JMortensen

Interesting battery mount. I like the idea of having it down so low and building off of the cell frame. NICE! Jon

I just looked in my Coleman catalog, it appears the only male parts they have are rifle drilled bolts. Probably overkill, but I suppose they would work. Still, LH bolts should not be too hard to find locally or special order locally. I'm sure McMaster Carr would have them, if no place else did, or maybe Fastenall (sp?) if you wanted to order on the internet. Jon

Yeah, for a turbo it would be GREAT. Puts you down in the rpms when you shift gears so that the turbo spools up. For a high strung NA it would probably drop you right out of the narrow powerband. Jon

I thought the gearing sucked on the KA24 tranny. I guess it depends on what you're looking for out of the gearing, but isn't it like 3.5:1 1st gear? Pretty much same ratios as the Nissan T5, right? Not exactly close ratio but maybe not so bad for a street car or a drag racer. Hiten seemed to indicate that he wanted a closer gearset, like a 2.9:1 1st. Or am I putting words in your mouth Hiten? Jon

Does road course and autox count? If so, add: 911T 911 944T 240Z Vette Mustang 510 3000 GT Eclipse GST and GSX RX7 And I have had my @ss handed to me by: VW Bug 510 Eclipse GSX 914-6 911T 944T 240Z Lotus Europa RX7 Jon

Jeromio, I was thinking a rh and a lh bolt in a sqaure tube which will be the transverse link, then a "doubley threaded" tube in the center for the turnbuckle. You'll have to get a bolt on the right and left side of the gap, or get rod ends on the right and left sides, with a female center section. Coleman should have what you need. Jon

I believe the fittings are 10 x 1 mm, and I think the guys were telling you to get metric fittings so that they would attach to your calipers and brake lines, not to get metric hard lines. I've got mine set up with SAE size tubes and metric fittings, so I know it works. Jon

No one that I've known with an aluminum radiator has bolted it on with a flange. Seems like a REALLY bad idea to me, especially since my Z tore up a brass radiator, and I'm thinking it was from flexing the rad support. The people I know who have installed alum radiators made a couple of mounts about 6 inches wide that sat under the bottom corners of the radiator. The mounts were intentionally made big, so that they could use foam weatherstrip tape to line the mounts. They then used mounts that clamped down on the top of the radiator, also with foam weatherstrip. I know AZC's alum radiator bolts in, and I guess the MSA does too, but it never looked like a good idea to me. Jon

An 80 or newer will have reverse lockout, so you can stick a shifter in it and check for that. You could also mark the input shaft and the output shaft, turn the input and see if you can see a difference on the output. Might not be a big enough difference to see easily, but it is worth a shot. Jon

I feel like I'm responding to every post you put up. Just trying to help. Anyway, the 280Z and 280ZX NA will bolt right up. No halfshaft issues, no driveshaft issues. You'll need a mustache bar from a 280Z with R200. I think the R180 and R200 mounts are different, but I can't say 100% on that. If you get the 300ZXT diff, then you need the rear cover, side shafts, and yoke from a 280Z or ZX R200. If you get a 280ZXT then you just need the side shafts, or one of Ross's kits to convert to the CV's, or follow Pete Paraska's instructions on his website http://home.comcast.net/~pparaska/240ZCVHalfshaftConversion.htm if you're ok using the stock 25 spline 240 stub axles. Jon PS I think we've pretty much built the same car. PM me if you want to talk about that more, but aside from some minor differences we seem to be on the same page...

Mine works with the early booster. Maybe you didn't make the rod long enough??? Jon

Carb cleaner? Jon

Are you thinking of Dzus fasteners? Try racing outlets like Coleman or Racer Parts Wholesale, or Pegasus. Jon

The light is somewhat useful since it will basically be an idiot light to tell you if something goes wrong with the charging system. The light I got doesn't pull enough juice to excite the alternator, but a blip on the gas does. I wired mine inside the car and drilled a hole in the ashtray for it. I also had to use a diode like Moby since I had run-on problems when I first started out. Jon

