monster626

So your saying that 900 is a good price for the unit...was there any other ecu's that i should consider for the price or should i just go ahead and buy the e6x?

I just wanted to know if anyone is using this system and what if any comments do you have about it. The reason that i'm asking is that a local shop in arlington tx will sell me the computer and wiring for 900 new. I think thats a good deal but i wanted to know what others thought about it. Thanks for you help

Make sure that you have it in wastespark and that you digital outs are being used for the other two coil packs. your trigger setup for nissan looks correct, another thing you need to look at is your distrb timing,--not to make you feel dumb but if you currently changed the distributer to the 83zxt make sure that the shaft wasn't 180 degrees off. if thats not the case turn the dist all the way to one side and then tighten it down. the next thing you need to do is set the timing lock at a set timing and find it from that point. don't change the dist position--instead manipulate the setings on the haltech. i hope this gets you started i'll keep looking at the tread for any questions. sorry about the sloppy grammer i'm in a rush

i also used the 83zxt dist with the wheel out of the 300zx. that allows you to have a home signal for any computer.

it would be smart to lower your timing to about 15* btdc as a base and up the fuel at least this will save your engine for the time being.

i just wanted to know if there is any one looking to buy a haltech for their z. the reason i ask is that i am contemplating selling mine.I have the e6k set up and ready to go......... it would come with all sensors, including the 3 bar map sensor, msd ignition and coil. the buyer would basicly just have to install and turn the key because it is all pre wired for the z. i have over 1600 in the system which i used about 50 hours. everything works great but i'm selling because i need the money. if you are interested make a realistic offer.

on a zx the injectors are triggered by the same SIGNAL GIVEN TO THE COIL WHEN I HOOKED UP MY 6AL I NEEDED THE TACH ADAPTER IN ORDER FOR THE INJECTORS TO BE FIRED. YOU MAY WANT TO CHECK THAT OUT .

just a thought ......if you are using the stock 77 comp make sure you are using the n/a injectors or you will always run rich. if thats not the case and you are using them sorry i didn't help

you shouldn't need the spray at all, if it is a hks 2mm it will have a soft coating on it that will keep it from moving, that is if it isn't used, as i talked about earlier don't worry if you torque it over 60 foot pounds. just make sure that you followed the correct pattern and they are all the same torque . oh ya and have fun.

i have my arp studs torqued at 85 foot pounds, do to the fact that you are useing a metal head gasket you can torque it to what you want. the metal head gasket will only conpress so far. the reason that you torque a factory gasket to 55 is that it will smush. hope i helped

if your using stock injectors there shouldn't be any problems firing it up... you would have to ajust the fuel for the 500-1500 range but you should then be able to idle . If you don't have an air fuel meter on the car i wouln't try to do any of this. also make sure the base set up is correct. Question are you trying to run multipoint or semi sequential that information is also needed to help you out

personaly i run a msd 6a it was quick and easy to set up connects directly to the haltech so there is not need for the tach adapter... or you can use the haltech ignitor if you down load the programs off the net you will only see a few of the features because most of them are used on line only.

i also have the haltech e6k in my 280zxt i have the 82/83 distributor with internal cas if you have any question on how to set up the computer setting just write back the e6x and e6k are basically the same set up

if i had the choice to do it over , i'd buy the nismo!!! the main reason is that they are both ajustable but the one from nissan is set every 2*s so it makes it very easy to use without modification to make them work. hope you have fun.

just so you know for an l28 the hks sproket looks nothing like the pictures above. they don't have degree markings at all , they don't even line up with the #1 hole. the sprocket is not painted . i'm sorry if i seem negative at all. I personally have one installed in my turbo model and love it. they are alittle expensive but very well built. There will be no possible way to strip a bolt because it uses 4 studes and nuts with lock washer. well hope that no ones mad at me. just didn't want you to think that they sent you the wronge part. by the way alamo auto sport in arlington tx sells them. The owners name is brice

i don't know if anyone else did this but i used fiberglass layed over the dash. 3 to 4 layers sanded and then bondod over to get it smooth. i then used rocker pannel spray to get the texture. after that i used primer and paint----so far it held up in texas heat. Installed 1 1/2 years ago. just thought i would through that in.

Would like to help zfantastic set up his haltech if he will respond.

i have a question since we are talking about timing. i have advanced my cam and brought the power band down from 3000-6000 to 2000-5500. it gave the car a great amount of torque. But anyway the question that i have is what advance are you running?????? right now i have my car at 20* at idle 30 at full advance 2500rpms and under boost i have 21*. I have set the timing lower at boost say 15 but i have no power there. Compresion is 7:1:1 . Any help would be welcomed.

when i got the hks sproket i looked at it and your right they don't line up the same at all. Basically what i did is turn the sproket to a position that gave me room to move it left and right. laid them on top of one another and transfored the timing marks so that i then had a starting position. As for the termostate it is in at this time. the reason that i had been over heating was i advanced the cam to far. the car runs good at stock position but i think i would like alittle more pull so i'm going to advance it some and have fun. thanks for your help

the headgasket is also the hks 2mm and i have the arp studs torqued at 85 so that should not be an issue. i haven't had a chance to check the cam timing yet but i will do that this afternoon.

i have the hks ajustable cam sprocket i know that it is dead center when i started but i have advanced the cam alittle more. i think that is the problem....i'm going to go back to stock timing and see if thats the problem.

i bought the 270/260 cam and have had a good pull from 2500 up the problem i have is my temp now sits at 195 while driving and around 210-220 at idle. I have taken the thermastate out all together because it overheats with it in. has anyone ever used this cam...........if so what was you experience and what settings are you using. Any help would be great. right now i have the cam alittle advanced could this be the problem?

thanks for all the help right now i have had the car set to 20 at idle advance to 30 cruse at 36 and under boost 17 seems to run good but i think i'm still a couple degrees off on the cam setting so thats what i'm working on now. the card said that intake opens 25 degrees btdc and for degreeing that it is 5* btdc so i'm a little confused. is 5 degrees on the cam 25 at the crank? If any one could help explain i would like the help. All timing marks are dead on during the rebuild so i know where the exact tdc is. once again thanks for any help

thanks for the help If i understand you correctly i should stay at 15 degrees under boost? I'm running the large turbo cam from Motorsport auto (270/260) duration. No i'm not running race fuel just super unleaded. T3 with only 8 psi from the internal wastegate. If possible is there anyone that knows what the stock advance is for the turbo models.......... I'm having fun with the set up but i'm not sure how far away from stock that i am. Thanks again for the help.

I just wanted to know what anyone else is running. At this time i have my base timing at 20 btdc-30 at full advance and 15 under boost. I am only running stock boost at the time. Just wondering if under boost there is a possibility that a little more advance would help say 18 or so. I'm still working on the setup do to the cam that i'm using( msa 270/260). It is a ruff idle which i expected but loves to pull untill you say stop. I welcome any ideas even from those with any other standalone systems. Thanks for you help.