JMortensen

I guess I'm not seeing why just cutting the far side panel out wouldn't allow the low pressure to better affect the area above the new rad duct.

I think you would need to cut into those side panels quite a bit. Maybe do like I did for my dash. Take a piece of AL fuel line, crimp the ends and bolt it in like a strut at the top and then cut the sides out mostly or entirely. The duct looks just like the one in the magazine though. I hope its worth as much downforce as they said it was for the NASCAR...

I used a 66% or so faster power steering Woodward rack. Not cheap, but probably more cost efficient than doing an electric upgrade and a quickener, and the rack is a lot stronger, road feedback is supposed to be better, effort is adjustable after the fact, etc. Requires a good bit of fabrication on the crossmember and some avoidance or replacement of the stock motor mount tower on the drivers side. Cobramatt has the same rack I do, and tube80z has a more typical circle track version of it as well. Here is my thread on it: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/97073-woodward-power-steering-project/

Seems to be some backbiting going on in this thread between a few people. Please don't involve me. I'm just trying to get info. FWIW, we know there is low pressure on the fender behind the tire because of the turbulence shown by the yarn tufts in the tunnel, so if there isn't a lot of low pressure in the wheelwell, that indicates to me that we need a better path for the air to get out. That makes sense, just makes for twice as many tests. If you want to see if air will exit out the fenderwells from the engine compartment, testing the pressure of the outside of the wheel well vs cabin pressure doesn't tell you anything useful in and of itself. If you test the inside and the outside vs the cabin, then you can compare the inside and outside wheelwells against each other after running 2 tests, but you could have just tested the inside and the outside against each other directly and gotten the result with one. Maybe I'm somehow making it easier than it actually is.

If you set the cooler in front of the rad, you'll kill the airflow through the rad behind the cooler. If you have them sealed, then air will go through both. If you duct them out to the front, then air can't bypass and go around them and through the radiator only. I seem to recall preith did a nice job on his oil cooler and posted pictures. Oil should be at least as hot as the water, which probably explains why you are seeing the oil coolers behind the rad.

What did you find on the wheel wells? EDIT-- Clarification, you measured the pressure in the wheel wells compared to the cabin? I think what makes more sense is to measure the engine compartment side of the wheel well to the fender side of the wheel well. Thanks Cameron for the pics, nice work. Did you see that circle track mag article? Looks like you might be able to improve your rad duct design.

Very nice Cameron. I poked around through some of your other pictures, wasn't really getting what is going on with the vent on the LH side of the grill area. Also didn't see how you have the rad ducted. Do you have more pics of those things?

I screwed up my shaft and ordered another from ebay. Got my new one really quickly, but it felt like the bearings had sand in them. For anyone else getting into this, after you get the upper steering shaft out, the inner shaft is a bit of a press fit in the housing. Once you get it out, it is possible to remove the outer bearing nearest the steering wheel with a slide hammer and disassemble, clean, and grease it up. The ball bearings don't come loose until after it comes out of the housing and you remove a snap ring. I was concerned that after I removed the shaft the bearing would fall apart. It doesn't. The same type of bearing is used in the bottom of the upper shaft, but it felt smooth so I packed a bit of grease in from the bottom and called it a day on that one, but it looks like the same disassembly/reassembly procedure would work. All done now, Joe's Racing QR installed on the shaft. Not a direct fit but I had the stuff to make it all work and I got to keep my steering wheel, which isn't great but didn't need replacing. If I had it to do over, I would convert to 3/4" tubing and do all race stuff, but this worked out despite my screw ups and saved me trying to figure out how to go through the firewall and seal everything up.

It should be possible to calculate roughly how many inches are at what pressure and do a rough estimate of how much pressure differential there is, how much lift is being caused with no vents. After vents are added the same test could be done and you could get a similar estimate of reduced lift/downforce. Google "inches water psi" and you get this: 1 inch of water = 0.0361396333 pounds per square inch

Drill them out.

Alright, I see it now. Step 1 (doh!). I guess I skipped that one... Looks like it will be easiest to pull the thing. Not a big deal, was just trying to figure it out without having to do that.

No problem. I think my issues were getting confused by the LS2 alternator thing, and I was looking at a lot of these threads before I planned on power steering. Now that I have ps, it actually got a lot easier.

I did see a pretty small hole in the side of the housing. Do you recall how to disconnect the spring to remove the shaft?

Never done this before, but need to get the upper part of the shaft out if possible to weld on an adapter for quick release for steering wheel. Looked in the FSM and it basically says take the snap ring off and then pull the shaft out. I took the snap ring off and the shaft sucked in, I see in the diagrams there is a spring in there, it appears that it is actively pulling the shaft down. Hoping to do this without having to pull all the steering linkage off again. Tips?

Really? I thought I had to move the alternator or something. Well if that's the case it should be pretty easy to round up the parts and get it done. The tensioner is supposedly necessary for cars that autox and road race, so I'll go ahead with that part of it.

On that relocating kit, thinking the height of the pump may be a problem with the remote reservoir, as the pump would be higher than the reservoir. So that would mean a straight LS1 conversion, if that works.

I've looked at a bunch of threads and I'm starting to get baffled with BS. Just want to get my L33 put together with LS1 accessories. I have the Camaro pulley installed and water pump as well. I do not have the brackets for alternator or ps, and I have yet to buy the pump and alternator as well. I know I'll do a KRC pump. I have my old Maxima 60amp alternator and I'm tempted to use it, but I'd need a serpentine pulley and I'd have to make a bracket, and at this point I don't want to add more fabrication to the thing, I'd rather just buy parts and assemble. So what I need to know is what the best way to get this stuff in the car would be. I am thinking that I can just buy all the brackets and an alternator off of ebay and bolt it all on, but I've seen other solutions like this high mount ps/alternator bracket and it appears that this one piece would solve the problem: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-LS1-High-Mount-P-S-Alternator-Mount-Bracket-Kit-F-Body-Front-/380676005851?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58a20edfdb&vxp=mtr Also I understand I need a manual tensioner to prevent throwing the belt. KRC the only option for that? Any help appreciated.

Just held in with the knurl.

I ran a 250mm slick with manual steering. It's a bitch when you're stopped or moving slow, not an issue at all once you get moving.

Worked for me.

Camaro/RX7 studs work, they have the right size knurl and are 12x1.5

There was some talk about using a manometer to test the pressure on the hood, can't remember if anyone did it. The black car has "alligator teeth" louvers which will extract more air than the flush louvers, at the cost of more drag. http://auto-racing.speedtv.com/article/le-mans-the-aerodynamic-influence-of-louvers-on-prototypes/

Yes, that click could be normal.

I'd wager the black one would do a lot better.

The stock TC rod is almost exactly the right size for running a 5/8" die down it. You could cut it and thread the last couple inches on each end and use a turnbuckle instead of shimming the caster. If you run too much you'll pinch the LCA bushing, but if you're using rubber it probably doesn't matter.