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HybridZ

JMortensen

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Everything posted by JMortensen

  1. I have been driving my Z about once every 2 months or so. Not exactly a daily driver anymore, but I drove it yesterday, and it is popping out of 3rd on decel, and was already starting to pop out of 2nd earlier. There is also a grumbling noise coming from the trans with the clutch out in neutral, which seems to be getting louder as time goes by. Noise disappears when you push the clutch in. It shifts smoothly into all gears. My understanding is that this is pretty common, and the cause is worn countershaft bearings. I got this tranny from a parts ZX about 8 years ago, and I've probably put 50K on it, and I have no idea how many miles it had before that, car looked like it had 250K. I realized I was going to run into this at some point, so I bought a rebuild kit when I worked for a shop. It is an RPM SuperKit. Has anyone used this kit? Are the bearings decent? I would rather use the synchros and buy Timken bearings and National Seals if it would mean that the rebuild would last longer. Also, how hard is the rebuild? That's kind of hard to quantify, but I've only done 1 manual trans in a 4 cyl '79 Mustang, and that was 12 years ago or so, and if this has any quirky stuff that only an expert can do, I don't mind taking it to a shop. FSM has specs on the big nut on the mainshaft and weird stuff like that? I'd need to get one so I'm asking before I plunk down the $$$. Just looking for some feedback. Is my diagnosis correct? Should I attempt myself? FSM have everything I need? Thanks, Jon
  2. Isn't that the guy who is less than reputable??? Jon
  3. Yep, that's for changing outer bushings. Strut inserts and springs are EASY. Jon
  4. JMortensen

    Sad day

    Holy CRAP! That car at the bottom has so much powa he's gonna make "neck snapping torque" have some real meaning!!! That velour seat has gotta be good for picking up chicks too. Nothing better than pickin up some fine ass womens then pressing them back in the seat with 2000 hp! That's why he gots that Playboy bunny on the dash. Dis guy is a player. Jon
  5. I think a little more info is necessary. What engine? What do you mean seized? Do you mean the starter won't turn it, or you can't turn it with a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt? Have you taken the valve cover off? Any broken valves or springs? Jon
  6. Disconnect the rear brake lines and sway bar if you have one, then disconnect the 3 bolts holding the tops of the struts. You should be able to swing the control arms way down so that the struts are very easily accessible. The rears are easier than the fronts, IMO. Jon
  7. That would be even better if it would bolt up to stock hinges. There are some differences in 240/260/280 doors, so watch out for that too. I'll be watching with interest... Jon
  8. I wish I could tell you. Last time I "rolled" a chain onto an L motor (please don't flame - I had no choice) I went to a GOOD import auto parts store and they pulled out a Z chain and a Mercedes chain. The parts guy had heard of this before, so he pulled one out and it was the right one. I have no idea what motor it came off of. It does exist though. I've used it myself. Jon
  9. There is a Mercedes timing chain which fits the Z's and has a master link. You can add/subract links with a chain break also... Jon
  10. JMortensen

    Sad day

    Nobody mentioned a roll cage?!?! Just make sure you make it out of exhaust tubing, cuz that other stuff is too heavy and hard to bend. Plastic intercooler for the front too. At least 27hp in those mods. Jon
  11. shoot me an email, I'll get you in on the debate. The more (open-minded) the merrier. Jon
  12. Having a return line helps keep the fuel cooler and helps to cool your fuel pump. It is not absolutely necessary, but a good idea. Jon
  13. That's the page I was talking about! Thanks texasz. I'll bookmark that one. Jon
  14. Here's my understanding of that issue, I'd love to be corrected if I am wrong. Wilwoods work great and they have a compound that is good on the street. However, when you change brake pads you need to push the pistons back in. They have no dust seal, since they are a "race only" brake. When you push the piston back in, you push dirt across the seal, which can cause it to leak. So the trick is to remove the pistons when you need to change pads, buy new piston seals (very cheap) and clean everything and reinstall the pistons. This of course means you have to bleed the brakes every time you change the pads. Jon
  15. Someone out there has a web page that discusses using a P79 or a P90 (same chamber) and milling it for compression and using the shims to get the timing chain back to normal. I haven't been able to locate that page lately. Hopefully someone will know where it is. I think that's your best bet. The E88 came in 2 or 3 variations, sounds like you have the boat anchor version with no quench whatsoever (I've got the same head sitting in my garage). I wonder if the valves actually hit the pistons. Even if they just barely touched you would have had some driveability issues at the very least. It may be previous damage, but I seriously doubt that valves and pistons came in contact and you kept on driving the car without realizing it. Are you sure that those aren't flycut pistons? Jon
  16. I should mention I've got a 100/100 paint job.... Jon
  17. Sounds like Alex has a 20/20 paint job . Looks good from 20 feet away from 20 mph. Jon
  18. I just checked my installation manual for my 6AL. It makes no mention of retarding timing at all. Jon
  19. I've got the 6 spoke ZX wheels and Toy calipers. Works fine on my 70. Jon
  20. Pallnet, I find that with my camber plates it is damn near impossible to adjust with the car on a rack. Very easy to adjust with the weight of the vehicle on the ground. I thought it was interesting that you have a different experience. FWIW, Jon
  21. My 80 year old next door neighbor and I just had a conversation about the 240 and how she and her friend used to ride around town in a brand new 1970 240Z thinking how cool they were in it. She also asked why I was pulling to the front of the house to start it. She said she LOVES THE SOUND OF MY CAR!!! Jon
  22. UGH! I almost shot coffee out my nose when I saw that. Jon
  23. Pete, Aux and I and JDKGabe are discussing offline. If anyone else wants to join shoot one of us a PM Funny posters though. I'd hang those on my wall! Jon
  24. Juan, you might also want to look at PBR rear calipers off of a Camaro or Firebird. They are aluminum and very light weight, and I think the caliper has the ebrake mechanism, not a drum in hat design. I think the SS versions came with these. They fit on a vented disc, and they should have more pad surface area than a 240SX caliper. Jon
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