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JMortensen

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Everything posted by JMortensen

  1. That's why I love the game Kid-Vid. I had been to Laguna Seca watching the races, but after playing GT2 and GT3, when a race comes on Speedvision, I know exactly where they are on the track. Same thing with F1 at Monaco. My main beef is with the lack of tracks. I'd like to see a track list for the new one. I wish you could do a whole rally too, instead of looping around a small portion of one of the stages. That'd be a lot of programming... Still, its one helluva game, and the new one looks WAY better. Jon
  2. PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE TELL ME THAT WAS A SPELLING ERROR!!! I'd hate to think otherwise... Haven't seen a real life bigot in quite a long time. Jon
  3. I got this from the zhome.com list. Gran Turismo III is the only game I play now. I have to say that after seeing this video and the car list, I can't wait for GT4. Note the Z's on the car list and in the video, also the Suzuki Hyabusa formula car... http://www.gtplanet.net/forum/t-24370.html http://www.playstation.jp/ch/asx_tgs/pv_gt4.asx Jon
  4. Someone changed the rear wheel bearings and used the other nuts??? Do the ZXT's have the flat on the axle, or no??? Jon
  5. If you need to remove a peened nut again cut the flattened part off the nut with a cutoff wheel. If you don't you end up with the buggered threads. If you cut it off nicely no thread damage is done. The junkyard obviously just put an impact on it and hit it. The threads that were damaged were from the peened area at the end of the nut and further away from where the nut actually screws on. Sometimes you can fix with a thread file and reuse because the nut isn't actually tightening on the damaged part of the threads, but it's a big PITA, and if yours are the same spline then you'd save yourself some hassle to take the nuts off the right way and use them. PParaska has a detail of the stub axle differences on his website: http://home.comcast.net/~pparaska/240ZCVHalfshaftConversion.htm and http:// http://home.comcast.net/~pparaska/280ZCVHalfshaftConversion.htm Jon
  6. Slot mags don't have a 0 offset, I recall that my 195/60/14's rubbed on slot mags. With a 0 offset you can safely fit a 225 under a stock fender, you may have to roll the fender for clearance, but I don't think so. Lots of guys put 225's on a 7" rim, personally I wouldn't go more than 215. I would go 8" rim for a 225 or 235. Putting a 275 on a 7" rim would be ridiculous. That tire should go on a 10 or 11" rim, which would require flares and 2.5" ID coilovers. The "benefit" of progressive springs is that you don't feel small bumps in the road, but when you push it there is a stiffer spring rate to deal with body roll, bottoming, etc. The bad part is that you always have 2" of mushy spring to get through before you get to the "real" spring rate. We just had a pretty long post about a Tokico spring set which had progressives in front and linear rate springs in back, and nobody thought that was a good setup. The general consensus was that progressives in general were a bad idea. Do a search in the suspension forum. Modern Motorsports makes a wheel adapter that allows you to use most of the aftermarket Honda wheels available. That would probably be your best bet. Keep in mind that going to huge wheels will make your car slower due to the increased rotating mass, and having really low profile tires means that you can very easily damage them on curbs and potholes, and they won't have as much traction if straight line is your thing. I traded a set of 15's to a friend, she gave me her 14" ZX 6 spokes. Her wheels weighed 14lbs each, mine weighed 25 or more each. First thing she says is "Now my car feels really slow. It doesn't stop good either." She likes the look though. Jon
  7. FWIW- I bought my Mikunis from a guy with a D50 Mitsubishi that ran 11's (383, nitrous). He ran the 4 cyl rear end until he broke the ring and pinion. He marked the axles at both ends, and after running it for a few years and breaking the R&P, he checked the axles. They had twisted less than 1/4". Jon
  8. Ricer to me is a state of mind, its not whether you drive a Honda or a Z or a Vette. It has little to do with the car, the car is simply one piece of the ricer persona. The car - regardless of type - has to have both stereo and exhaust be as loud as possible, so that you will be noticed. You want to piss people off because it is so loud, but then get in their face if they say anything about it. In ricer terms this is called "gettin' respect." The car is supposed to be fast, but in actuality it doesn't have to be because you are too cool to race anyhow. In addition to the car, you need a bimbo girlfriend (preferably with fake boobs) and a wild hairdo (preferably 4-5 inch spikey type) that takes at least 1 hour of preparation every morning. The girl and the hairdo are much like the car. They have to be as "extreme" as possible. Fake boobs and huge hair are the human equivalent to a giant spoiler and painted interior trim pieces. You must walk around like you've got a chip on your shoulder at all times to get as much "respect" as you can. The end result of ricerism is to create the most anime-like existence possible. If being an enthusiast is as easy as installing decals and different color turn signal lenses and mufflers that were ONLY designed to be obnoxious on your car, then they are enthusiasts. That doesn't make any of them any less a ricer, or any less an a-hole. Jon
  9. I think I paid $399, but I bought it from Arizona Z Car. I would buy it from Malvern, I think they are a little cheaper and they include the cap screws and a comp oil pan gasket. I wish I knew that when I ordered. One more thing. That oil pan is HEAVY. I never weighed it but its gotta be 10-15 lbs. Thick cast aluminum. They say it adds rigidity to the block though, and a stock one doesn't because the sheetmetal flexes under load. Jon
  10. A good machine shop will have a Stone gasket. Nothing but good things to say about those... Jon
