JMortensen

You should be able to find this on MM's site, but I believe that you should be using the early 300ZX rotor.

I only have experience with Porsches, but their tubes are not the driveshaft. They have a large tube with a thin shaft like an axle inside.

I always use red loctite...

Yes, at least that's the way Nissan does it.

Looks high quality, serious racer stuff.

No, I had the rack shortened, so it is a few degrees less than stock. It just looks ridiculous because of the scrub. The tire isn't pivoting near the center of the tread as it would normally do. There is a lot more rim way out there swinging around, making it look like it has a lot of steering angle.

That thought did cross my mind...

I wasn't sure what to do about this, never done any fiberglass work before, so I thought the best way to start would be to cut away a stock fender for clearance. Looks like there is about 1" clearance at the front of the fender where the headlight attaches. That spot is going to be interesting with a flare, the fender, the light, and the airdam all coming together right there...

I agree with Cameron. I have the vertical/horizontal cheapo from HF. Use it ALL THE TIME. I tried some super expensive vari-tooth bi-metal blades from www.mcmaster.com, and found that the Mexican ones that HF sells are a lot better and they're $8 vs $50 something. Only issues with are: 1. You can't cut really severe angles because the tube will pull out of the vise, and 2. You can't cut really large stuff because it hits the housing. It will do exhaust just fine though.

Thanks for trying.

You have a LS2, right Keith? So if an LS2 is 5" and hangs down 1.5" below the crossmember, than the LS1 would be 2.25" below the crossmember. That doesn't sound right. Are you using John's Cars mounts, or did you fab your own? Also if you don't mind, how far down is the bellhousing relative to the trans? Does it hang further down? One mitigating factor for me is that I'll be making a splitter and trying to get it reasonably close to the ground too, and the intent is to try and make it into a bit of a skid plate as well. That will hang down at least an inch below the bottom of the xmember.

That's a good point. We don't have E85 here, so never crossed my mind. Without getting too political, I'd say that E85 only exists because of subsidies and there are growing arguments against it, so there is really no way of knowing when the money spigot will be turned off and then your fuel becomes unavailable almost overnight.

If you're not going for massive power than 11:1 compression isn't necessary either. I wouldn't use this head unless I was planning on running race gas. We went through this maybe 5 years ago ad nauseum, Mycarispurty can look it up if he cares to. It's a good trade for a set of DGV's though, that's for sure.

Looking for some headlight covers for my dedicated race car. Will be painted so I don't care about scratches, etc. Anyone have any beat up old covers laying around?

OK, different question. I understand Kevko will do a different sump depth if you want. If you could have a pan custom built, how deep would you make it? Same as LS2 at 5"? Shallower? I think the LS1 pan is something like 5.75" deep and the LS2 is 5" deep. I'm just thinking maybe I should go 4.5 or something if that is an option. If you had a shallower sump, could you move the engine lower in your car?

New product from Flying Miata, they say they're going to make them in different bolt patterns, so we could order a set for a Z. Picks the car up so that you can get underneath to adjust height and alignment, has rollers so that you don't have roll the car around to settle it when you make adjustments. Looks pretty slick, and $395 for a pair is a lot better than the other ones that I've seen for sale. Just wanted to pass it along in case someone was looking to do their own alignments. http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=&parentid=&stocknumber=35-70050

Those are the early ZX calipers. There are actually 2 pistons in there. There is one in the traditional place that you screw in to put the pads in, then there is another one on the opposite end of that cylindrical part of the housing. The one pushes the inner pad into the rotor, the other pulls the whole flat plate thingy inwards, forcing the outer pad against the rotor. It's a funky setup and I didn't realize there were two in there either until someone told me. I used that setup with non-vented Toyota front calipers and even with no prop valve I was unable to lock the rears while driving through a puddle at a driver school. It's easier to work on than drums, but it isn't the hot ticket for rear disk conversions IME.

Just wondering if anyone has used one of these. Kinda surprised it didn't turn up in the search for this forum. I did see that 74_5.0L_Z is using one on his Ford engine. Looks like they have a 5" deep sump, baffled sheet metal pan with fittings for remote oil filter for $300. http://www.kevkoracing.com/wetsump_chevy.htm

79-81 are the big huge ones with the opposed double piston design. the 82-83 look like a normal caliper.

This thread has more current photos of my arms and toe adjuster: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/62776-yet-another-rear-control-arm-design/page-8?do=findComment&comment=1026517

Just make sure that when you install the strut the gland nut tightens up BEFORE the threads bottom out. You want that nut TIGHT with a couple threads showing. If you happen to cut too much off the spacer and the nut bottoms, just throw a big washer or two down in the bottom of the tube.

Faster shifting and grinding at very high rpm are related. The quicker the engine slows down, the less work the synchro has to do. If the grind is happening because the synchro can't slow the input shaft down quickly enough, then having the engine decelerate faster is obviously helpful. I think you'll love the flywheel BTW, and once you get used to it you'll find that you shift a lot faster even when driving calmly, just because it's smoother.

Ever tried one? Makes a big difference. Google "light flywheel faster shifting" and see how many hits you get and read through some of the threads from all different makes and models etc.

I see where you're going. If the input shaft were truly freed from the crank, the flywheel wouldn't have any effect at all. IME it does make a big difference, so I can only surmise that the input shaft speed is always influenced by the flywheel even if you have a fresh bearing or bushing in there.

I'll disagree with John on the fluid. I've had several people who were running MT-90 say they really felt a significant improvement switching to 201. And yeah, thinning it down isn't a bad idea. That's how I used to run my 280zx 5 speed. I think synchromesh is already thinner. Friction modifier in LSD terms gets rid of the stiction that causes clutch chatter. Don't know what it would do in a manual trans. You've got it though, so give it a shot. You might see an improvement.