JMortensen

I also think they look very restrictive and wouldn't run them either. I've suggested before that someone could do a simpler test if you have a wideband; just see if taking them off makes a difference on the AFRs. I used an ITG filter on my triples, FWIW. For your actual numbers, you will need to actually tune the carbs to see what the actual difference is. That's a lot of screwing around. The AFRs gives an immediate answer as to whether they restrict flow or not.

The toe link needs freedom to move on both ends.

Love it. Can't wait to see the installed pictures. What thickness did you use, and what is the weight of the completed dam?

tube80z used 5/8 and AZC used 5/8. The complaint was that the rod ends wore out really fast. 3/4 just gives a better lifespan for the rod ends.

I didn't read through this really closely, but I wonder how much valve lift you lose with hydraulic lifters when doing a compression test. If the valve lift and timing is altered because the lifters aren't pumped up, I would imagine that could change your numbers considerably.

You would still have hacked up metal under these too. Especially in the rear it's going to be really hard to make this flare attach to metal with no overlap on the original fender. I suppose it's possible, but it would be a real PITA.

It's possible for the front and rear to leak to each other. If you have this situation and pump the pedal a lot you'll see the front master reservoir filling up and the rear going empty. It could also pump fluid into the booster.

Mufflers are done. Wasn't too hard, once I found the time to get out to the shop. I'm going to install them with V-band clamps, and that way I will use a turn out and if they're too loud I'll attach a supertrapp baffle to the end. I think with the angles and 40% open perf tube in there there will be enough resistance to flow that it will cut the sound down some. I hope. They're definitely not beautiful, but if they work they saved me about $700 over the Burns equivalent.

There is an old post by Clifton and I believe he said that he fit a 17x10 in a stock fender with minor rubbing on the inner fenderwell. You'll have to dig it up though.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/

My $.02: if you have too much power for the longnose R200, go buy a Ford 8.8 or 9 IRS and put that in and skip all the shortnose hassle. If you do the Ford diffs you have your choice of ratios, LSDs and lockers and spools are all dirt cheap, every local gearshop can set one up, etc.

It's a rear Formula Atlantic Hoosier slick. 23.5 x 13 x 15 are the dimensions and I might try the 23.5 x 12 x 15 as both are meant for a 14" rim and I think the 12 might transition better. Yes, V8, and I have an R200 with LSD and Z31T CVs with Chequered Flag Racing 39 spline chromoly stub axles and CV adapters.

I'm going to do my own front end. I've got a good idea how it will end up, but it's complicated. I have to figure out exhaust and splitter, and then I'm going to try and make most of the fenders and the front end myself. Those pics are from the thread where I had started gluing foam to the fenders to try and shape it. I gave up on that idea. It was too hard to shape foam that thick.

IMSA. Pics here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110952-starting-on-flares-for-15x14s/?p=1038387

The Autopower used to be a legal basis for a cage, even though the main hoop didn't go all the way to the floor. Nobody checks rollbar specs, but you will find that Boss Frog and others that make bars follow them anyway, using 1.75 x .120 on Miata bars even though it's overkill.

Yep. They fit my 15x14's pretty well too. If you're picking the flares first based on appearance, you might want to consider doing it the other way around and finding the wheels that you want first. There is just not much available that fills up a 6" flare. I would think even a 315 wouldn't be wide enough, and you'd have to have some crazy offset to get it out to the edge of the flare.

Have you considered making your own column? If you used a standard 3/4" tube like many race cars do then you could just buy a steering heim joint and maybe bolt a plate to the bottom of the pedal box to get the height you want. You would also have to figure out the firewall plate, but that shouldn't be too hard. The real issue is what to do on the other side of the firewall. You could replace the U-joints. We had some made by Woodward probably 6 or 7 years ago. I still have mine, even though I switched to a Woodward rack. $40 shipped if you want it. You'd need another Woodward or similar U-joint too, they run about $50, and some 3/4" tube, and a QR. Firewall heim: http://www.derbyparts.com/Steering-Column-Firewall-Mount-p/rr91032375750.htm Column heim: http://www.derbyparts.com/Oversized-Steering-Heim-Joint-p/rr1750757.htm Woodward u-j: http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=Woodward+Steering+U+joints+&_itemId=250387924067

So you just installed the master? Reaction disk or master pushrod adjustment are my guesses if that's the case.

What size tires are you going to run?

I believe the YZ rear is a 4" flare. IMSAs are a 6".

Don't forget the Hoosier 15x10 option. Hoosier's 275/35/15 is a very popular size for autox and would be a good choice for a hillclimb car.

Pinion bearings are a common issue on the R200s. It's usually the ball bearing right inside the pinion flange. You could remove the LSD and then spin the pinion and feel for gritty feeling to test it.

You can get the 12" wilwood setups under a lot of 15" wheels. FWIW.

tube80z bought that yellow car. He has raced several Zs with 13" wide rears and 10" wide fronts, and was very fast. Talking with him convinced me to go 15x14's front and rear.

8" wide should fit no problems with coilovers. I had 8's on mine with no flares and could have gotten more under there. I didn't even have the rear fender lips rolled.