JMortensen

What specifically are you talking about? If you mean the threaded collar with a perch that you move up and down to change ride height, the 240 parts will be too small to fit a 280 strut housing. If you mean the shock, rears will be too short but you can shim it to fit. If you mean a completed suspension for a 240 that you would bolt in, you'll be dragging the ass of the car around as it will be too low in the back.

Suspension Techniques. They sell a rear mounted rear bar that attaches to the uprights behind the diff. It is the 240Z version of their rear sway bar.

Race tires are usually built as light as possible, so I wouldn't want to stress them out with an explosion like that if it's possible to avoid it.

That's a pretty common problem on cars with lots of caster or taller wheels. I think all of the airdams are likely to be a problem. My car hit the stock fenders as well. You'll probably have to trim the airdam no matter which one you go with, and maybe fenders too.

Ordered the pan this morning. They said 4" sump would not be a problem. Asked about a scraper, they said stock windage tray should be fine and they didn't see a big effect from scrapers in the LS engines. They charged an extra $25 for the shallower sump and $55 for the pickup tube, and then upsold me on the remote oil filter and hose and fittings which I needed anyway. Altogether I paid $500, plus shipping I'm guessing. They said they'd ship in about 3 days, so turnaround isn't bad either.

At that Porsche shop they used to file the points back to sharp if they weren't too badly mangled. I'd give it a shot if it were mine.

Nice work. LOL'd at the end.

Probably not a good idea for race tires...

Get a rear mounted bar from Suspension Techniques.

Good question. I ran a STB triangulated to the firewall, and then when I removed the firewall part I realized that it went to a completely unsupported part of the firewall on one side. There was a HUGE improvement running the STB, but I don't know how much of that was from the firewall braces and how much was from the strut brace. I think bjhines did a good job reinforcing the area in his car. You might look at that if you really want to get the most out of it.

Stock 300ZX axles are too long. Flipping cages gains you next to nothing. You need shorter axles. I think the Driveshaft Shop is the go to place at this point.

Allows you to fine tune the engagement height. You wouldn't use the slave as it has been sitting around for 8 years and probably isn't working (although it has low miles on it). The pin and spring can be put on any slave, and you would need the throwout fork obviously. Here is a picture: EDIT--BTW the steel forks might be on the earlier 4 speeds and 5 speeds. I know guys were double pinning them and safety wiring the pins in. I think the aluminum can wear and doesn't hold the pin in as reliably. Dennis Hale suggested running safety wire right through the roll pin and around the shaft to hold it, and that's easy enough to do.

I think they went to aluminum on the forks in the later years, and racers prefer steel. That's vague memory, so verify if you're going to act on it. I do have the conversion parts for manual adjust slave if you're interested. The slave with the adjuster, the spring, and the fork with the holes. I'll let it all go for $50 if you're interested. Even if you don't have an issue with the clutch disengaging, it's nice to be able to fine tune where it does engage.

If you have the right length axles, reversing the cage doesn't do anything for you. Lengths are correct as I recall. Don't have a set of shafts to measure. Should be in one of the group buy threads.

Will do. I've got a funds transfer from Paypal processing which will enable me to order it. Should be ordering late this week.

One option is to weld brackets to the strut towers.

Popping out of 2nd is not uncommon. One simple bandaid is to put a stiffer detent spring in on the shift rail. Mine was doing this pretty bad when I stopped driving it, and the detent spring fix was no longer working. A friend who has rebuilt a bunch of transmissions thought the issue was the mainshaft nut backing off. My plan was to either cut two nuts and double nut it or tack weld the nut to the shaft to prevent the issue.

I really want to do side pipes but I don't think I have clearance under the frame rail, and I already did a lot of surgery in that area and don't want to hack into it again. I'm going to check if it's possible after I get the motor mounted, but if not then the plan is to run a Y to a single 3" pipe and put the muffler in the right rear corner. I left just enough room next to the fuel cell, but will probably need some heat shielding.

He's talking about 944s and 928s. What's weird is that I only saw one 944 synchro replacement when I worked for a Porsche shop for a couple years and no 928s, but I saw probably 20 911 replacements (although part of that was that the 911's used the steel synchros and the 944s brass).

Still mulling Keith's idea on the fronts, so today I mounted up the IMSA rears. I'm going to put 2 more bolts in across the top of the fender, but I need to trim the flares and then glass in some pockets so that the bolts go in straight. Trimming is one of those things that makes me a bit nervous. I guess it's FG, so mistakes can be undone, but having zero experience makes it a bit nerve wracking.

The dye stuff works pretty good. Not sure if it's cheaper than magnafluxing. http://www.chem-pak.com/catalog/industrial_chemicals/welding_accessories/crackfinder1.html

Terry used to be on this forum daily. He's a great guy, super helpful and I wish I had 1/100th of his FG knowledge. He's gone over his build in detail here and I always paid close attention to his posts, so I think I've got a pretty good idea of what he would say. Have you seen his Manta? I thought the Z was cool... http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/pictures?userid={7DC317B0-8EDB-4B2E-A837-F708D07C9769}&uid={7DC317B0-8EDB-4B2E-A837-F708D07C9769}&guid={D4293D6D-7AA5-481D-B59D-ADDE7519DB8E}&custdom=1 I've thought about leaving the back of the flare open, just basically doing the leading edge and the top, but I think it will look a little weird with the stock fender trimmed back, and it definitely won't match the style of the rears. I dunno. I might look at that again, because aerodynamically it makes the most sense and it's less work. I can't do vents in the front of the flare or anything like that. Not allowed in this class. What I'd really like to do if it were allowed is a front and top flare and then have the fender under the flare bend inward and hit the inner fenderwell. It would be like a spec racer ford, or Terry's Manta. Not allowed though.

I still haven't ordered the Kevko pan, but they do make one which is 5" deep as opposed to the LS1's 5.75", and it has baffles for better oil control too. $300, and I have read in various places that they'll do a shorter sump if you ask. I'm trying to figure out how short is safe to go... http://www.kevkoracing.com/

Not big enough, and most require a G nose.

Went to Lowes, they didn't have the pink styrofoam, but they did have blue. Basically the same stuff I gather. I bought one sheet which is 24x96x2 IIRC, and took it home and started cutting it up with a jigsaw. The blade isn't long enough, but if you cut from the top you can snap off the remainder on the edge of a bench. Cost about $20. Glued the pieces together with a hot glue gun. Also picked up some polyurethane expanding foam. Haven't tried the two together yet, hoping the urethane won't melt the styrene and I can use it to blend into the body. If not I might have to use clay or something. The initial plan was to have the flare start after the headlight bucket. After looking at how wide the flare will be and the WALL of flare behind with only about 4" to shape it out to the full width, I think I might have to incorporate the headlight bucket into the flare to make a smoother transition. This in turn makes me think that I should make the whole fender in FG instead of just the flare. Having no experience with FG, I have no idea how I would do that. Seems like I would have to take the fender off the car and then lay the FG over it, but then the fender would be distorted in shape because it wouldn't be bolted top and bottom, front and rear. Wondering if it is possible to glass the front, then the top, then the side, all separately on the same piece. For right now I think I'm going to concentrate on getting the flares shaped and making sure they're the same shape left and right. Will finish this right flare first, then do the left. Figured I'd make some contoured shapes with some .25" round steel I have and check my flare shape against them.