JMortensen

Oh, that's a little different. I can't wait for the switch so the search works again. And thanks for the warning. Jon

If you're referring to the lack of customer service, I would imagine that a camshaft is a pretty safe bet. Just don't expect TEP to set it up for you over the phone. I think that is the cam I've been looking for all these years (specs look good). Gotta file this away and start saving... Jon

Majik, watch it again and take a look how some of the cars flip 5 times and have no real damage to the roof, then build your cage accordingly. Jon

Some really crazy crashes. Gotta be some deaths in here. Also, the world's crappiest house music is in the background, so mute it if you hate listening to the chipmunks on helium like I do. http://www.grandmasterspianos.com/rallymasters.wmv Jon

I bet the weight is pretty close to the vented 4x4 setup he took off. Those calipers are surprisingly light, and it is an aluminum hat setup. I probably wouldn't go that big either, but I don't think the weight penalty is that bad in comparison to what he had before. It could even be lighter. Jon

The early 70 and 71 boosters were a smaller size booster. I think in 72 they went to a larger diameter booster and I think the 2+2's had an even larger booster IIRC. I'm not sure if there is a clearance issue with a bigger booster in an earlier car, but I seem to remember my ex-roommate swapping with no problems. If you have a balance tube on your manifold then you'll be drawing vacuum from all cylinders. Sure a vacuum port in each runner would probably be more equal, but a balance tube does a reasonable job of pulling from all 6. I assume that you have a ZX master to go with your brake upgrade. That would increase your pedal effort quite a bit. The leverage ratio built into the pedal is for the smaller stock master. I have to hit my brake pedal hard, and yeah, it does get tiring after a 30 min track session. I would suggest that you get a bigger vacuum booster if you have the small one like I do, and see how that affects pedal effort. If you run into problems getting enough vacuum to the larger booster, then run the reservoir or the pump or both. I would think not enough vacuum would show up as a soft pedal that gets harder and harder the more times you step on it, with the engine running of course. You can try that with the engine off to see what I mean though. You'll probably get 3 or 4 pumps then it will be hard as a rock, and that's what it will feel like if the master isn't helping when the car is running. Jon

I've seen them on Z's owned by people who have said that they were necessary. I don't run one on my Z and my booster works the same as when I had a smaller cam and SU's, so I don't need one. I've got a .490/280 cam in my Z. I have the small booster, so that may make a difference. To me this is one of those things people buy because they are told they need it, and lots of times they don't. Kinda like oil coolers. There may be a need for one in my Z at some stage, but I'm not there yet... Jon

I think he's talking about a vacuum pump to give vacuum to the booster. I've seen 'em, but I don't know where to get one. Do you need it? Jon

You trying to score extra credit or what? Couldn't you have made some remark about his wife or told him his kids were ugly? Jon

Just out of curiosity, what was the teacher telling you to do with the motor?

Before you throw the thing away you might want to just pull the rear cover and eyeball the ring gear size with a ruler. Who knows what happened to a rear end that's been gone thru. There's no reason someone couldn't have swapped an 8.8 in there previously, and I don't recall a spool being available for a 7.5. I don't even recall a minispool available for a 7.5. I'd check and make sure its crap before you throw it away. Probably is, but it would only take 5 minutes to be sure. Jon

There is a step on the flywheel. The step means that the clutch mating surface is slightly different from the pressure plate surface. I'm not sure what the spec is supposed to be, but as long as yours is within spec you could reuse it. I would use a die grinder with a sanding disc to put a light crosshatch pattern on the mating surface to break the glaze if there is any. Jon

I'm going to try and make some autox's at Bremerton this summer. I'd be happy to take you for a ride. Got some serious work to do in the meantime, not sure how much and when it's all going to get done... Jon

Pick up a German sports car mag. Last time I checked which was about 5 years ago it was about $4500 for a conversion for a 911. Spendy, but he'll never have fade again!!! Jon

Looked again, those pad retainer clips are DEFINITELY Porsche. That's one hell of a system!!! Jon

Porsche Big Red Brakes??? That's not a joke. That's what they call them. Jon

If it has t-tops you've got 3:90's and an R200. That's what my '80 donor had. Jon

Pretty clean vid for the size. Good job. Jon

Starting to think that when I do my Jermio/BlueOvalZ/jmortensen rear link I should change my rear gear ratio. I want to go to at least a 4:11, possibly a 4:38. I just figure this is the time to do it since I'll have the whole back end of the car apart. I've got the 300ZX LSD, which has 12mm ring gear bolts (17mm head). Anyone know where I can get a low ratio diff with a matching ring gear. RossC says SOME '87 200SXT's had the larger bolts. The other option is to use a sleeve on the ring gear bolts. Ross says this is possible for him to do, but he would need a bunch of people to go to the trouble, and I think I might be able to make spacers or have them machined locally. Best option would be to find the right diff, and not have to mess with spacers. Not in a big hurry, just curious if anyone knows of a potential donor. I really don't want to buy gears from Nissan and go through the setup if I don't have to, but I have access to all the tools and the know how if I need to go that route. Jon

Right now I have Autometer tach, speedo, water temp (mech), oil pressure (mech), and a stock ammeter/gas in the last hole. I just have the cheapy Autometer stuff. Sport Comp, I think it is. But its 100% improvement over stock. You can see them in my autox vid recently posted in the Announcements forum... Jon

I think ZX's all had the gear reduction starters. Supposedly not as reliable as the regular starters. You might try taking the starter you have apart and cleaning the brushes and the stator (is that what it's called? the big thing with all the wires). I've taken a few apart and just cleaned them regreased the bushings and reinstalled and they've worked quite a bit better. Jon

I had an L6 valve cover gasket that was the same way. About 2 inches too long in my case. It was just made wrong. Took it back, got one that fit. I have no exp with the LT1, but that sounds like a defective part to me. Jon

Usually you check for HC's in the antifreeze. If the shop you're dealing with has a smog machine or a "sniffer" for finding AC leaks, they can check the coolant for HC with either of those. Sounds like what you said: blown headgasket, cracked head, or cracked block. Headgasket would obviously be the most likely. Did you retorque the head bolts? Sounds like it's going to have to be pulled apart again. Maybe someone with a little more experience with those motors will chime in too. Jon

Well, someone had to tell him. At least you weren't being a jerk, just stating that something smelled pooish... Maybe he'll shower before work tomorrow, or get rid of the patchouli (sp?). Jon

Why did you flare the car? If you did it for looks, and you can find the right offset, then yeah, go with the 7.5" rims assuming you can find the right offset (probably won't, or it'll be custom). I'd rather see some 9" or 10" rims on a flared car myself. Jon