, so the fact that it is a 4 pinion open carrier is only partially bad. EDIT--Reading again looks like maybe the tone ring is on the pinion. Still probably wouldn't affect the carrier. Good luck. Jon

Yeah, I kinda realized that after I put them up on Jim's server. I guess it serves the function of not taking up too much bandwidth on Jim's server. I was just pretty excited to get them up, so I went about it as quickly as possible. Thanks again for offering to do it in the 1st place, Nic Jon

WOW That's a special kind of stupid! Jon