  11. I'd do trap doors, crank scraper and windage tray. I have the Malvern racing pan and they use really simple hinges and sheet metal for the trap doors. The doors are arranged in a diamond shape so that they don't work only front to back or side to side. Here's a link http://www.malvernracing.com/showcase.html My pan doesn't have a scraper, and when I put it on I didn't have time to make one. The windage tray seems much better than stock, but I don't think it is shown on the website. Basically it just has one hole big enough for the pickup and multiple small drain holes back to the sump around the edges. Jon
  12. How old are you 75280z? I was just like you till I hit 20 6' and 121lbs. I just couldn't break that 121, no matter what I ate (was up to about 4500 calories a day). Metabolism went from ultra hyper speed to normal, and over the course of the last 8 years I've managed to pack on 60 lbs. I like it though because people see me now even when I turn sideways Jon
  13. Actually I kinda thought Arnold was more like Jessie Ventura. Economically conservative socially liberal. I think we are beginning to see more backlash against the parties, since both have their problems. Anyone who votes for Arnold because he is a Republican is going to get a surprise I think. I heard Richard Riordan on some news show last night talking about how he and Arnold agree that health care is the "God given right" of every American! I wonder how that will be worked out with the budget deficit... Jon
  14. Well that puts a damper on things, doesn't it. Jon
  15. Doesn't the Mazda engine run around 25psi boost? That's why I think a turbo wouldn't work well. You need some rpms to get that kind of boost from a turbo. A drag only car might be able to use a turbo, but probably not a street car. I'm sure if someone wanted to try it you could get the cam profile from a Millenia and make a pretty good guess on the cam. I like Drax's idea of a DOHC motor though, because you could tweak the cam timing easier. Jon
  16. I know this is going to be unpopular, but might I suggest something other than a Fel-Pro gasket? These have a nickname in my cirle of Datsun friends - Failure Prone. Everyone I know personally that knows Datsuns runs a factory or Stone gasket. This includes a Nissan master tech and quite a few weekend warriors. Seems like on all the internet lists I've been to everyone is concerned with head gasket issues, and everyone talks about using Fel-Pro exclusively. Maybe there is a connection??? I changed the cam in one of my L engines without pulling the head, and was told that I was going to have gasket problems by people on the internet who use Fel-Pro. Never happened. That motor ran for another 40K before the front crank pulley came loose and damaged the snout of the crank, and I autoxed every month and ran as many days at the track as I could, probably 8 on that head gasket. I'm not blaming the gasket for your current failure. Obviously driving around with no coolant caused your problem. I'm just trying to help you out for the future. That's my experience, take it for what it is worth, Jon
  17. One reason I just thought of - LAG! Jon
  18. Just realized that the overlap thing won't work. You apparently want the intake open late, but not the exhaust. Jon
  19. http://abcnews.go.com/sections/tech/Geek/geek000320.html I've always been interested in the Miller cycle engine. I got a ride in a Millenia S when they first came out. Pretty spunky for a big car with a 2.3L engine. It looks like the efficiency comes from not having to compress the air/fuel from the bottom of the compression stroke??? I wonder if a large overlap cam on a high pressure turbo would do basically the same??? Never heard of that being a good combo, but maybe the cam timing needs to be just right... Jon
  20. Seems like there are a couple of people who like stiffer front springs, I think 260DET is one also. The general consensus seems to be stiffer in the rear. FWIW, I started with 250's all around and went down to 200's in front because of the unbelievable plow. I think a LOT of this has to do with the driver. To each his own! Jon
  21. That looks like the biggest, most bad @ss oil filter wrench ever!!! Jon
  22. You and ON3GO should be in soap operas or something. So much drama! Replacing the water pump was a 20 minute job the first time I ever did it with no Z experience whatsoever. I doubt you warped your head with minimal driving on the engine. Just get a good pump with a cast iron blade (Paraut sp? makes a good one) not a sheet metal blade and you'll be good to go in 1/2 hour. Jon
  23. The Honda blower moves a lot more air than the original. The key to getting a Z heater to work is to make sure the hoses going through the firewall are in good shape, make sure the heater control valve is working (you can usually take it out and clean it if not), and make sure the cables are adjusted. Adjusting the cables is a PITA, but once it's done its done, and you shouldn't have to mess with it for a long time. I've never seen a Z with a bad heater core ever. Not to say it doesn't happen, but they don't seem to be prone to leaking. Jon
  24. If you register the car as anything pre 74 then you are exempt. If you register based on the newer drivetrain then you would have to smog. The confusion comes in because it is legal to install a newer engine in an older car in CA (even a swap), but you have to smog based on the newer engine's requirements. If you don't specify the newer drivetrain, you should be OK, and I don't think that you are even technically breaking any laws since the year of the vehicle itself makes the car smog exempt, and they don't ask about the drivetrain anyhow. Jon
  25. What problem are you trying to fix? Mine works great, but I hated the fan. I installed a fan from a late 80's Civic and it blows much better. Bolts right in, just have to make 2 short wires to hook up to the stock wiring. VERY EASY. I've also gotten the same blower fan from late 80's Integra, BTW. Are you also having a problem with airflow, or were you trying to fix something else? Jon
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