JMortensen

I've got an adjustable slave, spring and fork off of a 70/71 for sale if you want more adjustability. In the parts for sale area.

Do you have a light flywheel? It will help quite a bit. Less inertia means it slows the motor down a lot quicker. For oils I would go Synchromesh, SWEPCO 201, or Ford synthetic MT fluid. All are expensive, and I've tried 201 and Ford and they were about the same for me, I've heard others say that Synchromesh and Ford are about the same.

The master, Michael Winslow. Cars are old and busted for this guy. He's onto guitar with pedals and all.

Thanks for all the compliments. Love that video... Wow, thanks for that. I was tweaking the ends in to try and make room for the droop limiters which ended up not working. I'll definitely pull the bar off and change that, it's just a few minutes work. It's not on jackstands, John. Realistically I think its going to be on stands for a RELATIVELY short time. All I need to do is get the drivetrain mounts done and measure up and order a driveshaft. After that I can put it back down and work on engine wiring and top side stuff. There's still a lot to do, but it's getting there. Target is autoxing this season. That means October at the latest. I just walked away from this thing for a couple years, so if I can keep myself interested and keep making progress like I have been, I see no reason why it can't get done. I've done a lot in the past couple months, the toughest thing being the ps crossmember mod. That was really the reason that I stopped working on it. I couldn't see a good way to get it done and got frustrated. Still have some money to save and then spend on parts, so hoping I can get it done by October if not sooner.

While you're up there, what happened to all the ITS cars with that autopower cage? Did they have to replace it?

Going off the mustache bar is a good idea. Lot straighter shot than what I did.

No, mine were just CV centers that could be used with the Chequered Flag Z31T CV adapter for the R200. Had nothing to do with the STi R180.

Finally off the spit. Pretty excited about it. Need to do some paint and get the drivetrain installed, but first I think I need to take a couple days and clean up the shop.

It's in there. The Appendix C thing says attach to the frame if possible, and the next part says attach to the floor for unibody. Still, for an autoxer, it won't make a difference. For a road racer, the rules are different and they don't really give as much leeway.

Move headlights to the grill?

Nobody is going to hassle you over that bar at an autox. I ran it for 8 years or so, never heard anything pro or con about it. It used to be legal for road racing, so no doubt there were a lot of ITS cars running it. Not sure if they were grandfathered in or if they had to replace the cage or what. It also doesn't connect to the strut towers. If you're going to put in a cage, it might as well stiffen the car.

You still looking? I'm on the local autox email list, and I'm sure someone on there would know.

If you want door bars that's a funky one to install them on. They used to make a cage for that Autopower bar, but the bar had little extensions that the A pillar and door bars plugged into and then a bolt held the joint together. I didn't like it much, but you could buy one at one time (maybe still can???). If you could buy the extra pieces, welding the little tubes onto the bar you have would be pretty simple.

WOW!!! Just got done putting the tires on the Bassett wheels. I think it's a function of the rolled lip on the outside, but they just about FELL onto the rims. I probably spent 1:30 with the No-Mar tool in my hand installing both tires. Amazing. If you're going to do this yourself, and you're using steel wheels, get Bassetts!

My concern is that if you put wheels on that extend past the stock fenders, you might shred the tires when you hit the first bump in the road. It could be that I'm just not looking at the pics right, but it appears you basically cut the lip off of the fender. If that's right, you didn't cut enough. Jacking the control arm up test would tell for sure. I know it's a bitch, but it would be a lot easier to fix it now than it would after paint, etc.

Well the tool showed up for my birthday, so that was cool. I went out and put two tires on the DRW's that I had here. Then the Bassett wheels showed up right after I put everything away. No matter, I needed to go get valve stems anyway. I do think the Bassetts are a nicer wheel. They have the outer lip folded and doubled over, looks like it would be stronger, bigger openings in the spokes and the spokes have more shape. All in all just looks a little nicer in quality, although I am comparing to a used DRW. Took me about 7 or 8 minutes for the first tire, then a lot longer with the second one. Probably 15 minutes of fighting with it. It's really cold here and I got sidetracked talking to a neighbor and I think the tire got cold and that was what made the second one harder to install. The first one was room temp when I tried to put it on and I think that helped. I went and got the valve stems so tomorrow I'll see if I can't wrestle the other two wheels on. Tried to video it today, camera kept turning off. Might try again tomorrow, but today's first attempts weren't pretty, so I guess I'm glad it shut off on me. The Yellow Thing is pretty handy. I think I was using it wrong at first, but now I'm using the protrusion on the end as a lever to hold the bead down in the drop center with the handle facing the center. I've always wanted to be able to change my own tires and had considered a $1000 pro tool, but I think as I get more proficient this will be just fine. Only downside so far is that the wheel is pretty high off the ground, so the tool ends up in my armpit and it should be at my waist. Might section the tool to get it lower. I could probably take 10" out of it and have it be just about right. If the rims weren't so wide it wouldn't be as big a deal.