If Clinton had gone into Iraq in '94 instead of sending in a couple of cruise missiles, no one would have any gripes about this whole thing. I think the WMD pretense for this is BS, and we had justification regardless of WMD's. Hindsight being 20/20, we probably should have taken him out in '91, but NO ONE wanted to do that back then. Funny to listen to Gore a few years back blaming Bush Sr, then look back a couple more years to his "We should not take out Saddam" stance from '91. I don't think Iraq has to be justified as part of the "war on terror". I think there was ample justification since Saddam didn't keep his end of the cease fire agreement from '91. IMO Dubya's biggest mistake was trying to justify this as part of the war on terror, and making such a big deal out of the WMD's. But that is just my interpretation. And calling Iraq a quagmire or comparing it to Vietnam is laughable. McNamara would have killed (maybe I should say would have killed MORE) for the type of gains we've made in Iraq in the timeframe that we have made them. I'm not happy that we are there either, but I think the opposition is on shaky ground with a lot of the rote arguments... As to why we supported Saddam or Usama in the past, people again look at the situation from the present viewpoint. At the time, Iran was a much bigger threat to us being a fundamentalist dictatorship than secular Iraq, so we supported Iraq. Same with Usama. It wasn't that we liked him, it was that we were fighting the cold war against Russia. The Northern Alliance guys aren't going to win any popularity contests here either, but they were the group best suited to fighting the Taliban. The US does this all the time. We have a choice of being isolationists which sucks, or getting into everyone's business which sucks. I can't tell whether we're making the right decisions or the wrong decisions in all of these cases, but it's more complicated than I think some of you are making it out to be. My $.02 political sense... Jon

How about rolling the fenders instead of replacing the tires? Jon

400 ps is 394.52 hp.

I think that post was by Terry (BlueOvalZ). I have stock not rolled fenders and 8" rims. I can stuff my 250 wide slicks on those tires and they still clear the struts and the fenders. You are right that I do have just a gnat's butt of clearance on the inside. I think my backspace is 5.25", because when I got my rims I realized that they were just a hair too offset to the inside, so I have to run a 1/4" spacer. I am not the best with this stuff, but I think you can fit a 10" rim with 4.5" or 4" BS and it will clear a ZG flare. ON3GO would probably have some good thoughts on this, and I know Terry is pretty knowledgeable in this area too, and Tim240z. Let me know what happens with this, if you don't mind. I've been considering the ZG's for a long time, and I know my tires would perform better on a 9.5" rim. Jon

Thanks guys. That's the info I was looking for DAW. Now I can look a little more intelligently. Jon

Nice numbers John!

You should have a little free play between the two. I think I set mine at about 1/8" free play. Also when I did mine a buddy and I made a new pushrod out of a bolt, because the stock rod was too short. We cut the bolt to the right length and ground the head off and made it smooth and round, and stuck a little grease in there so that it didn't wear the cup out. Jon

I assume by 10mm you mean 10mm fitting or nut. If that's the case, you can buy SAE size tube with a 10mm fitting on it, but I think you'd be OK with just using the closest SAE flare fitting, which I thought was 1/8", but it's been a while. If you haven't done double flared brake lines before the key is to chamfer the end of the tube before flaring it. I used a big drill bit. I think it was a 3/8" bit. Just stick it in the end of the tube and spin it with your fingers until it chamfers the end of the tube. Without the chamfer you'll never get a good flare, and it took me a while to figure that one out (no one there to show me). Jon

The speedo cable is wound the "wrong" way, so that if you have a leak at the tranny end, it will pull the oil out of the tranny right up the cable and dump it on your foot. I bought the seals and resealed mine about 5 years ago, and never had a problem since. Jon

I know this thing has a certain bling factor, and I know that 13000 rpm is ridiculous, but this would allow you to mill a head and not bother with shimming the cam towers and changing lash pads, assuming you had an adj cam gear. Plus should eliminate worn chain guides and tensioners, tensioner popping out on accident (I know there are other fixes for that) and should be quieter, more reliable (not really an issue, but looks more reliable) and would possibly eliminate some chain wear over time by controlling it better. EDIT-Did I mention more accurate timing? Or am I wrong? Jon

That tensioner setup is AWESOME!!! $383 according to a yen/dollar conversion calc. Has anyone seen a similar part in the US? Jon