Looks to me like you didn't cut the fenders high enough. Did you look at 240hoke's ZG thread in the FAQ section? Most of the pics are dead, but if memory serves he cut and then had to cut again. I did the same on my car. Cut the lips off, looked pretty similar to yours, then realized the tire would hit and had to cut a couple more inches out. Of course, it's more difficult to weld back together when you cut up higher too. If you want to figure it out, the easiest way is to take a spring off of a rear corner, bolt the wheel on and jack the control arm up. If the tire hits the fenderwell, you need to cut more. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/47525-how-to-mount-them-there-zg-flares/

Tool is a no show, based on the tracking scans looks like it might have been lost in transit. Damn...

The height of the tire is 23.5. It's a friggin huge tread, so it's probably like a 30 series or something, but that's not too bad because of the width. My No-Mar tool was supposed to show up today but we have usually had our deliveries by now. If it does show up with some light left outside I'll mount the tires on the rims I have and maybe video it. I'm hopeful that it's pretty easy. I think Cary said he can mount or dismount a tire in 5 min...

Mine are Diamond Racing wheels in the picture, but I just ordered a couple more for the rear from Bassett. The guys at Bassett are really helpful and they seem to think that they make a better when than DRW. The price is similar. $111 per wheel, $262 shipped to WA.

So it sounds like the burrs were the problem then. Good on you for sticking with it and getting it done right.

Good guess. The Yokohama FA rears are 350mm. The Hoosiers are available in a 12" and 13" tread width (not section width). All are recommended for 14" wide rims. There is also a bias ply modified asphalt tire from American Racer that is a 13" and uses a 14" rim. The AR tires are $150 each new, but bias ply is supposed to run higher slip angles which means that it isn't as precise as radial. I think I paid $200 or so for my set of 4 Hoosiers off of ebay including shipping. New tires would be faster, of course. New ones from Hoosier are ~$400/ea.

The stack sounds right. As to a measuring device for the clutches, I'd suggest a micrometer. It doesn't have to be super accurate, Harbor Freight would be fine on that one. http://www.harborfreight.com/0-to-1-inch-range-digital-micrometer-895.html You could mill the case, but really, I have to wonder if something else is going on. If everyone else (including you on your other diff) gets basically the same result, and on this one you get something totally different, it makes me think there is some other problem. I don't know what that problem might be off the top of my head, but seems like something is wrong there.

Building an X Prepared autox car. No tire limitation, and these are relatively cheap tires to get used. The question is whether the increased width will be more of a hindrance than the increased grip. I think it will work out, but I'll know for sure after I've actually run them. I have a pic of a wheel mounted in front with no tire or fender, and I have a pic of a car running the 14's in the back. You can bet there will be pics when I get the car on the ground. I have 2 wheels here and 2 on order, so it should be pretty soon. Tires are ready to go, decided to wait for the better mounting tool to get them installed, so will probably be a couple weeks before everything gets here and I can take the car off the rotisserie and get some shots...

The problem with the stock config is that you've only got the two clutches, one per side, driving the wheels. The ones with the outer tabs ride with the case. The reason that the clutches were made in the first place is because these diffs had a reputation for stripping the clutches at about 300whp. With your usage I think you're going to need the extra clutches to make it last. I'd suggest you take it apart and put the extra clutches back in. You can see some pics of stripped clutches here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/46653-cncd-lsd-clutches/page-2 I went and looked it up, and the stock clutch is .070" thick, and the replacements that were made in the original group buy were .063". So if people were getting about 45 lbs breakaway with 4 aftermarket clutches, that means they had .014" less total thickness than you have with the 4 stockers and 2 aftermarket clutches config that you PM'd me about. I'd just get a couple more from Gary if you need them and swap them in.